2011 Grand Caravan front rotors - warp
[QUOTE=2therock;2924569]
What torque spec are you using. I do 110 ft #. My studs are M12-1.5.
/QUOTE]
I'm using 100 ft/lbs... I think spec was 95, and I can't remember where I read that.
What torque spec are you using. I do 110 ft #. My studs are M12-1.5.
/QUOTE]
I'm using 100 ft/lbs... I think spec was 95, and I can't remember where I read that.
[quote=fj5gtx;2925725]
Tire Rack has a chart with stud sizes and it says 85# for 12m - 1.5. I guess I'll go 90 for good measure.
Work in progress I'm waiting for the pads. I have been doing lots of reading and from what I see drilled is for show only and may hurt heat sinking and the like. Geesh. Hopefully with the so-claimed better metallurgy, Cryo treatment, maybe I'll get lucky. She will have the Bling without the Zing eh?
I have the rotors bolted on to indicate them. The needle barely moves. I would have to put a last word indicator on it to get a number. Looks like I got a true set.
Tire Rack has a chart with stud sizes and it says 85# for 12m - 1.5. I guess I'll go 90 for good measure.
Work in progress I'm waiting for the pads. I have been doing lots of reading and from what I see drilled is for show only and may hurt heat sinking and the like. Geesh. Hopefully with the so-claimed better metallurgy, Cryo treatment, maybe I'll get lucky. She will have the Bling without the Zing eh?
I have the rotors bolted on to indicate them. The needle barely moves. I would have to put a last word indicator on it to get a number. Looks like I got a true set.
Did the tech rep mention how to clean the disc properly? Soap and water is what Wagner recommends. They say the disc should be mirror smooth, and recommend sanding if its not. I've sanded discs on other cars to remove rust and provide a good surface for new pads.
From what he tells me actual warping is rare compared to material transfer.
There is always transfer but its even. This is what break in burnishing does. Hawk says if you go to a different pad to turn them so you don't mix them.
I dunno, I just know the generics rotors for this Van with Ceramics go crazy in short order, with organics its a little better but can be done on demand, Wagner Advance Auto rotors are a little better with Advance Auto organics, so I hope this combo of Power Slot and Raybestos Advance Technology pads will improve things some. My luck they will shake during burnishing. 50 mph to 10 mph then 1/4 mile no brakes 8 times then a mile or two to cool.
There is always transfer but its even. This is what break in burnishing does. Hawk says if you go to a different pad to turn them so you don't mix them.
I dunno, I just know the generics rotors for this Van with Ceramics go crazy in short order, with organics its a little better but can be done on demand, Wagner Advance Auto rotors are a little better with Advance Auto organics, so I hope this combo of Power Slot and Raybestos Advance Technology pads will improve things some. My luck they will shake during burnishing. 50 mph to 10 mph then 1/4 mile no brakes 8 times then a mile or two to cool.
Well she is back on the road. I wonder how many Minivans one will see like this?
Now I'm gonna drive her as usual and if they warp or transfer material I'll be back. I did the burnish and she is good to go.

Now I'm gonna drive her as usual and if they warp or transfer material I'll be back. I did the burnish and she is good to go.

See this in-depth article on the causes and cures for brake pedal pulsation. Click on the links within the article too. It's pretty comprehensive and if you're not following all the suggestions, you're setting yourself up for early failure.
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...edal-pulsation
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...edal-pulsation
See this in-depth article on the causes and cures for brake pedal pulsation. Click on the links within the article too. It's pretty comprehensive and if you're not following all the suggestions, you're setting yourself up for early failure.
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...edal-pulsation
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...edal-pulsation
Thanks, I have seen that before and if it were not for it I would not have used the Soap & Water in a hundred years. These StopTechs came clean but I bathed them anyway. I am a machinist and used to use a little Gunk on a rag and then a rinse.
Being a machinist I did compare the thicknesses of the rotors and compared to the Advance Auto Wagners they are heavier and thicker. Although the Wagners were a.010 thicker outside to outside, the StopTech's braking surfaces are thicker and the vanes are curved. I didn't count them but the ports are smaller on the Stoptechs'.
I didn't get my fish scale out but I did do a weight comparison by hand and they are noticeably heavier.
I posted the run out at the outside edge of the face is under .001. I didn't do a middle sweep but it looks like we are a go.
I don't know how much stock to put in Cryo but for a few dollars more I went with it.
As for the drilled, I admit I made the purchase before really researching it and there is lots of info and opinions about them being cosmetic for street use. Racers crack them and the like. If I had read sooner I would have ordered the plane Jane version.
As for the Torque wrench, Heh, good luck with a shop doing that. You either got to know you can trust them or stand there and make sure.
I have to let a shop do my rotation so my warranty will be in tact with their signature on a mileage recorded receipt. So I take it to my local MOPAR dealership for that and its standard procedure with them for aftermarket wheels.
30 Stops! 30? I did the Raybestos recommended 10. The other 20 will have to come in normal driving.
Thanks, I think I have my ducks in a row. Time will tell.


