Firstly, the calipers have no sliding pins or mechanism at all. Please re-think this feature of your commentary. The caliper just attaches to slide pins that are in the Caliper Adapter Bracket...by 2 cap screws that thread into the ends of the Caliper ADAPTER slide pins. The caliper also sits on and is supportably/guided by the Caliper ADAPTER BRACKET.
Secondly, the brake pads are located on the Adapter Bracket and only move a small amount to take up the wear on the pad and disc itself and slightly separate for free running....pushed apart by the rotating disc. We are only talking about a small amount of movement in total here and even less for the brake pads themselves. The Caliper maintains the pads in their position on the adapter and applies brake force via the piston inside itself.
Never the less...freedom of movement of the brake pads in the 'adapter bracket' is essential one would think. Maybe heat builds up on the inner pad/disc interface because the inside disc backing plate restricts airflow, whereas the outer disc surface is open for all to see. Don't be deceived by a good looking outer disc surface. Mine looked fine but the inside surface was crap. Have the inner disc surface inspected and be mindful that there are revised adapter brackets and pad clips available and installation time is very small...two bolts per side.
These notes refer to the 08 SXT and maybe later models are different.

 

You are quite mistaken. Please see the patent info and tech articles below. All floating brake caliper mechanisms with a single piston I've worked on from 1980 to present use a sliding pin mechanism for self-centering. Take a look at any hard parts listing and you will see the sliding pins. To state there are none would be incorrect. My '08 uses this design and indeed has a pair of sliding pins on each front and rear system.

The '08 SXT sliding caliper mechanism is not unique. It involves a sliding pin mechanism which holds the caliper while allowing it to slide laterally. The caliper restraint pins screw into the brackets on all designs I've seen. This sliding or self-centering mechanism allows the inner and outer pad forces to remain fairly even on the rotor despite wear and having a single piston. A rubber boot keeps water from contacting the pin or clearance hole. This system is the same as every single piston domestic car I've owned in the last 30 years. Ford was using this system on Lincoln cars in the early '80's. It was invented by Kelsey Hayes.

edit:

For kicks, I googled "sliding caliper pin mechanism" and found this article which applies to some cars I have raced in the past. Maybe this will help explain what I've been repairing for the last 30 years lol:

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs...rs%20are%20bad

Patent's refer to this as a sliding "caliper guide mechanism". It is indeed a mechanism whereby the caliper floats on pin sliders. The Akebono guide design involves precision metal-to-metal contact with the caliper instead of the metal pins riding in an elastomer bushing. Both mechanisms provide the same caliper float function. In my opinion, the lack of elastomer creates a greater risk of mechanism malfunction due to rust. If the caliper body had stainless sleeves and the pins were stainless, rust would not cause the system to jamb.

http://www.google.co.in/patents/US4311219

 

Please just read all of my previous and do not confuse the Caliper with the Caliper Adapter Bracket; which are two completely separate items. The slide pin holes are in the 'Caliper Adapter Bracket' as previously stated and the pins and rubber boots are located on that part. Again...the Caliper attaches to the ends of the pins via tapped holes in the pins and cap screws through the 'Caliper' ears, which are a feature of the Caliper forging/or casting...this whole assembly, including the brake cylinder, sliding on the pins in the holes of the Adapter Bracket. So slide pins, lubricated slide pin holes, rubber boots and brake pads and clips are all part of the Adapter Bracket.
The parts changed on my vehicle were the Adapter Brackets, slide pins, slide pin boots, pad clips and pads...together with ruined brake discs (still appearing fine on the visible outside). Since the pistons in the Calipers were not seized the Caliper sub assemblies were re-used. All of this only applying to the rear brakes since the front ones had been serviced a few thousand km. earlier and new front discs installed. At that time the rear brakes were serviced also but no discs removed.
The brakes work fine now. As good as when a new vehicle. As stated previously, I don't do enough mileage to test for longevity of service. I had all of the replaced parts returned to me and forwent the core rebate...whatever that means.
Be aware that revised rear brake pad clips should be used with the revised rear Caliper Brackets according to the bulletin in the box.
All in all I wonder if any of this would have come about if the rear discs had been changed when chattering started...together with associated parts and lubing. Considering the very low mileage on my vehicle.
This has been the only problem that we have experienced with this vehicle in 6 years, apart from minor recalls that we had not noticed any issue with. We don't do a high mileage so consumption is not an issue for us but we do tow a small trailer and have the tow package. So all in all we will probably replace it with a third Caravan when the time comes. Nice to be able to carry large stuff and occasionally more folk. Even if parking is more difficult, hmm...maybe get the reversing cameras next time.

