1999 Caravan clicking/popping driver side front
Greetings everyone!
I have a situation with my 99 caravan that developed a couple weeks ago. On the freeway, driving around town, etc i notice a popping/clicking sound that seems to originate from the driverside front of the vehicle. It's most noticeable on smaller bumps in the road and even one somewhat smooth roads. I can feel it in my left foot (placed flat on the floor) and a little in the steering wheel. I also hear/notice it when I start off from a stop light and when braking. Almost seems to correspond with body shift.
My initial thought was perhaps a ball joint. I checked it according to Mitchell OnDemand procedures (which were just to check the grease zerk for looseness) and that passed the test.
Did brakes about a month ago and took a quick look at the tie rod ends and they appeared fine. However this was not an in depth check.
Any suggestions on where to look for this issue?
Thanks for the help!
I have a situation with my 99 caravan that developed a couple weeks ago. On the freeway, driving around town, etc i notice a popping/clicking sound that seems to originate from the driverside front of the vehicle. It's most noticeable on smaller bumps in the road and even one somewhat smooth roads. I can feel it in my left foot (placed flat on the floor) and a little in the steering wheel. I also hear/notice it when I start off from a stop light and when braking. Almost seems to correspond with body shift.
My initial thought was perhaps a ball joint. I checked it according to Mitchell OnDemand procedures (which were just to check the grease zerk for looseness) and that passed the test.
Did brakes about a month ago and took a quick look at the tie rod ends and they appeared fine. However this was not an in depth check.
Any suggestions on where to look for this issue?
Thanks for the help!
I'd say the strut mount or strut is failing. You can replace the cartridge only if the moount is in good shape. The only problem is that you have to take it apart to check it out.
My 98 has a similiar problem and I replaced the driver's side strut mount; the noise is still there. I just got the complete strut assembly and will replace it soon.
My 98 has a similiar problem and I replaced the driver's side strut mount; the noise is still there. I just got the complete strut assembly and will replace it soon.
Check the bushing on the sway bar. The sway bar attaches to each strut assembly with a swat bar link, runs under the vehicle (attached to the frame with 2 bushings and clamps - make sure the bar is centered) and attaches to the other strut assembly with another sway bar link. I had the same clunking sound, one of the sway bar bushings was missing - easy fix for under $16.00 (for both of them)
Check the bushing on the sway bar. The sway bar attaches to each strut assembly with a swat bar link, runs under the vehicle (attached to the frame with 2 bushings and clamps - make sure the bar is centered) and attaches to the other strut assembly with another sway bar link. I had the same clunking sound, one of the sway bar bushings was missing - easy fix for under $16.00 (for both of them)
Sorry, It's been a while. I'm pretty sure at this point it's a ball joint. It's gotten worse over the past year or however long it's been. I checked the passenger side ball joint tonight and the grease zerk is pointing forward instead of down and there is a nice orange rusty powder around it. Planning to do a ball joint soon, any suggestions?
Cheers
Cheers
I've seen scenarios where people remove the cradle and the lower control arm to do this repair. I don't understand why. Mitchell OnDemand shows removing the knuckle but nothing about the lower control arm.
I'm gearing up to do a more thorough inspection and (presumably) ball joint replacement tomorrow (Sunday).
I have the OEM brand ball joint press on loan from auto zone, has anyone used this tool without removing the lower control arms? It sounds like some people have had issues w/ it on other vehicles. I'd like to avoid removing the control arm if possible.
I've done tie rod ends, CV axles, and leaf springs on a pick up truck before, but not a ball joint so this will be a learning experience for me.
Cheers
I have the OEM brand ball joint press on loan from auto zone, has anyone used this tool without removing the lower control arms? It sounds like some people have had issues w/ it on other vehicles. I'd like to avoid removing the control arm if possible.
I've done tie rod ends, CV axles, and leaf springs on a pick up truck before, but not a ball joint so this will be a learning experience for me.
Cheers
Last edited by issakar; Jun 22, 2013 at 03:31 PM.
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Progress report:
Slow going. It took me a few to find a solid place to jack the van up; Michigan winters have taken their toll on the poor girl.
Once I had it up I got the wheel off, noticed that it looks like my brake pads I did about a year ago are glazed and look a bit uneven, so I think my caliper is starting to have problems. Another project.
