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Old May 26, 2012 | 12:42 AM
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Thank you all. I'm just wondering how easy to replace the sparkplugs. I was just looking at it and how do i get to those near the firewall
 
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Old May 26, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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Old May 26, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by VolvoT5
Thank you all. I'm just wondering how easy to replace the sparkplugs. I was just looking at it and how do i get to those near the firewall
The other poster's links are good, and if you have the 3.3, you can do it without removing the wiper cowl. I was able to do it with my 3.3L engine this way, took about 1/2 hour total reaching gently over and around the intake manifold to get to the farthest back plug on the pass side.
 
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Old May 26, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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Many thanks. I also saw the you tube videos. I will remove the wipers. I just need to get the puller. My wife gave me a 300pc craftsman mechanic tools las christamas. What else should I replace while I have the wipers out? Any suggestions what kind of plugs and wires should I get. Also looking on you tube videos and forums. Should I do a flush or drain and fill on my transmissions? Does the transmission pan have a drain plug? Local shop asking $180 for tranny service
 
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Old May 26, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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No, trans does not have drain plug, you just have to drop the pan. Also, use ATF RTV only, if part store sells u a gasket that comes with the filter, throw it away and us RTV, gasket will leak. Just clean up old RTV with a razor blade.
you could replace the valve cover gasket while you have the wiper assy out, they tend to leak after a period of time.
Plug and wire, Use Factory plug and wire only. do NOT use Bosch or Autolite.
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 01:09 AM
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Ok. The tranny will be a challenge. Any tips on how to take out the pan without spilling any of the oil. HOA will get mad at me if I dirty our new garage.

Also for the AC, mine didn't come with the cabin filter, what is the best way to get rid of that smell. It smells like those rental cars when I have the AC on
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 02:07 AM
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Not really any tips, Leave one bolt loose, have a HUGE drain pan under it, pry the pan down. You will get some ATF on the floor no matter what. Just get a spray bottle of De-Greaser for cleaning. Unless you have something to Suck it out from the Dip stick tube, but such equipment is not worth the money for one tiime use. and ATF is too thick to siphon.

as for the A/C, the inlet hole is atually under the Wiper assy. If you feel like taking the Wiper arms and cover off, look for the HVAC inlet on the passenger size, and soak it with something like... Febreeze?
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by steak59
Not really any tips, Leave one bolt loose, have a HUGE drain pan under it, pry the pan down. You will get some ATF on the floor no matter what. Just get a spray bottle of De-Greaser for cleaning. Unless you have something to Suck it out from the Dip stick tube, but such equipment is not worth the money for one tiime use. and ATF is too thick to siphon.

as for the A/C, the inlet hole is atually under the Wiper assy. If you feel like taking the Wiper arms and cover off, look for the HVAC inlet on the passenger size, and soak it with something like... Febreeze?
I would vote for the full machine flush. After many years of fluid and filter changes, I sprang for my first flush when I had a Chrysler Sebring Convertible while I was working at the dealership, so I got it at cost.

All I can say is WOW, what a difference. Basically, instead of changing 1/3rd of the fluid, you are getting it ALL done. I describe the fluid and filter change to people like this: If someone spit in your soda, and I dumped half of it out and poured half new in, would you still want to drink it? Or would you rather I dumped it all out and poured you a new soda.

I think, especially given the reputation of the minivan transmission, that it's money well spent. I think it cost around $180 to have it done here, too. The bulk of the cost is in the fluid, even Castrol non-dealer product was around $6-7 per quart because it's synthetic, and you're using something like 12-14 quarts (I forget the exact figure.) Any spare fluid you have left over can be used to flush the power steering system, which uses the same stuff -- DO NOT use the clear, generic PS fluid you buy at the store.

You will want to find a place that does it through the transmission cooler and return lines, not just by sucking some out through the dipstick tube, refilling, running, and suctioning again.

You can do the Fluid and filter change yourself, but I would strongly recommend the full flush, it has worked wonders on every car I've done it to. Also, less chance of leaks because you're not messing with the pan or gasket when you have them flush it.

I still have a filter downstairs that I bought for the Caravan when I intended to do it, but decided against it. That said, I may still replace the filter at around 100k miles and then get it flushed again.

Be warned: after the flush it will probably drive like a new car. 3/3 of the cars I've owned since that Sebring that got trans flushes have!!
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 04:05 PM
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Ok i might just do the flush myself. Worried that shops might use compress air. Can i drain the oil from the cooler then drop the pan after?
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by VolvoT5
Ok i might just do the flush myself. Worried that shops might use compress air. Can i drain the oil from the cooler then drop the pan after?
I am not sure what the fittings are like to take off of the cooler. It's not just the cooler though - the torque convertor, etc. get drained by the flush because the trans is operating while the flush is taking place.

I am not familiar with the compressed air thing you are talking about. All of the trans machines I have ever used circulate the fluid through with a pump that does not use compressed air.
 
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