2005 GC stalled while driving - won't restart
Van hesitated a few times like it was running out of gas, then just stalled. Each time I tried to restart it, it would turn over for a fraction of a second and then stall again. Gas gauge showed about 1/4 of a tank, but I've had problems with that before. Assumed the gauge was acting up and that I was out of gas. Put about 4 gallons in it, but no change. Tried it again a few hours after it was towed, but battery was pretty much drained. I was suprised by that, because it still had plenty of charge when I was originally trying to get it started. I'm pretty handy with repairs, but weak with diagnosis. Any help would be appreciated.
Check for Codes would be the first step of diagnose.
It is possible you got a bad fuel pump too. Try use Starting fluids with help of an assistance crank the engine with 1/4 throttle while u spray starting fluid or brake cleaner into the throttle body.
It is possible you got a bad fuel pump too. Try use Starting fluids with help of an assistance crank the engine with 1/4 throttle while u spray starting fluid or brake cleaner into the throttle body.
Thanks guys. I think I read that you can't use the ignition switch and check engine light to read the codes on these vans anymore. Is that true? Also, where do I get access to the throttle body to spray the starting fluid? Do I remove the big inlet hose from the air cleaner housing?
To check for codes turn the key on and off 3 times, on the 3rd time on leave it on. Codes will appear in the odometer. Be prepared to write the codes down, will say done when all codes have been displayed.
Take the filter out is the easiest way to get starting fluid in while someone else is cranking the engine. Only spray a little and be careful if the engine backfires, you could have flames in your face.
Take the filter out is the easiest way to get starting fluid in while someone else is cranking the engine. Only spray a little and be careful if the engine backfires, you could have flames in your face.
Thanks for the help. Got the codes and tried the starting fluid. The check engine light had already been on for over a year (P0420 Cat), so I don't know how new any of these codes are. Here are the other codes that I found.
P0128 (thermostat rationality)
P0404 (EGR position sensor performance)
P0461 (Fuel level sensor #1 performance)
P0406 (EGR position sensor high)
The starter fluid worked. It ran for a few seconds, but wouldn't restart.
I got a little more information. Couldn't hear the fuel pump when my wife turned the car to ON. Not sure how loud it should be, but I couldn't hear anything. Do I have to get under the van near the tank to hear it? I was also able to check the Fuel Pump relay at the IPM. It appears to be working properly, applying voltage to the fuel pump pin for a few seconds when the key is turned ON.
I'm concerned that it's the fuel pump. Is there any other way to check it other than hearing it? Do the codes or starter fluid check provide any insight?
P0128 (thermostat rationality)
P0404 (EGR position sensor performance)
P0461 (Fuel level sensor #1 performance)
P0406 (EGR position sensor high)
The starter fluid worked. It ran for a few seconds, but wouldn't restart.
I got a little more information. Couldn't hear the fuel pump when my wife turned the car to ON. Not sure how loud it should be, but I couldn't hear anything. Do I have to get under the van near the tank to hear it? I was also able to check the Fuel Pump relay at the IPM. It appears to be working properly, applying voltage to the fuel pump pin for a few seconds when the key is turned ON.
I'm concerned that it's the fuel pump. Is there any other way to check it other than hearing it? Do the codes or starter fluid check provide any insight?
Check your fuel pressure. If your pump is not pumping (or priming) then I would think you would lose pressure.
This is just an idea.
This is just an idea.
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As stated, checking your fuel pressure with a pressure gauge at the fuel rail is the best test for a pump. Should see 55psi +/- 5. Parts stores will loan you one. Can't get there? No gauge? If you have the 3.8 ltr engine and maybe the 3.3 you have a fuel test port on the fuel rail. Crank the engine then stop. Now depress the plunger in the port. Fuel should spray out and not just dribble.
If you have no pressure you should verify power is getting to the pump before changing it. Remove the fuel pump relay and jumper contacts 30 and 87 on the relay panel. Pump should turn on right away, keys in your pocket. You can check for power at the pump connector. Pos probe on contact #4 (power from relay) and neg probe on contact #1 (ground). If it's there with the key at start or the relay jumpered and the pump doesn't spin when it's connected, the pump is toast.
An old trick. Smack the bottom of the fuel tank with a mallet while cranking. It will sometimes free up a stubborn pump.
If you have no pressure you should verify power is getting to the pump before changing it. Remove the fuel pump relay and jumper contacts 30 and 87 on the relay panel. Pump should turn on right away, keys in your pocket. You can check for power at the pump connector. Pos probe on contact #4 (power from relay) and neg probe on contact #1 (ground). If it's there with the key at start or the relay jumpered and the pump doesn't spin when it's connected, the pump is toast.
An old trick. Smack the bottom of the fuel tank with a mallet while cranking. It will sometimes free up a stubborn pump.
Last edited by Cougar41; Jan 22, 2012 at 03:10 AM.
Spot on with the idea...as well as cougar. Check for tbe pressure and before declaring the fuel pump as the problem check for power at the fuel pump. This will verify if the fuel pump is dead and gone.
I'm having trouble finding the fuel test port (3.8L). The service manual shows it just inboard of the ignition coil, right where the power steering resevoir is. Finally found the fuel rail, but don't see a port on it anywhere.
Last edited by rmcrawfo; Jan 22, 2012 at 12:56 PM.


