1995 caravan SE 3.3L automatic. will turn over wont run, NO spark!!
reading a schematic is like reading a road map... or are you a GPS that talks and tells you where to go instead of figuring out your own route??? 
get out the schematic and start with the basics, do you have 12.6 volts at the battery?, do you have 12.6 volts at the ignition fuse, do you have 12.6 volts at the ASD relay, do you have 12.6 volts at the fuel pump relay and so on
12.6 volts is the voltage of a fully charged battery.
get out the schematic and start with the basics, do you have 12.6 volts at the battery?, do you have 12.6 volts at the ignition fuse, do you have 12.6 volts at the ASD relay, do you have 12.6 volts at the fuel pump relay and so on
12.6 volts is the voltage of a fully charged battery.
I checked ALL OF THE FUSES AND RELAYS in the relay box on the fenderwell behind the battery they all show 12.3 same as battery. figure as its not ran in over a month it may be alittle low on power since been trying to start it lol.
did some further tests on the crank sensor. found that im only getting 8.3volts to the sensor and check the contenuity of the plug and it is not zeroing out, so Not positive but think I may have started to locate the short. 
Last edited by Donniecaravan; Sep 20, 2011 at 10:15 PM.
well I see no more posts on further advise so this a dead end. like most professionals and shops all talk but when it gets to it they leave ya hangin oh well figures! thanks the the tiny be of nothing. Ill not come to this forum anyfurther.
What you need to do is find someone with a DRB3 and look at the cam and crank under no start. The crank sensor is a 8 volt sensor not a 12.v or a 5v. I and some members can only do so much, being on a computer and not able to give you the hands experience. It just as hard for the members as well. I'm sorry you feel that way, But on your post on 9/20/11 I thought you may have found something.
WOW someone is reading. thanks for the direction on the scanner first of all let me say I am in lower alabama and noone has the scanner1 or 3 only 2. I looked in to buying one but im now broke after changing the cam sensor cranck sensor and the ecm and the ignition switchand coil pack. when I did the reading with my multimeter as stated I got 8 volts to the crank sensor but when i checked the ground for continuity the meter did not zero out . I tested on a wire to see if it was my machine but its fine should be its new too, I have not checked the cam sensor to see if it was getting powr yet as we have had bad weather. but is on my adjenda for tomorrow, I dontknow Im frustrated as I said before and I do understand that there is only so much you can do and inform me over the computer. however when I posted time before last I was waiting to see if that indicated something other than a bad ground, and waited and waited. so I hope you see my frutrations as for bringin it to your shop mopar seems kunda redundent arent you in california. Im in alabama little to far to attempt to tow.
Check your wiring harness were your cam senor plugs in mine had internal corrosion on the harness side. I replaced the sensor and when I unplugged it the rubber connection broke off the harness you could not see the corrosion as it was inside the wiring. At the same time I replaced the crank sensor and found the same corrosion but not as bad as it was still making a connection. Could try the wiggle test on both these sensors.
Did some more checking today and there is no power going to the coil pack. I checked the plugs on the coil pack the cam sensor and the crank sensor as well as the large plug on the harness which bolts into the firewall. there is no corrosion. I also took all of the relays to the parts house they checked them out and said they were all good. needless to say we are stumped. if weather holds out I will untape more of the harness and see if I can locate any bad wires. this is the most bazzarr thing I have every see and other have not seen this either.



