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06 caravan brake bleeding

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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Default 06 caravan brake bleeding

Changed the front pads yesterday and must have got air into the lines somehow since pedal went all the way to the floor. Have tried to bleed brakes and its a little better but no where it should be. Do I need a scan tool ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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You compressed the caliper back in without opening bleeding screw, right?
that shouldnt create air into the system.
Did you cut the rotor or bought new rotors? and how does the rotors look?
does the car stop? or just soft pedal.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by steak59
You compressed the caliper back in without opening bleeding screw, right?
that shouldnt create air into the system.
Did you cut the rotor or bought new rotors? and how does the rotors look?
does the car stop? or just soft pedal.

Yep, just opened MC. I wouldn't have though so either. Used existing rotors they looked good. Ran it over to a local shop and they thought master cylinder is going out ( just got back )
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by chr_edw
Yep, just opened MC. I wouldn't have though so either. Used existing rotors they looked good. Ran it over to a local shop and they thought master cylinder is going out ( just got back )
Try bring the rotors to local part store and resurface them. Most of them time when you "pad slap" a car, it leaves a crappy soft pedal feel because the pad is not seating on the rotors surface correctly.
And what brand/type of pad did you use, some of the cheaper quality pad can also leave a soft pedal feel too.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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I changed front rotors, pads and calipers on our 2001 a couple of weeks ago. I have a little tool that is basically just a check valve you put on the end of the tubing for the bleed screw and using that, I just pumped the pedal a couple of times, refilled the MC and repeated until I had gotten all of the old fluid out of the system. It was really no different than the old way of bleeding.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mfahey
I changed front rotors, pads and calipers on our 2001 a couple of weeks ago. I have a little tool that is basically just a check valve you put on the end of the tubing for the bleed screw and using that, I just pumped the pedal a couple of times, refilled the MC and repeated until I had gotten all of the old fluid out of the system. It was really no different than the old way of bleeding.
Thats how I did it also. Guess I could try having the rotors re-surfaced, but there is a huge amount of travel in the pedal.

I got tired of messing with it, so I had wife take it to shop and they thought the master cylinder was going out. It it possible that is just bad luck going out now?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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I had this happen a bunch of times, when you push the caliper pistons back, it almost flips the lip seal in the master cylinder and all of the sudden you have no pedal. You most likely do need a master cylinder. Just bad luck is all.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Tizzy1
I had this happen a bunch of times, when you push the caliper pistons back, it almost flips the lip seal in the master cylinder and all of the sudden you have no pedal. You most likely do need a master cylinder. Just bad luck is all.
Thanks a bunch. I pulled up a how to, and it don't look to bad to replace. Sure as hell not 375 like that place quoted.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 12:53 PM
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Just took off old master cylinder ( easy as pie ) - Do the replacements come with the reservoir ? Some were not pictured with it so I could not tell ?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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If you buy an OEM one, yes, it comes with bottle. Aftermarket one, some do, and some dont. Ask ur parts guy, they will know.

To check master cylinder, Simply turn off the car, pump the brake a Few times to deplete the power assist vacuum. Does the pedal turn hard? If it still sinks to the floor, then the master cyln is done.
If it turns hard, Then is probably in the brake pad and rotor. I would try cutting rotor, and drive it few miles and see if it change. most part store charge like $10 per cut.

Doing a Master cylinder is not difficult, But it could get VERY messy.
 

Last edited by steak59; Oct 16, 2011 at 05:13 PM.
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