Little to no heat
I have a 2002 caravan se 3.3. Its a new to me van.
Tranny and engine are great.Van drove great on the 2 1/2hr drive home just little (while at idle) heat and no heat at 55mph.
Rad had a leak so I changed out the rad, cap,and thermostat with new parts.
Its a bit warmer at idle but nothing at speed.
Heater core hoses both get hot and Van shows no sign of over heating.My gauge has not gone past the 1/2 way mark yet.I even removed the heater core line partially while the engine was running and found a good flow and no air.lol
Heat control dial does nothing.Air stays the same temp weather dial is cold or hot. I went to the scrap yard and changed out the climate control module and no change.
The windows only start to fog up after an hour but the windows are all closed except drivers ,open about 3".Its is cold and raining or snowing here.
I want good heat but am out of ideas as of what to do.Any suggestions would be appreciated.?..?
Tranny and engine are great.Van drove great on the 2 1/2hr drive home just little (while at idle) heat and no heat at 55mph.
Rad had a leak so I changed out the rad, cap,and thermostat with new parts.
Its a bit warmer at idle but nothing at speed.
Heater core hoses both get hot and Van shows no sign of over heating.My gauge has not gone past the 1/2 way mark yet.I even removed the heater core line partially while the engine was running and found a good flow and no air.lol
Heat control dial does nothing.Air stays the same temp weather dial is cold or hot. I went to the scrap yard and changed out the climate control module and no change.
The windows only start to fog up after an hour but the windows are all closed except drivers ,open about 3".Its is cold and raining or snowing here.
I want good heat but am out of ideas as of what to do.Any suggestions would be appreciated.?..?
did you calibrate the new control head? Try that first and see what you get.
I'm sure this is posted on here quite a bit but here we go again
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CONTROL CALIBRATION
The heater-A/C control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced. If the vehicle is so equipped, the calibration procedure also includes rear HVAC positions for each actuator motor.
Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds. The manual heater-A/C control power Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
The calibration procedure should take less than two minutes to complete for the manual heater-A/C control, and less than twenty seconds for the ATC heater-A/C control. When the LEDs or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the normal three minute (manual) or twenty second (ATC) calibration time, it indicates that the heater-A/C control has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use a DRBIII® scan tool to perform further diagnosis. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. The LEDs or graphics will continue to flash even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until a successful calibration is completed or until the vehicle has been driven about 13 kilometers (8 miles).
I'm sure this is posted on here quite a bit but here we go again
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CONTROL CALIBRATION
The heater-A/C control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced. If the vehicle is so equipped, the calibration procedure also includes rear HVAC positions for each actuator motor.
Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds. The manual heater-A/C control power Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
The calibration procedure should take less than two minutes to complete for the manual heater-A/C control, and less than twenty seconds for the ATC heater-A/C control. When the LEDs or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the normal three minute (manual) or twenty second (ATC) calibration time, it indicates that the heater-A/C control has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use a DRBIII® scan tool to perform further diagnosis. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. The LEDs or graphics will continue to flash even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until a successful calibration is completed or until the vehicle has been driven about 13 kilometers (8 miles).
Yes, I did recalibrate after right after install was complete.Works same as the original.
I can hear the actuator but there is no change in temp what so ever.
I am going to attempt to take it out and get another.I may wait for the snow to slow down first.lol
There goes the plow.
Winter! Bah Hum..........
I can hear the actuator but there is no change in temp what so ever.
I am going to attempt to take it out and get another.I may wait for the snow to slow down first.lol
Winter! Bah Hum..........
The light on the display did keep flashing.
I removed the actuator to see if I could feel any resistance turning it by hand.
Nothing but the piece the actuator fits into. I can feel no rod inside turning those doors.
I am guessing, crying,jumping up and down, pulling my hair out and all that other stuff that I have to remove the dash and airbox to fix this .
Is there a step by step guide online for this?
Does anyone have a diagram of what is beyond the sleeve the actuator fits into?An airbox diagram.
I removed the actuator to see if I could feel any resistance turning it by hand.
Nothing but the piece the actuator fits into. I can feel no rod inside turning those doors.
I am guessing, crying,jumping up and down, pulling my hair out and all that other stuff that I have to remove the dash and airbox to fix this .
Is there a step by step guide online for this?
Does anyone have a diagram of what is beyond the sleeve the actuator fits into?An airbox diagram.
What a dumb design.That should be criminal.
To bury such a poorly designed door so deep.Dodge cannot even get me just the mode door.They said I have to buy the air box including the actuators to get the door.$500
I can order a ram mode door and even a 300 but I cannot get a caravan door.WTF!!
Does anyone know where I can get a new door?
I can order a ram mode door and even a 300 but I cannot get a caravan door.WTF!!
Does anyone know where I can get a new door?
Last edited by northernguy; Nov 25, 2013 at 03:20 PM.
That's a bummer, just threw one away, been sitting in my stall for about a year and figured I'd never use it. Anything with an air distribution housing you can't get parts for, so Journey, Nitro, Caravan, etc. If you need removal instructions, PM me your email address and I can send them to you.
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Thanks Tizzy. The info you sent was very helpful.The van is back together and working fine.
My heater mode door snapped at the gear. Thanks to JB Weld(clear weld) ,a 3" bolt, and a dab of loctite.Its all fixed and heating as it should.
My heater mode door snapped at the gear. Thanks to JB Weld(clear weld) ,a 3" bolt, and a dab of loctite.Its all fixed and heating as it should.


