i have read that the crankshaft and camshaft sensors can stop it from starting as well, im going to remove them and clean them tommrw, is there a way to test them with a volt meter?

 

If you hydro lock the engine, you alrdy destroyed he engine, so even if you drained it out, it is done. I am just guessing, only a Compression test can tell you the health of your engine.
But it could be a just a eletrical problem.

not really any way to test CAM and Crank sensor except using scanner. But if you lost ur Crank sensor, you won't hav spark. If you lost ur CAM, car still runs, but long crank. So just disconnect the CAM sensor and see what happen.
However, those sensors are mounts fairly high on the engine, Crank sensor is above the transmission at the rear of the engine. Cam sensor is behind the alternator, by the passenger side motor mount.

 

okay thanks, i did a test on compression on two cylinders and one went to 90 psi after about 5 seconds of cranking but drops down right away, and another went to 120 and dropped to 90 in about 5 seconds and then to zero in another 10 seconds. smoke came out of the throttle body and airhose plug on the valve cover, i disconnected the fuel pump relay when doing the test
with these results what does it sound like?

 

You really need to check all 6. Not sure what kind of compression tester you are using but unless you are getting the piston to stop under compression the drop doesn't mean anything.

 

The gauge really shouldn't drop unless u release the pressure inside the gauge. Perhaps the tool you are using is defective, not using the tool right, or you are using the wrong type of gauge. Just look up Youtube.
You just hook the gauge up to the spark plug opening, wide open Throttle, and Crank the engine for like 3-5 second, and the gauge.

If you have problem getting to the rear plugs, Just the front cylinder should be good enuff,

 

Since you have spark and fuel, you should be turning over. Could water have gotten into your gas tank somehow? Can you check the fuel rail pressure? You said it's good but have you used a gauge?

Since you probably sucked water up the intake manifold, pull and look at the IAT sensor. This sensor started to fail in my 1996 van and it would cause the motor to die all the time until it was replaced, so it could very well influence timing or fuel delivery so much that your van won't start if the value is way out of whack or it's shorted. I never got a code or CEL for this fault.

On my 1996 there are 2-digit DTCs that are read by cycling the key on-off-on-off-on and counting the check engine light flashes. I am not sure if that is still the case on 2000s, but it's worth a check.

Edit: Also, check the air filter element! If its clogged with water and mud I doubt it'll be too happy. Try to give light throttle when cranking in case the idle air controller isn't working.

 

I did 2 out of the front 3 and got those result as well as look at youtube before doing it so i had an idea. it did come across my mind that the gauge might not be good, and did the foot on the gas pedal while cranking during the test.
my van doesnt do the key on/off code check

before any of this i did check the air filter and it was soaked completely
another thing i should have mentioned when doing the compression test, when my helper was cranking it was smoking out of the hole on the valve cover where the hose goes, and out of the throttle body, fuel pump relay disconnected

yes when i tested for fuel pressure it was more than 40 at key on
im under the impression that if for any reason any of these "start up" sensors are bad or not giving proper signal then i shouldnt be getting signal from the pcm to the injectors when i crank. is this right?

 

I think you need to pull all 6 plugs and check compression on all 6. You say you are getting spark and fuel (both pressure and injector signals) so that leads me to believe that you have a compression problem, especially with the probability of water being compressed in 1 or more cylinders.

 

update- got it to start today, and it smoked out the exhaust for about 10 minutes wont stay on when i take my foot off the gas. also im hearing a knocking that increases in speed and loudness with rpm from the engine so it looks like the engine is going to need a rebuild or replace. 164k miles worth keeping?

 

Depends on how much you cranked it with water in it. It doesn't take much to do a number on the internals. Compression test will be the only way you can start to narrow things down.