I don't think it speed related.
In the Chilton's manual it said most problems can be traced to bad electrical connections or leaking vacuum lines. How can you tell if you have a bad vacuum line? Can I pull the connectors off the PCM with out screwing it up?

Thanks,
Bob

 

If you had a vacuum leak you would have high idle.

 

The question is how do I find out the cause?

Thanks,
bob

 

Was the ck engine light ever on before the tune up?

 

Hows Idle? and what about when u give it gas in park/neutral?
and does it dies out/runs rough ONLY after you drive it?

 

If a good tech gets his hands on it he doesn't necessarily need codes.

Data stream info from the scan tool can be a huge help. Unfortunately we can't see here what is going on. You gave no indication that they did ANY vacuum or fuel pressur test...or any other test for that matter. Plus the fact that the people who worked on it threw tune up parts at it, now they tell you that you need a PCM doesn't give me much faith in them. I know diagnostics is not a cut and dry thing but...That sounds like repair chain amatuer BS to me. Take it somewhere else.

 

Thanks everyone for all your help! Ended up being the EGR valve. Took the vacuum line off the EGR and plugged it up with a screw, basically cutting of the EGR valve. Van runs great! Going to run it for a few days like this and if it is still working we will replace the EGR valve.

Thanks again,
Bob

 

it is great that you posted your findings instead of just never posting again like some people do. in this case, your good gesture of thanking people just saved you some money. here's why: if you took off the vacuum line from the egr and now it runs great, it doesn't mean your egr valve is bad. you may very well have an egr solenoid problem. the vacuum hose that you removed sucks up the egr plunger to allow exhaust into the intake. it is controlled, it is not supposed to have vacuum all the time. your egr valve may very well be fine, don't buy one just yet. I have a factory service manual for 1998, includes 3.3 (thankfully my 2.4 does not have an egr.) I will scan and send you .pdf files tomorrow morning, but send me a private message with your email address. this forum does not allow me to post scans above a certain size and I can never make a readable page with the restrictions. I will try, but an email to me with your email will guarantee you get the pages......DON'T buy the egr just yet, I seriously doubt you need a new egr, it may need a cleaning, but what you describe does not point to a bad egr.

 

Thanks Mirageman,
Already bought the EGR Valve and it comes with the new Solenoid, have not installed yet
but will let you know how it turns out.

Bob

 

probably cost you a bit. well, since you'd have to take out the egr and solenoid anyway, you might want to try cleaning them and testing that solenoid first before replacing. if you can get the old ones to work, or if all you need is the solenoid, you should be able to return the new parts if they haven't been used. I'd be more than happy to send you those pdfs if you pm me your email if you'd like.