I flush with a garden hose to get all the fluid out and then fill the system with distilled water and then drain. This will get most of the tap water out. 4 gallons will do the last flush. I get distilled water at $0.50 per gallon.

Drain the system and then refill with water, then use a garden hose to continually fill the system with the engine running and the drain valve open. The heater should be set on high heat. This will remove all the old fluid and it will be replaced with water. Do this for a few minutes, then shut the engine off and let it drain. Then close the drain valve and fill with distilled water. Start the engine and run it for a couple of minutes and then drain. This will remove most of the tap water. By now there will only be some water in the system and all the old antifreeze will be out.

Fill with 8.1 qts. of 100% HOAT antifreeze or 2 gallons and then top off with distilled water. You will have a 50/50 mix or close to it.

 

Does the over flow jug count as part of the capacity or do I have to add another qt or so of 50/50 to the overflow?

That is not good because then I would need to buy more then 2 jugs of antifreeze. I think this is a reason people buy Prestone all make/models because it can be bought for 9 bucks a jug of non dilluted, after rebate.

 

Hoat is the only antifreeze that is recommended by MOPAR, however others have used OAT or DEX but I do not recommend it. Do not mix different antifreeze, even the ones that state universal, as this can cause major problems, such as jelling and silicate can percipitate out and can damage the seals on the pump.

I am not sure if the overflow bottle is included in the 16.3 qts. I would just put a pint in the overflow bottle first with a pint of distilled water and put the rest in the radiator. If it is not included it would give you a 46/54 mix which would only slightly change the boil and freeze points.

I use HOAT in my truck and I keep a gallon jug mixed to 50/50 around to top off either vehicle as needed.

I noticed that it was not mentioned earlier, but Zerex GO-5 is HOAT and is much cheaper than MOPAR. It is a light yellow in color and MOPAR is red but is still the same antifreeze. NAPA may not have it in stock but can get it. The last I bought was about $12 per gallon.

 

Good information--thanks

 

Let me know why my thought process is wrong.

You know I want to flush but don't know if it is the best call because it seems i would put more tap water in system then exists. Because after draining the first time, followed by putting in distilled water, the tap water that goes to the rear heater and rear lines is still in there.

Pressure would have to be exerted on the tap water to push it forward from rear heater and lines to the front to move it upward to to enter the engine area.

Should i just drain 2 or 3 qts of what is in the system and tehn add the same amount of antifreeze. Another way, but i dont know if it would work. Take a pressure tester and pump out as much fluid of system, as long as the pressure would push it from the rear.

Any thoughts

 

Yes, the pressure to move the coolant in the lines and heater core is with the engine running. This will move the coolant out and allow the water to take its place, but you need to have the drain open and continually adding water to make this happen, otherwise you will just be diluting the old coolant.

The reason to remove the tap water is because it contains minerals that can react with the fresh antifreeze and by adding the distilled water and then running the engine will move the tap water into the engine. It will dilute the tap water but you will get enough out when you drain it for it to be OK. The engine run with the distilled water is a short run, 30 seconds to a minute, then drain as much as will come out.

If you do as I have suggested you will get the best results.

If you do not want to do it the way I have suggested, then remove both heater lines from the engine and apply light air pressure, less than 15lbs. and blow the coolant out of the heaters and lines. This way will still leave some of the old coolant in the system.

 

Thanks for time that you have offered me.

I want to do the way you suggested, i just didn't think that pouring in distilled with engine running would would have enough force flowing to push the old stuff out of the rear heater and lines forward and upward as it leaves under the engine and up the firewall.

Is it because the engine is running and therefore the impellar in the pump that pulls the liquid forward from the rear?

 

Please see question above and also help me with this question.

Once i start pouring the distilled water down into radiator, to end the final flush, how will I know when the tap water ends and the distilled water begins coming out of the the radiator to consummate the end of the flush?

 

Close the drain after the tap water flush and fill the cooling system with distilled water. After you get the distilled water topped off then run the engine and the tap water will be pushed out of the heaters buy the water pump and into the engine and radiator where it will be diluted. This will only take 1/2 minute to 1 minute, then shut the engine off and drain. There will be a small amount of diluted tap water left in the system but not enough to make any differance. Close the drain and then put in the 2 gallons of antifreeze.

 

I guess I will need about 8 gallons of distilled?

thanks for all the info. so far.