Have a 2010 3.3l Grand Caravan SE and I am getting a P1128 error code. Some back story first. Had it to dealership as check engine light came on. Said that code reader said needed new Plugs and wires. Got them installed by a licensed mechanic not a dealership as price for replacement was to high (Cost $50 dollars just for the dealership to tell me that needed new plugs and wires). Once driving home check engine light came on again. This time took to mechanic (Not dealership) and code is reading now P1128. Sitting in driveway with DTC connected the van keeps shutting off. Have researched and seen that code for P1128 is CLOSED LOOP FUELING NOT ACHIEVED - BANK 1. Also once the check engine light comes on the remote car starter will not let the car start and idle. Just starts briefly and shuts off.

I have done research and lots of people say replace O2 sensors but then read that this doesn't help?

Does anyone have a idea what could cause this and possible remedy?

 

There are usually other codes comes up with this code. I've never seen this code coming on by itself.

Tho, there is a TSB out for it

NUMBER:

GROUP:

DATE: August 18, 2010

NOTE: This bulletin applies to models equipped with a 2.7L, 3.5L, 3.3L, 3.8L or 4.0L
engine (sales code EER, EGG, EGF, EGV, EGL or EGQ) and a automatic
transmission.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Some customers may complain of MIL illumination. No other symptoms will be noted or
experienced. Further investigation by the technician may find DTC P0339 - Crankshaft
Position Sensor Intermittent is set. It is possible that DTC's P0300 - Multiple Cylinder
Misfire and/or P1128 - Closed Loop Fueling Not Achieved - Bank 1 and/or P1129 - Closed
Loop Fueling Not Achieved - Bank 2 could be set along with P0339 - Crankshaft Position
Sensor Intermittent is set.

NUMBER:

GROUP:

DATE:

NOTE: P0339 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Intermittent must be set along with the
other DTC's listed above. If P0339 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Intermittent
is not set then this bulletin does not apply.

DIAGNOSIS:

Using a Scan Tool (wiTech) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures available in
TechCONNECT, verify all engine systems are functioning as designed. If DTC's other than
P0339 with or without P0300, P1128, P1129 are present then record them on the repair

order and repair other DTC's first as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin.

 

I know have an update on this matter.......In the last 4 weeks I got the P1128 code about 6 times. Each time it came on I cleared the code. I has just replace dthe upstream O2 sensor in May. In 3 years I've gone through 5 sensors. I only get the P1128 code when its really hot outside.....I got so frustrated with it I finally took it to the dealership and they diagnosed it with a P1128 (obviously) and intermittent P0339 crankcase position sensor. I'm being billed 4 hours just for the diagnosis + 1 hour for installation which I know only takes 20mins.

In the last year I replaced my plugs, wires, thermostat, temp sensor, MAP sensor and O2 sensor. I only wised I replaced the crankcase position sensor which cost about $40 and I'm into labour of $600 + taxes. I spent about $200 in parts, a fraction of what the dealership charges. What I'm annoyed about is that this is a common problem and I don't understand why it took 4 hours to diagnose it.


I have a 2009 GC with the 3.3 litre engine. I bought it used 2 years ago and had the P1128 error. First time I got the code I replaced the upstream O2 sensor. About 5 months later got the same error so I thought I got a faulty sensor.....parts store gave me a replacement. 8 months later got the same error. I decided to use a genuine Mopar sensor. That lasted 7 months. So the dealer gave me a free replacement.

Before getting the P1128 code the shifting would act funny. Sometimes I would get a periodic clunking noise. When this happened with in 2 days I'd get a P1128.

In 2 years I went through 4 O2 sensors, 2 were free replacements and I also replaced the MAP sensor. Still problem was not fixed. So I figured since I got the code after I'd get the isolated shifting clunk I thought maybe this was related so I replace the input speed sensor on the transmission. Cost was $20. I noticed a huge difference in how the car shifts and more importantly no more P1128. I'm not saying this is always the fix but you may want to consider this before the dealership sucks you in for new ignition wires and a bunch of other stuff. Takes 15 mins to replace the sensor and so far so good. You will need a 1" socket so if you don't have one you'll need to spend another $5-$10

 

P1128 is a fuel trim code.


Yes, the O2 can cause it which is where people primarily go to look first.


However, it is the least common thing to cause a P1128 (or P1129 for the other bank)


Since the 3.3 is a single "bank" exhaust, the DTC points to an issue affecting the entire fuel system. Believe it or not, the most common cause for this DTC is fuel contamination or fuel pressure.

 

I have been intermittently chasing a lone P1128 for a while now. Fortunately I have a code reader that also gives me freeze frame data. Each time I get the code the culprit appears to be the MAP reading. When I pull the MAP sensor off I find that it's lightly covered with oil, so I clean the sensor, clear the code, and the problem goes away...for a while. I thought maybe the culprit was my oiled air filter, but I replaced it with a paper filter and the code comes back, though less frequently. I now think the culprit is vaporized engine oil getting into the intake through the PCV system. I am not burning more oil than is considered normal but I do think the increased airflow through the oiled air filter allowed more air and vaporized oil into the PCV system than normal, and that's how my MAP sensor got fouled.

That's my (ongoing) P1128 story. Your mileage may vary. But when you do get it checked I suggest having the mechanic check the MAP reading and check if the MAP sensor is fouled with oil.

 

Replace the PCV valve. They are problematic in the 2008-2010

 

My scanner also has freeze frame though I really don't know what I should be looking for in regard to the MAP reading. When I first got the car I replace the O2 sensor and MAP sensor. $35 for perhaps an unnecessary sensor is cheaper than having the dealership charge me 2 hours labour for something that take 5 mins. However I kept getting the code P1128. I just replaced the wires.....cost me $50 Cnd. Plugs I used the Champion 7440 cost $50 Cnd( got them on sale) and replace the input speed sensor 2 weeks ago. I no longer get the hesitation in shifting from gears. I noticed when I pulled the old sensor out it was lightly coated in trans oil....not sure if this is normal. As a matter of maintenance I clean off the MAP sensor when I do my oil change. If anyone can help me as to what I should be looking for in regard to the MAP reading using the freeze frame function I'd really appreciate it.

Dennis

 

I know have an update on this matter.......In the last 4 weeks I got the P1128 code about 6 times. Each time it came on I cleared the code. I has just replaced the upstream O2 sensor in May. In 3 years I've gone through 5 sensors. I only get the P1128 code when its really hot outside.....I got so frustrated with it I finally took it to the dealership and they diagnosed it with a P1128 (obviously) and intermittent P0339 crankcase position sensor which my scan tool never picked up. I'm being billed 4 hours just for the diagnosis + 1 hour for installation which I know only takes 20mins.

In the last year I replaced my plugs, wires, thermostat, temp sensor, MAP sensor and O2 sensor. I only wised I replaced the crankcase position sensor which cost about $40 and I'm into labour of $600 + taxes. I spent about $200 in parts, a fraction of what the dealership charges. What I'm annoyed about is that this is a common problem and I don't understand why it took 4 hours to diagnose it.

 

we have a 2010 town and country that would randomly shut stall while driving. No code? We contacted Chrysler engineering directly (we knew a person) and turned out it was the EGR. Now we get a code and usually have to change it once a year.