 

Teenagers with minimal mechanical skill who repair mountain bikes, motorcycles or cars with disc brakes know the difference between a caliper and a caliper adapter bracket. I can't understand why you are stuck on that basic concept.


The brake patent link I posted should have cleared up the confusion you had about floating caliper mechanisms that utilize sliding pins (also known as pin sliders). It appears to me you have not read it so the confusion remains.

 

Yes - by reading the thread and from what I have been told - certainly an issue with Caliper sticking - when this happens its less than 200 km to fully worn out brakes... ONLY 1500.00 to repair - What a deal! I will additionally be writing head office - all the vehicles I have owned - never had to replace brakes- period - let alone twice a year! Buyer Beware - once warrenty expires - your on your own

 

I posted my experience today - this is my 3rd set due to caliper sticking (faulty) but dealer taking no responsibility - cost 1500.00 to replace - good bye dodge

 

Pads wearing out at 33K miles (41K km) is not so unusual. The rotors may have gotten scored due to letting the pads down to the backing plate. That is not the fault of the rotor. I check my pads for thickness every 6 months and my rotors don't get damaged. The pad thickness can be seen by simply looking in the wheel cooling holes, it takes 1 minute. A pad replacement is about $80 at any muffler and brake shop.


But you paid $1500 to get two rotors and 1 set of pads replaced?????????? Yikes, that is Boeing Jet or Ferrari Race Team pricing.


The problem is with the place you are taking your van for service.


The Bendix rotors are $19 each at rockauto and about $10 more local and a set of pads with lifetime unlimited free replacement warranty is worth $40, even less at autozone. This totals under $100 and the job takes about 1 hour which should be $80 labor or less.


Where in god's name did the other $1300 go...perhaps for 10 years worth of donuts for the shop?


I would advise you to find a male to take your van for service. I feel sorry for you and my daughters too.

 

Reply to MMP 2010.


I have had the same rear brake problem (08 Caravan) and, on changing the rear discs, the inside face of the discs were severely burned and pitted. No way the surfaces could provide a decent interface with the brake pads. I changed the discs and also the brake adapter plates, which hold the slider pins and for which there were revised components....(see my earlier post for component part No. information). I was ready to trade the vehicle, having put up with brake vibration for quite a while and mileage was only 44,000km.(26,400 miles) To this point the repair has been good....new rear discs, new pads, new bracket adapter and pins and 'new design' pad clips. Maybe reaming out the slider holes in the old bracket adapter would have effected a repair but I was fed up with the situation having had a complete brake service at the dealer just a few thousand km earlier. So noticing the revised adapter plates and clips at the dealer, I decided to try them. I re-used the same calipers which had only 44,000 km on them. The point is that we don't do a lot of mileage these days so the longevity of the repair is not proven. Otherwise we love this van and it is very reliable and we would have hated to loose it. But, brakes need to be at least decent. 33,000 miles is a lot more than 41,000km by the way. My brakes lasted 15 to 20,000 km.(9,000 to 12,000 miles) from new vehicle, before the vibration started. Pretty meager mileage.
Again check out my earlier posts for rear brake revised part numbers and the revised clips are required.


In Fact...Instruction Sheet 68192439AA......... 04/03/2012
New adapter 68192437AA
New pad spring 68192438AA
The instruction sheet with part numbers came with the replacement brackets from my Dodge dealer.


The instruction sheet outlines the repair and may be able to be Googled.
For the time being the brakes are working as good as they did when new and have been for 6 months.

 

@ LSC man...funny you should mention mountain bike disc brakes. My calipers are leaking. 140.00 bucks to replace on one axle not including rotor.

 

Excellent post....except for referring to your rear rotors as "drums". When the inner surface of the rotor burns to a crisp and the outer surface doesn't, the caliper assembly is clearly not floating on the pins, as designed.