ok I found fusible links inside the harness behind the dataa link and behind the relay block. Im not getting fire to any except 1 and its red all others no fire. no fire to the pcm no fire to the coil pack, someone suggested it may have an alarm system that I was unaware of. did caravans come stock with an alarm system? If not, does anyone have anymore suggestions Im getting cabin fever this is my only vehicle. and its nt worth trying to get a 3000 dollar wire harness. please please help

 

get a wiring diagram and a $5 harbor freight volt meter and start testing circuits.

so basically your saying the van ran fine then suddenly without any warning it just quit?

you didn't or someone else didn't do a thing that could be a problem say like install an aftermarket stereo or replaced a trans or stuff like that?

 

correct it just quit. I did put a stereo in like 9 or 10 years ago and its the same stereo. but nothing else this van and been a perfect ride except a little rust here and there. but I was driving it home when it just died, and woulod not restart its turning fine but no start, and I just replaced the ignition switch yesturday

 

Ok no juice to the coil pack and some other stuff regaurdless if the key is on or off. I have been racking my brain so let me ask this question. If the Altenator blew a diode would the engine start and run or if it blew a diode while driving would it just die? the reason I have this question is Im trying to go back to the basics. See my amp or charge gauge would show a discharge when running the air conditioning. so I was wondering if the Altenator went bad would this cause my problems?

 

think about that for a minute... can a car run w/o even having an alternator at all? answer is yes. the diodes function is to convert AC voltage produced by running a wire thru a magnetic field to DC voltage that the car runs on and charges the battery. I race stock cars and my car doesn't even have an alternator.

 

your right on the older vehicles. I didnt know if the newer 90s and up computerized vehicles needed it . as I said I reaching as far as I can for answers. I dont mean to be a pain, sorry

 

so, have you aquired a wiring diagram yet? do you have a volt meter?

did you think maybe the blown fuse and no run has some kind of correlation? when a fuse blows, that means excessive current was traveling thru the wires. maybe you had a short which then became an open and that's your problem. IDK i'm just guessing since I can't see, feel, hear, test your vehicle in person.

have you tried to retreive codes from the PCM (engine computer)? does the check engine light come on when you try to start the vehicle?

 

No I didnt retreave codes as the battery went dead towing it home with the flashers on and I disconnected the battery to charge it. and did not think I could get the codes anymore. I just was reading and found out I should take the ground cable of the batteryand put a test light to it and if it lights up I have a short well it did. then it said to unhook the altenator and if the light goes out the altenator is bad. if not then Im to pull each fuse until I find the one that will turn the test light off and that would be the bad curcit. It got to hot on me outside so I will be going back out to run these tests. in a little bit. I sure appreciate your assistence with this problem. Thanks

 

that test does nothing to help you with your problem. IDK why you keep bringing alternator up as it has nothing to do with you no spark condition.

pretty much all fuel injected vehicles will light up on this test as there is always a parasitic draw with computer keep alive memories. all your doing it testing for draw which really has nothing to do with the engine running.

again, you need a schematic, you need to check which circuits need to have power on them so you can determine if you have power in the appropriate locations.

you also need to disclose what fuse was blown?

 

ok thats fine I a retard when it comes to fuel injection and computer moduals. so I am grasping at straws. thats why I talk about the altenator. as for which fuse it was the ignition fuse in the relay box it was a 15 amp fuse,and the radiator fans fuse. thanks for the info about open circuits as I had no clue I was reading in a haynes repair manual. and this is what they said. so I was trying not to looks so stupid and read up more on it, as for a shcimatic the only one I have in in the haynes repair manual and it doesnt seem complete or I dont know how to read it one of the two; really am looking for that stick of dynomite. I feel like an idiot!!!