1998 Dodge caravan 3.0l v6 will turn over but not start.. PLEASE HELP!
#1
05-25-2012, 09:26 AM
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1998 Dodge caravan 3.0l v6 will turn over but not start.. PLEASE HELP!
Hello,
I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan 3.0L V6. A few weeks ago I was driving this van when it just turned off and then wouldn't start back up. It would turn over just wouldn't start. So my husband replaced the water pump and the timing belt. The timing belt was not broke but was missing alot of teeth. So after replacing we tried to start the van and it was turning over but not starting once again. So he took all back apart thinking he didnt line up the timing marks right and the timing was off after adjusting the timing by making sure they were all lined up right . he tried starting again and still won't start. Then he thought it might have been spark plugs since they were really worn so we replaced all the spark plugs and it still will not start but will turn over. When turning the key we do hear the fuel pump turn on. we tried using starting fluid and still wouldn't start. We tried checking codes by cycling the key to the on then off position a few times and got the codes 12 and 55. Any suggestions on what could be causing this? Thanks in advance
I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan 3.0L V6. A few weeks ago I was driving this van when it just turned off and then wouldn't start back up. It would turn over just wouldn't start. So my husband replaced the water pump and the timing belt. The timing belt was not broke but was missing alot of teeth. So after replacing we tried to start the van and it was turning over but not starting once again. So he took all back apart thinking he didnt line up the timing marks right and the timing was off after adjusting the timing by making sure they were all lined up right . he tried starting again and still won't start. Then he thought it might have been spark plugs since they were really worn so we replaced all the spark plugs and it still will not start but will turn over. When turning the key we do hear the fuel pump turn on. we tried using starting fluid and still wouldn't start. We tried checking codes by cycling the key to the on then off position a few times and got the codes 12 and 55. Any suggestions on what could be causing this? Thanks in advance
#3
05-26-2012, 03:34 PM
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Get wife to start cart cranking, and check if you are getting spark from coil. here is the link need a test light, 5 bucks,
http://www.youtube.com/watchfeature=player_embedded&v=
5ewJIBS9L98#!
Testing your CKP sensor, you can test for voltage output and compare the results to manufacturer specifications. If your voltmeter comes with needle probes, back probe the wires at the sensor connector. If this is not possible, unplug the sensor electrical connector and plug the two halves to a test connector or a couple of jumper wires. Then plug back the connector.
Set your digital multimeter to AC milivolts range and have wife crank the engine. A typical sensor will have an output above 200 mV. However, your van maybe different. check your manual or ask on forum.
If your service manual gives a resistance value, you can test the sensor without having to crank up the engine. Unplug the sensor and connect the meter probes to each sensor wire connector. Set your meter to Ohms and compare your reading to the resistance value specified in your service manual. If your voltage or resistance values are out of specifications, replace the sensor.
It is common for loose connectors or broken wires to keep the sensor from communicating with the computer pcm.
http://www.youtube.com/watchfeature=player_embedded&v=
5ewJIBS9L98#!
Testing your CKP sensor, you can test for voltage output and compare the results to manufacturer specifications. If your voltmeter comes with needle probes, back probe the wires at the sensor connector. If this is not possible, unplug the sensor electrical connector and plug the two halves to a test connector or a couple of jumper wires. Then plug back the connector.
Set your digital multimeter to AC milivolts range and have wife crank the engine. A typical sensor will have an output above 200 mV. However, your van maybe different. check your manual or ask on forum.
If your service manual gives a resistance value, you can test the sensor without having to crank up the engine. Unplug the sensor and connect the meter probes to each sensor wire connector. Set your meter to Ohms and compare your reading to the resistance value specified in your service manual. If your voltage or resistance values are out of specifications, replace the sensor.
It is common for loose connectors or broken wires to keep the sensor from communicating with the computer pcm.
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05-27-2012, 09:35 AM
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#5
05-28-2012, 12:36 PM
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The other informaiton i shared above maybe the crankshaft sensor.
It also could be an electrical issue. The wires loosing their insulation due to constant heat exposure. See the attachment. YOu could cut back the insulation of the harness, larger one by the intake manifold. and see if the wires are like the ones in the attachment. Also check corrosion on ground wire from batter to the fender i believe on your car year.
The fuse box under the hook is also worthy to be checked. Check underneath it. There are i believe 2 screws holding it in place. remove them, and then look underneath for any corrosion that could be there. that is where the hot lead will go.
ITs either a fuel or spark or electrical issue. you checked and got spark out of the coil. check to see if the bolts holding the pcm/ecm(computer) is grounded to the car well enough. any corrosion. i read in a forum one time that a man tried everything to get the car to start. finally went to computer. the bolts were tight but he just gave them a couple of turns in the loose direction. car started. he tightened them up and it would start. this maybe a long shot. but who knows. i want you to get your van started.
It also could be an electrical issue. The wires loosing their insulation due to constant heat exposure. See the attachment. YOu could cut back the insulation of the harness, larger one by the intake manifold. and see if the wires are like the ones in the attachment. Also check corrosion on ground wire from batter to the fender i believe on your car year.
The fuse box under the hook is also worthy to be checked. Check underneath it. There are i believe 2 screws holding it in place. remove them, and then look underneath for any corrosion that could be there. that is where the hot lead will go.
ITs either a fuel or spark or electrical issue. you checked and got spark out of the coil. check to see if the bolts holding the pcm/ecm(computer) is grounded to the car well enough. any corrosion. i read in a forum one time that a man tried everything to get the car to start. finally went to computer. the bolts were tight but he just gave them a couple of turns in the loose direction. car started. he tightened them up and it would start. this maybe a long shot. but who knows. i want you to get your van started.
#6
05-29-2012, 06:38 PM
Did your husband connected injector wire harness back? I know, for the fact, that in order to replace water pump on 3.0L engines you have to remove intake manifold because the upper bolt that holds water pump cannot be unscrewed fully out. And you have to disconnect those wires in order to remove intake manifold. Also, check if cables match numbers on distributor cap with spark plugs.
