I have a 2001 Town & Country with a weird problem. If it's left idling for any length of time while it's hot out the engine will just shut down. The engine temp is fine and is not overheating. After about 15 minutes it will crank back up like nothing is wrong and run fine.

When it shuts down it has power from the battery and lights on dash light up, but it will not even attempt to crank. The starter does not even click.

It did it again last night as we were sitting in a traffic jam going to the UT-Florida game. Luckily it quit just as we were about to pull into a space and a few tailgaters help push it into the space. After about 10 minuted it started up with no warning lights and all gauges we're normal. We ended up leaving the game early to avoid a jam on the way out.

Has anyone had a problem like this? I thought it may be the oil pressure sensor, but I think the engine will try to crank when that is the problem.

Thanks for any help.

 

No one has had this problem before? I was hoping it would be a simple relay or sensor that needed replacing.

 

Usually they die while cruising down the road or when coming to a stop. Yours is a little unusual. What would I do? Next time it dies check for spark and fuel. One or the other is quitting.

Fuel check? Several ways. The best way is to get a loaner fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone or the like, connect it to the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail, crank the engine and look for 55 psi. Another way is to press the stem open on the test port (mind the risks) and verify fuel squirts out and doesn't just dribble. Listen for the pump to moan slightly when you turn the key to on. Should last a second then turn off.

Spark check? You can use a spark tester or a timing light. Most just disconnect a spark plug wire stick a screw driver in the end then touch the screw driver to any structure. Should see a healthy spark as you crank the engine. You could also remove a spark plug and do the same.

Wouldn't hurt to check for codes when it dies. Cycle the key from off to on X3 leaving it on. Any codes will show up on the odometer display.

 

Thanks for the tips, but the engine will not even turn over when this happens. The starter will not engage. The dash lights come on as normal, but nothing happens at all when the key is turned. After 15-30 minutes it fires up like nothing happened.

CEL light wasn't on and I wasn't able to get any codes by cycling the key last time.

 

All I have to do is read.

Battery, battery cables, IPM. Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. A battery load test wouldn't hurt. The cables and IPM are known for corrosion problems. Battery cables corrode internally especially near connections. They could be passing enough power to light lights but not enough to turn the starter. When it stalls try a wiggle check on the cables and IPM connections. Check the voltage drop between the battery and the starter battery feed connection. Early 4th generation vans are particularly known for IPM corrosion problems. Inspect connections.

Could be a temperature sensitive PCM shutting down. The PCM supplies the ground to the starter relay coil. If the starter relay in the IPM doesn't click when you turn the key it's a sign it's not getting that ground. The TCM supplies power to the starter relay coil. Handy with a meter? Remove the starter relay and test for 12vdc at contact 86 on the relay panel with the key turned to start. If it's there, the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) in the transmission and the wiring between are good. That again would point to the PCM ground being bad. The TRS tells the PCM the transmission is in park or neutral.

PCM - Powertrain Control Module (engine computer under the hood)
IPM - Integrated Power Module (your fuse box under the hood)
TRS - Transmission Range Sensor (series of switches in the transmission positioned by your gear shift)
TCM - Transmission Control Module (transmission computer in left wheel well forward behind splash shield)