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What oil filter if switching to synthetic?

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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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Default What oil filter if switching to synthetic?

I switched our 2007 GC / 3.3L over to Castrol Edge synthetic in December. First time running synthetic in the van. At the time, I used a Dodge oil filter in it. I have read that any better quality oil filter can be used with synthetic, and so I didn't think to ask the question at the time. But I'm coming up to the next oil change interval and thought I'd throw it out there for comment... i know there's great debate on synthetic versus dyno, or which brand is better... this is a thread on the oil filter specifically. Is the factory Dodge filter a good filter to use with synthetic? Should I be using a different filter? I noticed Mobil 1 seems to have a good filter from the very little i have read...

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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 01:44 AM
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An endless debate, they even make filters for synthetics now

http://www.nfvmc.com/platinumnapafilter

For some good discussions, go here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

If you stick with a decent filter you should be all set.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by blknblu
An endless debate, they even make filters for synthetics now
... yes I know. One only needs to do a little Googling to see there's no end in sight. I'm more curious about what the members here have to say and in my case more specifically about the Dodge filter we buy at the dealership. As for BITOG, I always find there's too much information there. Don't get me wrong, it's a totally great website and the answer is likely there, but I'm not looking to spend years with monks worshipping, studying and embracing all that is oil. At least, senility is still a ways off for me...
 

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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 02:25 PM
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If you like, here are a few thoughts to consider about modern oil filters.

There is no such thing as an oil filter designed specifically for use with synthetic motor oil. Marketing may have you believe otherwise, but, it’s not true. However, 100% synthetic micro-glass oil filters capture more contaminants and do so longer than traditional paper/cellulose oil filters. And since we know that synthetic motor oil in general lasts longer without breaking down, it makes since to use a modern tech oil filter made out of 100% synthetic media that can keep our synthetic oil cleaner, longer. Plus we do know that the resins in traditional paper oil filters do break down over time, which makes them less than ideal for extended use. For this reason, the marketers may state that their synthetic oil filter is for use with synthetic motor oil even though the synthetic oil filter is not custom tailored for synthetic lube per say, they’re just higher quality oil filters that can more effectively match the extended life capabilities of many synthetic motor oils found on the market today.

In addition, the automakers are recommending longer oil change intervals regardless of the type of oil used. 5k, 7.5k, 10k and beyond are now common oil change intervals. So if one is changing oil less, why not step up to a higher quality oil filter.

Just know that 100% synthetic micro-glass oil filters flow better, filter better, and last longer than traditional paper/cellulose oil filters. For these reasons, they’re a good idea to use no matter what type of motor oil one uses.

Here’s a few 100% synthetic micro-glass oil filters currently available.

Napa Platinum
Purolator Synthetic
Amsoil EaO
Royal Purple Extended Life
Donaldson Synteq
 

Last edited by CompSyn; Feb 22, 2012 at 11:17 PM. Reason: N/A
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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The syn filters have 3 times the filtering power , but less oil capacity due to the overall outside same size filter with less oil in the filter !! If your on the turnpike @ 60-70 mph your getting 2/3's less oil flow to cool & lubercate your bearings . Also they cost you 3x's the money to burn up your engine . All that dirt will be comming from all those parts wearing out from oil starvation & lubercation .
My thoughts , use a normal filter & change filters only every 3-4,000 miles as they only hold about 4-6 oz. of oil an save peace of mind & a lot of heart ache due to worry . Oil don't wear out it just gets dirty . Lovvorn
 
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by lovvorn
The syn filters have 3 times the filtering power , but less oil capacity due to the overall outside same size filter with less oil in the filter !! If your on the turnpike @ 60-70 mph your getting 2/3's less oil flow to cool & lubercate your bearings . Also they cost you 3x's the money to burn up your engine . All that dirt will be comming from all those parts wearing out from oil starvation & lubercation .
My thoughts , use a normal filter & change filters only every 3-4,000 miles as they only hold about 4-6 oz. of oil an save peace of mind & a lot of heart ache due to worry . Oil don't wear out it just gets dirty . Lovvorn
It's understandable that for many, this idea is counter intuitive. After all it makes since that if a filter holds more contaminates it therefore must be more restrictive. But with the 100% synthetic micro-glass oil filter, it's simply not the case.

Evidence of this has been provided by actual lubrication engineers who work with various types of lubrication systems every day.

According to them, the engineers, a typical paper/cellulose oil filter is as much as 40% restricted right out of the box. That is 40% of the filter media surface area flows nothing at all. This due to the manufacturing of paper filter media which does little in the way correcting the inconsistencies found throughout.

What they, the engineers, have found with 100% synthetic micro-glass oil filters is that they flow 100% of their media surface area while at the same time holding over 90% more contaminates than the paper/cellulose oil filters and with a service life of 3 times that of the paper.

This is what's commonly referred to as the miracle of science and it's becoming more abundantly available to the automotive and light truck market as where not too long ago it was only available to the commercial/industrial markets.

For some, they could liken this kind of filtering power to overkill. They know that proper maintenance practices with a good paper oil filter and conventional motor oil can and does allow an engine to outlast the vehicle.

