Window Motor Popped Open, Wound Up Cable
1997 Chrysler Town & Country LXi
Daughter tried to "snug up" the window due to some noise, window went down instead of up. Stayed down. Can hear something turning, that's it.
Got it all taken apart (those 2 "hidden" screws in the door panel are kinda sneaky) and that water shield makes me want to choke someone. Got the water shield off without destroying it COMPLETELY, using putty knife and blow drier.
Here's a pic of what I have:
(Do DropBox links not work?)

Questions:
* If I buy a regulator with motor is that all I need (or is there a "limit" switch or something like that that may have failed)?
* Any reason I can't replace myself? I did do a complete evaporator repair last year myself (with help from this forum)
* What should I use to re-attach that water shield?
Thanks much.
Roger
Daughter tried to "snug up" the window due to some noise, window went down instead of up. Stayed down. Can hear something turning, that's it.
Got it all taken apart (those 2 "hidden" screws in the door panel are kinda sneaky) and that water shield makes me want to choke someone. Got the water shield off without destroying it COMPLETELY, using putty knife and blow drier.
Here's a pic of what I have:
(Do DropBox links not work?)
Questions:
* If I buy a regulator with motor is that all I need (or is there a "limit" switch or something like that that may have failed)?
* Any reason I can't replace myself? I did do a complete evaporator repair last year myself (with help from this forum)
* What should I use to re-attach that water shield?
Thanks much.
Roger
Last edited by PCRoger; Jun 30, 2013 at 12:17 PM.
Been through something very similar myself. If the cable hasn't frayed yet, chances are it's close. Mine had 3 strands snap that twisted up in itself and eventually prevented the window from rolling up. Had to replace the entire regulator system due to how it's constructed. Not very hard - followed Haynes and did both doors since the passenger side eventually would fail in one way or another. Youtube has some videos for your vehicle that might be helpful as well.
As far as I know, no limit switch. Will just need an entire regulator (Rockauto, Amazon, etc.). Would get DORMAN or better brand - buy cheapest aftermarket brand and you may be doing this job again eventually. As for the water barrier, i just used duck tape to seal the edges after pressing back into place.
As far as I know, no limit switch. Will just need an entire regulator (Rockauto, Amazon, etc.). Would get DORMAN or better brand - buy cheapest aftermarket brand and you may be doing this job again eventually. As for the water barrier, i just used duck tape to seal the edges after pressing back into place.
Of course OEM may be best, but usually at twice the price. I believe mine were Dorman brand and I replaced them about 2 years ago or so. Have had no issues since. I guess it depends on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle. Being a 97, I am not sure it is worth replacing some things with OEM given the age of the vehicle and the prices for Mopar parts.
Window regulator assembly is all you need. Motor is included. Biggest pains are the well nuts securing the motor to the frame and fishing the side rails in and out. You will likely destroy the well nuts. Get them cheap at Lowes or just use nuts and washers. As stated, the videos will help. Vapor shield should re-stick itself otherwise use heavy duty duct tape. Compared to an evaporator it's a walk in the park.
This Dorman product fixed me up, came with new well nuts and some new pop-in attachments for the door panel:
Dorman 741-550 Front Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Select Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Models : Amazon.com : Automotive
thanks for the help
thanks for the help


