I have an '05 that I think I'm on the 4th battery in about 5 years and the alternator has been replaced as well. The battery needs charged usually twice/week at this point. Somewhere, there has to be a drain on it. I'm wondering if it is somehow related to the sliding rear doors not working at some point.

I've searched some threads on battery drain issues, but I'm just trying to picture how to do this. My manual doesn't really show anything about how to do it. Trying to get this resolved because my wife has had to have it jump started at the gym and soccer fields in the past week.

Thanks for any suggestions you many have.

 

"How do do this" How to do it"??? You mean how to troubleshoot a parasitic battery drain? Here's how: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...-battery-drain

Both power sliding doors dead or just one?

 

I got a Craftsman clamp ammeter and it's not giving me a reading at all on the DC and I'm thinking it's a bad meter.

Step 1, I've removed the cables and cleaned off any corrosion as that seems to be an ongoing issue with this model. I also checked the amps while sitting (13.07V) and when running (13.66V).

Will keep plugging away at this.

 

You can use any meter with a DC amp function. Just disconnect the negative battery cable, wait 15 minutes for the circuits to "go to sleep" then connect the negative lead to the negative battery post and the positive lead to the negative battery cable. That's the required "in series" connection when measuring amperage.

That's a typo right? "I also checked the amps while sitting (13.07V) and when running (13.66V)."

 

Ok, here's the latest update:

Got a good Fluke clamp ammeter. I show 0.0 DC when clamped around the negative terminal, so it's making me think I don't have a drain issue.

I found a test that talked about testing the alternator to see if it's functioning. I tested the battery prior to starting and got 12.8V. When I started it, it continuously read 13.5V, no matter how much load I placed on the vehicle (heater, bright lights, etc). The video said the proper range is 13.8-14.8V, so is it safe to assume my alternator is the issue?

 

what type of amp clamp do you have, can you link us to a page? because sometimes the Big amp clamp are not sensive enough to pick up small draws. using amp function of a meter is better.

However, if you want to make sure it is the car instead of defective battery, try unhook the battery every night when you park the car, isolate the battery from the car's eletronic, see if the battery still goes dead for a week or 2.

what kind of battery you have? The VALUE LINE battery from some part store sucks, I've heard ppl go thru 2 of them every year.
13.5v is fine, as along as the voltage is above 13.0, the alternator is charging the battery.

 

Yup, something wrong there. You should see a normal draw of around 30 milliamps not 0.0

Was that a generic video showing charging systems in general? Not sure what the specific spec is for these vans. 13.5 vdc is on the low side but should be ok. The fact it stays at 13.5 vdc under load is a good sign. Means the voltage regulator is doing it's job.

 

The ammeter is a Fluke 322-perhaps it isn't sensitive enough. It only reads out to 1 decimal point. http://www.myflukestore.com/p1245/fluke_322.php

The battery is a DieHard Gold and was new in June 2010 and I had my wife go to Advance Auto and they did a test on it. It's rated for 795 CCA, but tested at 487 CCA and was at 12.88V and at 13.45V while running. The temp was 128 degrees, so I don't know how much that has to do with it, but it failed the test.

I hate the hassle this has caused me, but I'm pretty much determined that I'm going to drive this thing until I face a signficant repair just because I want to avoid car payments for 2-3 more years if at all possible. My wife carries a jumper but recently got to the point that even with the jumper, it wouldn't start, so that was my biggest concern.

Thanks!

 

those amp meter won't pick up anything accurately if it is less than 5 amps. you need to use a Conventional meter and Hook it up in series. Just youtube the procedure, parasitic drain test.
Since the battery failed the test, did they gave u a new battery? I thought those battery comes with 2 yr free replacement.
But if there is a drain that keeps on killing ur battery, it will detoriate the battery cells after a few ressurection from the dead.

regarding the sliding door, most of the time it is the Wire loom that flex breaks off. The wires inside the plastic chain. Open up the chain, see if you find a broken wire. If you do, I recommend to replace the whole wiring harness with the chain. It is a easy job.
Now come to think of it, If there is a wire that breaks off and makes the computer thinks your door is OPEN, it could keep the computer alive and kill your battery.

 

Hmm-interesting thought. Sears replaced the battery yesterday free of charge and confirmed everything is working properly. This is my weekend to get stuff done around the house, so I'll be searching for broken wires on the sliding door this weekend.