I've been working on the tie rod for a while now. The last time this van was serviced for a tie rod end or something related I suspect the bolt was cross threaded when replaced (this would have been done at a shop). I have the bolt 3/4 of the way off but the tie rod just spins and I can't get enough leverage to keep it from spinning. I've resorted to having to cut it off and find a replacement bolt. I hope I'll be able to find one.
Meanwhile everything is soaked w/ PB Blaster in hopes of making the second half of this project go smoother. Replacement joint is in the freezer, chillin'.
I did confirm the ball joint to be the cause of my issue. After removing the wheel I used a pry bar to give things a good wiggle and there is considerable movement in the joint. I also was able to move the grease zerk around after that.
At least I know i'm on the right track.
Slow going. It took me a few to find a solid place to jack the van up; Michigan winters have taken their toll on the poor girl.
Once I had it up I got the wheel off, noticed that it looks like my brake pads I did about a year ago are glazed and look a bit uneven, so I think my caliper is starting to have problems. Another project.
I've been working on the tie rod for a while now. The last time this van was serviced for a tie rod end or something related I suspect the bolt was cross threaded when replaced (this would have been done at a shop). I have the bolt 3/4 of the way off but the tie rod just spins and I can't get enough leverage to keep it from spinning. I've resorted to having to cut it off and find a replacement bolt. I hope I'll be able to find one.
Meanwhile everything is soaked w/ PB Blaster in hopes of making the second half of this project go smoother. Replacement joint is in the freezer, chillin'.
I did confirm the ball joint to be the cause of my issue. After removing the wheel I used a pry bar to give things a good wiggle and there is considerable movement in the joint. I also was able to move the grease zerk around after that.
At least I know i'm on the right track.
Break time,
I have decided to replace the tie rod on this side. I need an alignment anyway and it's a $12-ish dollar part and I think it will be easier than hunting down an appropriate replacement nut. Also, the threads on the stud are looking pretty rough too.
I also got the thru bolt for the ball joint out, that was much easier, so yay. However, looking at it now, I don't think I'll be able to leave the knuckle in tact. I should have figured this but decided to try. I'm going to try removing the knuckle and hanging it off to the side with the CV Shaft ATTACHED to the knuckle. I don't have an impact or socket to get the axle out at this time so I'm going to try avoiding it. If I absolutely must take it off I'll run down to Harbor Freight and grab an impact and socket (I have a compressor to run the impact) but I would like to avoid it if possible.
Anyway, that's where I be at this point.
Cheers
I have decided to replace the tie rod on this side. I need an alignment anyway and it's a $12-ish dollar part and I think it will be easier than hunting down an appropriate replacement nut. Also, the threads on the stud are looking pretty rough too.
I also got the thru bolt for the ball joint out, that was much easier, so yay. However, looking at it now, I don't think I'll be able to leave the knuckle in tact. I should have figured this but decided to try. I'm going to try removing the knuckle and hanging it off to the side with the CV Shaft ATTACHED to the knuckle. I don't have an impact or socket to get the axle out at this time so I'm going to try avoiding it. If I absolutely must take it off I'll run down to Harbor Freight and grab an impact and socket (I have a compressor to run the impact) but I would like to avoid it if possible.
Anyway, that's where I be at this point.
Cheers
Well unfortunately I am at a stopping point for the night.
I decided to go pick up an impact to make my life easier. Was worth the investment. I got the knuckle taken off the strut and off the ball joint. I have it supported on a couple of jack stands.
The issue I ran into now is that the ball joint press from Auto Zone doesn't seem to have the right part to aid in pressing out the joint. The smallest collar is too large and I don't have a socket that will work.
Planning to get up tomorrow and get back at it, going to search around for a way to press that part out.
I decided to go pick up an impact to make my life easier. Was worth the investment. I got the knuckle taken off the strut and off the ball joint. I have it supported on a couple of jack stands.
The issue I ran into now is that the ball joint press from Auto Zone doesn't seem to have the right part to aid in pressing out the joint. The smallest collar is too large and I don't have a socket that will work.
Planning to get up tomorrow and get back at it, going to search around for a way to press that part out.


