How to Trick the Computer into thinking all is good
#1
How to Trick the Computer into thinking all is good
Hey,
I have a 2000 grand caravan. 3.8L FWD
I have Tranny issues.
I got these error codes: P0700
: P1776
The mechanic says that the Clutch Volume Index is very poor on the L/R clutch pack. But I haven't noticed a unusual amount of slipping and I just changed the tranny fluid before doing a 2500km roadie and made sure to put the correct fluid back in.
The fluid that came out did need changing but didn't look overly burnt or smell bad. No out of the ordinary gunk in the bottom of the pan or filter.
The van runs totally fine, I just came back from a 2500km roadie with 4 people and all our crap loaded in it. I only ever had problems on the big hill climbs and the fluid still looks and smells good. not burnt at all. so the slipping can't be that bad...Definitely not bad enough to notice on big hills...
One minute it would be running fine then the next we would get thrown into limp home mode. Luckily I had my code scanner with us and was able to just pull over and erase the errors and just keep going.
In 2500kms I only had to clear the errors 6 times...and all at once, on the same 30kms of very long, steep hills.
Since the last roadie i've done another 1500km with only a few more of the same errors popping up.
We are about to do another 1500km roadie and wondering is there any way to trick the computer into thinking that the clutch pack is fine?
I don't want to have to pull over, there has been a lot of snow where we are going and I know that the route we are about to drive has a lot of very dangerous high probability avalanche areas (in other words...No stopping in these places!)
Please, any help with this problem would be much appreciated.
I know the tranny needs to be replaced... I don't care about that... I'm not doing that... I will happily run it into the ground to the point where tranny truely needs to be replaced
Thanks!
I have a 2000 grand caravan. 3.8L FWD
I have Tranny issues.
I got these error codes: P0700
: P1776
The mechanic says that the Clutch Volume Index is very poor on the L/R clutch pack. But I haven't noticed a unusual amount of slipping and I just changed the tranny fluid before doing a 2500km roadie and made sure to put the correct fluid back in.
The fluid that came out did need changing but didn't look overly burnt or smell bad. No out of the ordinary gunk in the bottom of the pan or filter.
The van runs totally fine, I just came back from a 2500km roadie with 4 people and all our crap loaded in it. I only ever had problems on the big hill climbs and the fluid still looks and smells good. not burnt at all. so the slipping can't be that bad...Definitely not bad enough to notice on big hills...
One minute it would be running fine then the next we would get thrown into limp home mode. Luckily I had my code scanner with us and was able to just pull over and erase the errors and just keep going.
In 2500kms I only had to clear the errors 6 times...and all at once, on the same 30kms of very long, steep hills.
Since the last roadie i've done another 1500km with only a few more of the same errors popping up.
We are about to do another 1500km roadie and wondering is there any way to trick the computer into thinking that the clutch pack is fine?
I don't want to have to pull over, there has been a lot of snow where we are going and I know that the route we are about to drive has a lot of very dangerous high probability avalanche areas (in other words...No stopping in these places!)
Please, any help with this problem would be much appreciated.
I know the tranny needs to be replaced... I don't care about that... I'm not doing that... I will happily run it into the ground to the point where tranny truely needs to be replaced
Thanks!
#2
Can't help with the "trick" but just wanted to pass on some general info about synthetic tranny fluid. Don't recall the details but an article concerning transmission longevity I read stated smell and appearance can't be used as an indication of fluid health anymore. ATF+4 is a synthetic fluid.
Do you think rebuilding it now before it grenades may save you some bucks in the long run or are you just planning on junking the van when it blows?
Do you think rebuilding it now before it grenades may save you some bucks in the long run or are you just planning on junking the van when it blows?
Last edited by Cougar41; 03-03-2012 at 04:03 AM.
#3
does your van have any other problem? do you plan to keep them?
right now, you can probably get away with a rebuild and maybe a new solenoid pack. But if you keep driving is like this, it will blow up, and replacing it with a Reman unit is A LOT more expensive than a rebuild.
a rebuild probably cost you $1500 or less.
but replacing it with a reman unit will cost around $3000.
replacing it with a Junk yard unit, probably $1000-$1500, but 30k miles later, you end up with same problem.
right now, you can probably get away with a rebuild and maybe a new solenoid pack. But if you keep driving is like this, it will blow up, and replacing it with a Reman unit is A LOT more expensive than a rebuild.
a rebuild probably cost you $1500 or less.
but replacing it with a reman unit will cost around $3000.
replacing it with a Junk yard unit, probably $1000-$1500, but 30k miles later, you end up with same problem.
