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Spark plug threading...

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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 12:48 PM
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dakotabear's Avatar
dakotabear
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Default Spark plug threading...

I was replacing the spark plugs and wires on my wife's 2001 Grand Caravan (3.3l) everything went well, with the exception of cylinder 3 (rear middle) which took some extra elbow grease to get undone.

I put some anti seize on, and threaded everything by hand, and torqued it down. When I started up, i heard the "put put" of what sounded like air escaping.

Sure enough # 3 was not all the way seated (problem with working blind on the back 3). I think it may have gotten cross threaded, as it would not go down any more.

I tried using a thread follower, no luck.

I know helicoil is an option, but that's $500+ at a shop... we're a poor missionary family and that's a bit too steep. :-)

Are there any DIY options?

Thanks all for the help.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dakotabear
I was replacing the spark plugs and wires on my wife's 2001 Grand Caravan (3.3l) everything went well, with the exception of cylinder 3 (rear middle) which took some extra elbow grease to get undone.

I put some anti seize on, and threaded everything by hand, and torqued it down. When I started up, i heard the "put put" of what sounded like air escaping.

Sure enough # 3 was not all the way seated (problem with working blind on the back 3). I think it may have gotten cross threaded, as it would not go down any more.

I tried using a thread follower, no luck.

I know helicoil is an option, but that's $500+ at a shop... we're a poor missionary family and that's a bit too steep. :-)

Are there any DIY options?

Thanks all for the help.
Sorry to hear, that really sux. At this point, I would recommend you visit a dealer and paying the $500 or so to get a professional to handle it. Trying to cut threads at the wrong angle with a cheap chaser tool (with no self-centering feature) will make it far more difficult to helicoil. However they probably need to helicoil it now since a chaser was cranked in crooked.

Any further DIY efforts could result turn a $500 heli-coil job into a $1,500 cylinder head R&R and repair job.

Here's the rules I use for replacing spark plugs:

1) Always screw in plugs all the way by hand..not some of the way or far enough, I think....or most of the way. If this can't be done, use a premium self-centering chaser by hand. Do NOT use a tool on it. If a tool is needed, it's going in crooked & I STOP.

2) If the plug gets tight before seating, remove it. You can feel the seat close with your finger or measure depth to head surface. Plug must be totally threaded in before using a tool on it. If you need to apply more than a few inch pounds to install the plug or chase threads, something is very wrong & I IMMEDIATELY STOP.

3) never do a plug change with a hot or warm engine. This increases the likelihood of damaging threads.

4) If somebody else cranked a plug or $5 thread chaser without self-centering in crooked with a wrench causing cross-theading damage or the threads were somehow damaged, I use a premium thread chaser with back tapping or self centering nose. They are literally impossible to cross-thread in skilled hands, but piston can't be at TDC or it may be contacted. Backtaps and self-centering taps are sold by plews, kd and powerbuilt. check ebay.
 

Last edited by Lscman; Mar 28, 2013 at 03:07 PM.
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