Conventional rotors with drilled and chamfered holes never hold up as well as undrilled rotors. They tend to crack sooner from heat stress. Slotted rotors will crack sooner too. Serious road racers running heavy street cars don't use them on track days because they don't improve braking performance and don't last as long. Every ounce of metal you remove from your rotors takes away precious heat soak capability. Most all brakes have insufficient mass, so lightening them and creating stress points won't help.

The best, most durable rotors for OEM brake systems on street legal cars are undrilled but have good quality metallurgy. The premium rotors sold by both Autozone and Advance Auto hold up well and only cost about $10 more than their white box 3rd world generic junk.

 

Sure Sure.

 

I wanted to come off my "Sure Sure" reply and get back to let you know I was aware of drilled rotors can crack or spider out at the holes and say thanks.

I have seen pics of this on the Webb and mostly it was on performance vehicles that are pushed pretty hard. And very rarely its just the material transfer on the surface that cracks but not as much as the other.

Its not a given that all drilled rotors will crack and I like mine so much I hope the quality is as good as Stoptech claims to be and I'll stay happy.

I do push mine more than the average Joe. I'm keeping an eye on them and had a balance and rotation done recently and was allowed to enter the shop with my flashlight and magnifying glass to inspect them. I'm good to go so far. Not the slightest hint.

I admitted in earlier posts I read of the possibility of said happening after I installed them or I would possibly have opted for the non-drilled.

Thanks Again, Sorry for the Sure Sure.


Editing in. I went out and photo recorded the surfaces. I had not thought of it before but the pics of the cracked rotors I seen did not have holes drilled and countersunk like mine but I'm sure I have not seen all of the worlds pics on this. The flash make the surface look worse than it is. Its very smooth and the lighter may be from the water after just being washed, you can see the water still in some of the holes. They actually look like blued steel in daylight. I did a pretty thorough job of burnishing them in.

 

Nice pics. All higher quality drilled rotors are countersunk, but they still crack much quicker than non-drilled. Any vehicle that has marginal brake sizing or sees heavier duty use can get cracked rotors. This is especially true for minivans and trucks weighing well over 2 tons, as opposed to lighter sporty cars that often have bigger brakes. Lots of folks on the forums complain about so-called warped rotor symptoms. This is more often than not actually caused by rotor cracks opening up and rotors changing shape when brake system temperatures change. I've had cracked rotors on all my street vehicles. This is typically what causes them to be scrapped, unless you're not monitoring pad wear and wind up scoring one first. I don't make that mistake.