2012 front calipers look damp
#1
05-03-2013, 06:29 PM
2012 front calipers look damp
Anyone having issues with the 2012 model front brakes?
In the morning when i first brake a couple of times the front growls like it needs brakes, I pulled the wheels and the pads are thick but the calipers look damp and coated with brake dust, grime. 30K showing on the ODO but i just got it used so i dont know if the brakes are original.
i wonder if the pads are contaminated with brake fluid. There are too many posts to search for this issue so i thought to start one specifically for damp or leaking front calipers.
Any and all opinions welcomed.
In the morning when i first brake a couple of times the front growls like it needs brakes, I pulled the wheels and the pads are thick but the calipers look damp and coated with brake dust, grime. 30K showing on the ODO but i just got it used so i dont know if the brakes are original.
i wonder if the pads are contaminated with brake fluid. There are too many posts to search for this issue so i thought to start one specifically for damp or leaking front calipers.
Any and all opinions welcomed.
#2
05-04-2013, 08:56 AM
Anyone having issues with the 2012 model front brakes?
In the morning when i first brake a couple of times the front growls like it needs brakes, I pulled the wheels and the pads are thick but the calipers look damp and coated with brake dust, grime. 30K showing on the ODO but i just got it used so i dont know if the brakes are original.
i wonder if the pads are contaminated with brake fluid. There are too many posts to search for this issue so i thought to start one specifically for damp or leaking front calipers.
Any and all opinions welcomed.
In the morning when i first brake a couple of times the front growls like it needs brakes, I pulled the wheels and the pads are thick but the calipers look damp and coated with brake dust, grime. 30K showing on the ODO but i just got it used so i dont know if the brakes are original.
i wonder if the pads are contaminated with brake fluid. There are too many posts to search for this issue so i thought to start one specifically for damp or leaking front calipers.
Any and all opinions welcomed.
When working properly, the brakes will growl for the first couple brakes after a rain or car wash. The rotors will get a coating of rust on them overnight that needs buffed off by the pads. This causes growl.
If you have sustained intermittent squeaks that continue after the first couple stops and you've confirmed with a flashlight the brake pads have adequate thickness and the fluid is also not low, then your floating caliper mechanism is rusty, sticking and your brakes will prematurely be destroyed. The pins that hold the caliper and allow it to freely slide (float) must be free of rust, greased and sealed in rubber bellows. Most mechanics never bother to check them. They just throw fresh pads and rotors on it which is the stupidest move possible. The rubber cracks from heat and lets water in which displaces the lubricant and causes rust that prevents the floating calipers from moving freely. The fix for this problem is to visit Dodge dealer to buy a $15 caliper mounting pin and rubber bellow hard parts kit. I would also suggest buying the $12 pad spring kit. These parts are likely rusted and need cleaned & greased or simply replaced. These cheap parts are the cause for stuck brakes that prematurely wear out every 10K miles instead of normally (every 25K mi or so).
A wise owner will insist that the mechanic change the pad springs, caliper mounting pins and rubber bellows during every single brake job and make sure the pin mating hole in the caliper is properly cleaned out and filled with grease. Otherwise the brake system may not operate properly and problems will get worse.
Last edited by Lscman; 05-04-2013 at 09:10 AM.
#3
05-05-2013, 01:01 PM
Awesome reply. thanks.
As i am the new owner for the past 5 months and the van had 25K on the ODO, i am not aware if the pads are original but they look too thick for 30K now on them. That being said, maybe the dampness i see on only the front calipers, is from service, IE bleeding the calipers.
Yes i allways check the pin sildders for function and have been using never seize on them for years.
Excellent advise you gave.
I think what i will do is spray them down with brakeKleen and see if the dampness returns. Cast parts can be pourous and i have actually seen a pourous engine block years ago.
As i am the new owner for the past 5 months and the van had 25K on the ODO, i am not aware if the pads are original but they look too thick for 30K now on them. That being said, maybe the dampness i see on only the front calipers, is from service, IE bleeding the calipers.
Yes i allways check the pin sildders for function and have been using never seize on them for years.
Excellent advise you gave.
I think what i will do is spray them down with brakeKleen and see if the dampness returns. Cast parts can be pourous and i have actually seen a pourous engine block years ago.
#4
05-06-2013, 03:56 PM
Pad thickness can be viewed with a flashlight without pulling the wheel unless you have steel wheels. You are not leaking significant fluid unless the reservoir is low. Have you added fluid in the last year? If not, you have no significant leak. Calipers get dust on them from pad wear which is normal. This metallic dust attracts moisture and encourages rust which is also normal.
When working properly, the brakes will growl for the first couple brakes after a rain or car wash. The rotors will get a coating of rust on them overnight that needs buffed off by the pads. This causes growl.
If you have sustained intermittent squeaks that continue after the first couple stops and you've confirmed with a flashlight the brake pads have adequate thickness and the fluid is also not low, then your floating caliper mechanism is rusty, sticking and your brakes will prematurely be destroyed. The pins that hold the caliper and allow it to freely slide (float) must be free of rust, greased and sealed in rubber bellows. Most mechanics never bother to check them. They just throw fresh pads and rotors on it which is the stupidest move possible. The rubber cracks from heat and lets water in which displaces the lubricant and causes rust that prevents the floating calipers from moving freely. The fix for this problem is to visit Dodge dealer to buy a $15 caliper mounting pin and rubber bellow hard parts kit. I would also suggest buying the $12 pad spring kit. These parts are likely rusted and need cleaned & greased or simply replaced. These cheap parts are the cause for stuck brakes that prematurely wear out every 10K miles instead of normally (every 25K mi or so).
A wise owner will insist that the mechanic change the pad springs, caliper mounting pins and rubber bellows during every single brake job and make sure the pin mating hole in the caliper is properly cleaned out and filled with grease. Otherwise the brake system may not operate properly and problems will get worse.
When working properly, the brakes will growl for the first couple brakes after a rain or car wash. The rotors will get a coating of rust on them overnight that needs buffed off by the pads. This causes growl.
If you have sustained intermittent squeaks that continue after the first couple stops and you've confirmed with a flashlight the brake pads have adequate thickness and the fluid is also not low, then your floating caliper mechanism is rusty, sticking and your brakes will prematurely be destroyed. The pins that hold the caliper and allow it to freely slide (float) must be free of rust, greased and sealed in rubber bellows. Most mechanics never bother to check them. They just throw fresh pads and rotors on it which is the stupidest move possible. The rubber cracks from heat and lets water in which displaces the lubricant and causes rust that prevents the floating calipers from moving freely. The fix for this problem is to visit Dodge dealer to buy a $15 caliper mounting pin and rubber bellow hard parts kit. I would also suggest buying the $12 pad spring kit. These parts are likely rusted and need cleaned & greased or simply replaced. These cheap parts are the cause for stuck brakes that prematurely wear out every 10K miles instead of normally (every 25K mi or so).
A wise owner will insist that the mechanic change the pad springs, caliper mounting pins and rubber bellows during every single brake job and make sure the pin mating hole in the caliper is properly cleaned out and filled with grease. Otherwise the brake system may not operate properly and problems will get worse.