Thank you everyone for the assistance. I will be attempting this job very soon. Wish me luck. I will try to create a thread on this job with pics when done.

 

This is a great thread. I have the 96 T&C 3.3 which has the domestic engine in it, all the engines made by mitsubishi are mounted in the timing assembly & are a giant pain to get to. Your mechanic might think all chrysler mini vans are like that, but they are not. I used the guide mentioned above & it took less than an hour in my driveway. Thanks for the great posts you guys!

 

Tizzy1 method is awsome, I just did the water pump today, litteraly took 5seconds to remove the pump

I used a 24inch prybar from harbor freight, put the angled tip against the tension bolt and then pushed against the frame done,

on the other hand, after removing the 5 bolts holding the pump to the engine, the pump would not budge, I then thought the gasket was stuck, but I could turn the metal mounting base easily, finally after spinning the pully bracket around (spins easily no binding) it slide out, anyone see the problem,

oh yeah, van temp ran at 1 tick below the mid, no noise(there was noise for 2 days in january, I figured it was the p/s pump since is was cold out) the only problem was a marble size wet snot ball hanging off the bottom

glad I changed it, and while I was in there I changed the belt, tensioner, idel pully too, I got 2 gallons of coolant out from draing the rad

replacement is all metal

 

id rather a 3.3 0r 3.8 WP anyday over a 3.0L

hard to believe that pump pushed any water at all

 

yeah I know a 3.0 really sucks but the best part is the timing belt drives the water pump on the 3.0 so when I chaanged mine i just replaced that belt as well