#4
reseting is your big problem here. its telling you that it needs to be fixed properly. you just going to screw it up more. do like steak59 said. fix issue.
does your van have any other problem? do you plan to keep them?
right now, you can probably get away with a rebuild and maybe a new solenoid pack. But if you keep driving is like this, it will blow up, and replacing it with a Reman unit is A LOT more expensive than a rebuild.
a rebuild probably cost you $1500 or less.
but replacing it with a reman unit will cost around $3000.
replacing it with a Junk yard unit, probably $1000-$1500, but 30k miles later, you end up with same problem.
right now, you can probably get away with a rebuild and maybe a new solenoid pack. But if you keep driving is like this, it will blow up, and replacing it with a Reman unit is A LOT more expensive than a rebuild.
a rebuild probably cost you $1500 or less.
but replacing it with a reman unit will cost around $3000.
replacing it with a Junk yard unit, probably $1000-$1500, but 30k miles later, you end up with same problem.
#5
Thanks for the replies but like I said already, really not interested in spending money on this van.
I live in a town where I have no real need for a car, I walk or catch a bus everywhere.
The only reason I bought this car to start with is because it was cheap and I had family coming to visit and buying a car to do sightseeing/a few roadies is cheaper than renting.
Already spent 150 replacing a wheel bearing myself when the wheel almost came off. Didn't want to even spend that on it.
Probably going to sell it real soon, whether its drives or for parts because I don't need a car after this next roadie were doing this Tuesday. If it dies on the roadie, I really have no problem with leaving it where it dies and hitching home...
So, now that is clear. I am just looking for a sensor I can disable or wire I can cut to stop whatever it is in the tranny that is telling the computer that the clutch pack is worn out... The car really doesn't even feel like its even slipping yet. So if I could stop the need for reseting on those 14% hill grades (which is the only time that the warning comes on) that would be amazing!
Thanks
P.s.
Anyone near by Whistler, British Columbia wana buy a van in 2 weeks???
It runs good and will probably have about 250k on it when im done with it. The car itself is in decent condition. Has a new wheel bearing. Only problem it has is a cracked window and that tranny fault.
Any takers?
I live in a town where I have no real need for a car, I walk or catch a bus everywhere.
The only reason I bought this car to start with is because it was cheap and I had family coming to visit and buying a car to do sightseeing/a few roadies is cheaper than renting.
Already spent 150 replacing a wheel bearing myself when the wheel almost came off. Didn't want to even spend that on it.
Probably going to sell it real soon, whether its drives or for parts because I don't need a car after this next roadie were doing this Tuesday. If it dies on the roadie, I really have no problem with leaving it where it dies and hitching home...
So, now that is clear. I am just looking for a sensor I can disable or wire I can cut to stop whatever it is in the tranny that is telling the computer that the clutch pack is worn out... The car really doesn't even feel like its even slipping yet. So if I could stop the need for reseting on those 14% hill grades (which is the only time that the warning comes on) that would be amazing!
Thanks
P.s.
Anyone near by Whistler, British Columbia wana buy a van in 2 weeks???
It runs good and will probably have about 250k on it when im done with it. The car itself is in decent condition. Has a new wheel bearing. Only problem it has is a cracked window and that tranny fault.
Any takers?
#6
I guess you can Dump a bottle of Lucas Trans treatment in if it starts slipping bad. Those things completely change the friction modifier of trans fluid.
Clutch Volume index is atually the computer measuring time it takes for a Clutch to "completely" engaged. giving more friction to the clutch could get you few more miles.
Or you can try GM's Dex III ATF instead of ATF+4, it has less friction modifier, you trans will slam harder into gear.
you can't break something that's alrdy broke, right?
Clutch Volume index is atually the computer measuring time it takes for a Clutch to "completely" engaged. giving more friction to the clutch could get you few more miles.
Or you can try GM's Dex III ATF instead of ATF+4, it has less friction modifier, you trans will slam harder into gear.
you can't break something that's alrdy broke, right?