For others, they may be willing to invest in to something they perceive as the pinnacle of performance regardless of if it's overkill or not. Perhaps a reason why some of the 203,000 people registered to this forum; to discover ways to extract every last ounce of performance out of their Dodge vehicle.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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Well, I decided to go with the Mobil1 oil filter for this change anyway, and the extra cost be damned! But if I read some of this material correctly, it would appear that the "factory" filters would be just fine with synthetic. And if I'm still keeping the oil change intervals the same, then there should be nothing to be concerned about with those filters... correct?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by maxbaby
Well, I decided to go with the Mobil1 oil filter for this change anyway, and the extra cost be damned! But if I read some of this material correctly, it would appear that the "factory" filters would be just fine with synthetic. And if I'm still keeping the oil change intervals the same, then there should be nothing to be concerned about with those filters... correct?
Yes, you're correct. Just know that if you ever decided you want an oil filter that flows 60% better, filters 90% better, and lasts 3 times longer, you at least know where to look. This is the option we all have.

Remember, according to a study done by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), contaminates in the 2 to 22 micron range are most harmful to your engine. Paper oil filters don't come close to this level of filtration. The 100% synthetic micro-glass does a much better job.

Again, you're right, the paper oil filter will get the job done, but when the micro-glass filters are now so readily available and can be had for an additional $5-to-$6 dollars over a quality paper, the question becomes, why not?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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Use the AMSOIL EAO15 filter. It's longer than the stock one and filters to 17 microns. I have 1 on my 96 with about 240,000 miles on it running 5w-30 Amsoil synthetic oil.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by maxbaby
Well, I decided to go with the Mobil1 oil filter for this change anyway, and the extra cost be damned! But if I read some of this material correctly, it would appear that the "factory" filters would be just fine with synthetic. And if I'm still keeping the oil change intervals the same, then there should be nothing to be concerned about with those filters... correct?
Firstly, some oil manufacturers and oil filter manufacturers are great at confusing/misleading the customer as to what they are getting.
For example, unless you are using the Castrol Edge 0W-30, you are getting a highly refined petroleum based oil, not a real life synthetic. Castrol Edge 0W-30 stands apart from the other Castrol grades. It is made in Germany and from Group lV base stocks (no petroleum base stocks there, just PAO synthetic). The Pour Point for a true synthetic oil will be lower and is an indicator of what's up with the oil. The Pour Point for Castrol 0W-30 per http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store...n_castrol.html is -65F.
GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025 Yes, this is GC, German Castrol! It has gone through an evolution from “the Green”, to “the Gold”, and now to a different name, Castrol Edge SPT 0W-30. Different Name, Same Great Oil. We believe that it is important to stock this very well known and popular motor oil. Simply called "German Castrol by many. German Castrol, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula, has obtained tons of excellent UOAs (used oil analyses), many of which are reported on the internet forum, "Bob is the oil guy". The 0W-30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, "low temperature" formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to -40F. GC is a very thermally stable synthetic motor oil with a cSt of 12(+-) at 100 C. This indicates a "heavier" oil than most 30 weight oils. It is a rather unique oil in that its cSt tends to fall between a 30 and 40 weight oil, though still a 30 weight oil.
Some info from this source on synthetic oils: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
Synthetic motor oils are man made oils from the following classes of lubricants:

Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil
Synthetic esters, etc. = API Group V base oils (non-PAO synthetics, including diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, alkyklated benzenes, etc.)
Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized = API Group III base oils. Chevron, Shell, and other petrochemical companies developed processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high-quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005, production of GTL (gas-to-liquid) Group III base stocks began, the best of which perform much like polyalphaolefin. Group III-base stocks are widely permitted to be marketed as synthetic motor oil with few exceptions where they are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" (for example, Germany).
Next the oil filters. The oil filter manufacturers should be clearly stating the construction of their filters plus their filtration efficiency at 20 microns plus their dirt holding capacity. Some do but others use terms like "high efficiency" and "better efficiency than competitors". That's garbage as far as providing any meaningful information, but they get away with it.
The filter specified for the 2007 is a small one (miniscule really) to begin with. I use Mopar's equivalent to the Motorcraft FL-1a on my 2007 3.8L. This filter is 5" long by 3.5" diameter approximately. It's considered "oversize". I get them for $2.50 each, otherwise I would be using the Fram TG8A which is about the same size but is 99% efficient > 20 microns and has a silicone anti-drainback valve, ie a better quality filter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRM-TG8A/

Although there are oil filters on the market tailored to long oil change intervals (so they say), they tend to be less efficient in some cases in the interest of more dirt holding capacity. For normal oil change intervals, like 6,000 miles, nothing special is required. For longer oil change intervals go with the oversize filter.

If needing more assurance, take a look at an oil filter with a 10,000 mile "stated" oil change interval at http://www.fram.com/products/oil_filters/product_list The Fram Xtended Guard states 97% efficiency and with a silicone anti-drainback valve. The State of California did extended oil change interval tests using this filter back in 2008 per http://www.dtsc.ca.gov/TechnologyDev...il-Filters.cfm

Here's what Mobil 1 says at http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...aqs.aspx#FAQs7
If I go longer between oil change intervals, do I need to change my oil filter more frequently? Or do I need a special filter?

Continue to change your oil filter when you change your engine oil. Special filters or more frequent oil filter changes are not required;, however, some low quality filters may not be capable of protecting your engine throughout an extended oil change interval.
 

Last edited by TJeepman; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:40 PM.
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