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11+ Pentastar oil change ?s

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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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Default 11+ Pentastar oil change ?s

I love to change the oil in my vehicles, sort of a bonding ritual. I went to pick up oil and a filter and found the filter quite difficult to find. In fact, in the parts manual for the local filters all fields were blank for the 2011 Caravan. A quick search revealed the pentastar has a bit of an odd oil canister. Top mounted filter only unit(no canister). Apparently these are big in the BMW crowd. Anyone know the reason why Dodge went to such an unconventional setup? Regardless, the more important question is how do I go about changing it? What parts will I need to do so? Am I forced to get only MOPAR filters?

If anyone has any links to a walk through of the oil change procedure, that would be wonderful. I have been googling and looking through youtube to find some sort of walk through, but alas I might have to go in blind a bit and figure this one out on my own.

But the one thing I need to move forward is find out exactly what parts I need to change the filter.

The one nice thing i was reading on some of the BMW boards is the posibility of using an Oil Evac(Topsider). Being able to pop the hood change the oil and filter without ever having to get under the car is a nice thought. But again this is a method I have never used before.

Thanks for any advice or help you all can shed.

Mike
 

Last edited by Buschman007; Apr 4, 2012 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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From Pentastars.com: http://www.pentastars.com/engines/tech.php
Canister-free oil filter element — prevents landfill, allows incineration; also eases DIY oil changes and prevents ham-fisted oil change places from "holing" or over-tightening the filter
You will find this Thread interesting, including the use of an oil extractor: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...ine-oil-filter

Filter availability: http://jeepgarage.org/showthread.php?t=17924

How to change the filter: http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/jeep-wra...6l-oil-change/

Filters:
Fram ExtraGuard CH10955
Purolator L36135 Classic Oil Filter
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 11:10 PM
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TJeepman, thanks for your post, very helpful!

For anyone else going through this, here is what I went with.

For the filter I found a 3 pack of OEM Mopar Filters, $25 including the shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1TPY3ZPY73R8W

I also picked up this Oil extractor:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7974_200007974

I'll let you all know what I think about the quality of these parts and the ease of the oil change process after I try it out myself.

Thanks again TJeepman, for your help.

Mike
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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Wow this is intriguing. I don't think I feel like messing with an extractor, but it appears this will be the easiest filter change in history. I just got my 12, and didn't realize it worked like this. Do you guys go 8,000 between changes? The dealers around here try to 'recommend' a 3,000 mile interval because of 'harsh conditions' (central NY), but the manual and warranty booklet don't seem to indicate any need for this unless driving in dusty or off road environments.
 

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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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One thing to be mindful about is that there is more to changing your oil than just replacing the oil and filter. While you're at it you should be inspecting CV boots, tie rod boots, ball joint boots, checking linkages and checking for oil leaks. If you never get under your vehicle because you are changing the oil top side most of this stuff will get skipped.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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I buy Purolator L136135 oil filters at the local Advanced Auto for $5.99 each and I don't have to wait to get it and I pay no shipping fees.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by zero10
One thing to be mindful about is that there is more to changing your oil than just replacing the oil and filter. While you're at it you should be inspecting CV boots, tie rod boots, ball joint boots, checking linkages and checking for oil leaks. If you never get under your vehicle because you are changing the oil top side most of this stuff will get skipped.
There is added value to getting under the vehicle. I usually spray a little Fluid Film here and there, lube lower ball joints and sway bar links, and generally check for leaks or rust.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RugerRedhawk
Wow this is intriguing. I don't think I feel like messing with an extractor, but it appears this will be the easiest filter change in history. I just got my 12, and didn't realize it worked like this. Do you guys go 8,000 between changes? The dealers around here try to 'recommend' a 3,000 mile interval because of 'harsh conditions' (central NY), but the manual and warranty booklet don't seem to indicate any need for this unless driving in dusty or off road environments.
There is an internal oil monitor that factors in your driving habits. The only thing I would think it does not factor in is environmental factors. So you might want to shorten the period if you live in more hazardous areas. You can also send your oil out to be examined afterwards to verify you are maintaining a safe viscousity.

Good thoughts about getting under the car. But I still need to rotate the tires and that will be my opportunity to get under there and do a proper inspection. Thanks for the suggestions though, definitely good to keep in mind.

Mike
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Buschman007
There is an internal oil monitor that factors in your driving habits. The only thing I would think it does not factor in is environmental factors. So you might want to shorten the period if you live in more hazardous areas. You can also send your oil out to be examined afterwards to verify you are maintaining a safe viscousity.

Good thoughts about getting under the car. But I still need to rotate the tires and that will be my opportunity to get under there and do a proper inspection. Thanks for the suggestions though, definitely good to keep in mind.

Mike
Yeah I am just going to go by the monitor, it seems that there is no way I can void my warranty if I follow the owners manual.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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The cartridge type filter sounds great but for the time being I prefer the spin on filter. The available filter media for the cartridge seems to be "not top notch" for efficiency.

For examples, the Fram ExtraGuard CH10955 and Purolator L36135 Classic Oil Filter are less efficient than the filter media for a Fram Tough Guard and Purolator Pure One at >20 micron particle size, by about 2% to 4%.

Mobil 1 doesn't seem to have one of their super duper high efficiency full flow filters available either. When searching their site @ http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...ilFilters.aspx they give:
Champion Model P990
Fram Model CH10955
If one is going to go under their vehicle anyway, the oil filter removal/installation is pretty small potatoes in the whole event plus the gasket is already on the filter, not separate. For those that don't like the feel of cold pavement on their back, removal from the top and the use of an extractor would be their cup of tea.

I wonder who makes the Mopar filter. Likely Purolator, especially if it has a string around the filter media.
 
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