If you had cam/crank codes but the sensors were okay then perhaps it is the wiring. I know there are certain situations where one of the engine harnesses can melt because it is routed too close to the exhaust. I wonder if the cam and crank sensor wires run in that harness, and whether that could be the issue?

 

not sure if the sensors were OK...guess i should have checked. the cam sensor came out fairly easy but the crank sensor gave me too much trouble and I couldn't extract it as easy so had to tow to mechanic and haven't heard from him all day today..the wires do route past the manifold and i did a preliminary inspection and didn't find any issues...i do have an issue with the positive cable at the battery...I have to keep cleaning the green corrosion from the clamp too often, say 3 times in the past 3 months...

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I used to have issues with my cables on my 01 GC 3.8. I finally got smart...cleaned them well and then sprayed that red sealer all over the connections. I spray a little more on it with every oil change, no more bad connections and my batteries last now.

Have you made sure that you have spark to every cylinder? Seems like the coils on those go bad. If you have an old school timing light you can just snap it over the wire and see if you're getting juice to every cylinder. Running on 5 cylinders will give you lousy power.

 

all electrical connections have been cleaned and sealed..I was thinking of replacing coil as it is cheap...i dont have lousy power any more as it is very hard to start..replaced MAP sensor per suggestion...it seems to have gotten worse ever since I replaced cam sensor..the timing seems out as it is now backpressuring out the intake...

So I have replaced O2 sensor, plugs wires(twice), cam sensor(trouble became worse), crank sensor, MAP sensor and I have taken all connections apart, cleaned them and sealed them with dielectric grease.

Other suggestions: fuel filter, catylatic converter, coil, battery....
So we have decide to take it to a professional as I am at my witts end and I would like them to do a fuel pressure test to rule out the filter, then maybe test the sensors or wiring as the infamous to see if any of them are disfunctional as they have been known to come faulty from factory..I can not drive it so I need to tow it where ever I take it...

Thank you to everyone for your help and I will post the fix as soon as I get one...

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zJWiily,
I would check the wiring harness behind the power steering pump mine did the same thing most likely your 10 pin connector is fired and causing your injector to get wrong signal

 

ZJ
The 2002 to 2005 minivans have had a wire problem on the rear cylinder head, next to the power steering reservoir. The wires are melting inside the harness. You would need to open the harness and inspect. But if you are having misfire codes, First do a compression test.

 

thank you ftamike and master tech. I will let the mechanic know of this issue as I am taking wifey in for early morning surgery..I am hoping this is what I am experiencing as it sounds like an easy fix and cheap enough not to break the bank...the actions and readouts seem to point in the direction of faulty wiring as the only codes coming up lately is the "Intermittent Loss of CMP and CKP"...

Thank you to everyone with all your educated experience. They have all been valid suggestions and we will nail this down and it will be my pleasure to report back as soon as we get the fix...

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If you are just getting a loss of crank or cam signal, I would check out the flex plate.

 

funny u say that. there has been some suspicious clunking on occasional starting that has me concerned. I have heard the torque can loosen from the flexplate, and others have mentioned the flexplate may be cracked which may have an impact on a correct timing reading...I am stopping in at the garage in the morning to advise these issues..

I will definitely post back....

Thanx for the reassurance to my assumption.

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No problem, Keep us updated.