I was checking resistance from the starter relay to the corresponding PCM connector pins.

The first check was terminal 85 of starter relay which corresponded to dk grn/orange wire (I forgot which pin). I didn't check it against any other pins.

However, it was suggested to check starter relay terminal 87 as well. I didn't make note of the PCM pin number to compare so I just starting checking pins. I have resistance at several pins namely (perhaps more, I stopped checking):

2 K18 16DB/OR (3.3L/3.8L) IGNITION COIL NO. 3 DRIVER
3 K17 16DB/TN IGNITION COIL NO. 2 DRIVER
50 Z131 18BK/DG GROUND
56 VT/YL SPEED CONTROL VACUUM SOLENOID CONTROL
62 B29 18DG/WT SECONDARY BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL

Can anyone explain what the deal is?

 

Have you had a severe battery acid discharge in the recent past? Like within the last year? As in acid/water washed over the tray and onto the wiring harness under the battery tray?

 

Thanks, TNtech.

I haven't had the vehicle too long. I flipped the IPM and didn't see much out of the ordinary. Everything else seems fine electrically. When the steering fluid reservoir overflowed the vehicle shut down immediately. Then one morning it started up like nothing happened. I drove it that once, parked it and it returned to a no crank state.

I've been trying to trace the wires to a common bundle where I might discover a short. It's been very frustrating. Could a bad ground cause this type of result?

 

I discovered an aftermarket remote start and alarm system (PS-3125 Polar Start) on the caravan and started removing it.

The only part that has me hung up is the CHDL1BPK bypass kit for the key transponder system (SKIM/SKREEM or whatever the heck they want to call it). It has wires that are wrapped around the key cylinder. *UPDATE: I removed it.

I did not find a relay to disable the starter in the system. The key fob still works with the doors, but I still have the no crank condition and the security light does not go off (blinks once) on the instrument cluster.

Any advice on removing this or anything else I should consider?

 

Okay, WTH!

I was testing for continuity at a connector to to the injectors, the brown and white wire with the brown and white wire at the PCM connector.

There was continuity with

pin 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 18, 20, 46, 50, 56, 59, 62, 63, 64, 66, 67, 72, 73, 74, 80

When I made the connection to pin 73 the fan started.

Why? ASD relay wire? Ground? Am I missing something or does this point to the problem or not?

I am not an expert but learn quickly if someone can point me in the right direction here it would be appreciated.

 

Yup, it was the flipping PCM. I found one from a guy parting out a GC and, although the PCM numbers didn't match, everything functioned perfectly.

HOWEVER, the Caravan would start once I charged the battery enough, but it would die after a few seconds. I believe I'm in the 5 try lockdown and it won't crank, once again!

My question is this, although the numbers don't match, can I still take it to be programmed with my VIN considering everything functions? Or, is there something I may be missing that I am not aware of?

I'm also wondering if I could swap out the key cylinder, the skim and use the keys from the scrap caravan?

Can I reset the lockdown without a DRB-III? I've tried the key in the door and disconnecting the battery (although not for too long).

***UPDATE*** I was told by a service adviser at a dealership that PCMs cannot be reprogrammed to a new SKIM module, but if you take the accompanying SKIM along with it, you would be able to reprogram the keys to work with it. I was also told that to reset the lockdown you can leave the key in the 'on' position, with a battery charger, for over an hour (I pulled the fuse to the fuel pump). It didn't seem to work, but this may be due to the fact that I don't have the right SKIM module in the car.

 

Sounds like you're getting hammered by the SKIM system. I thankfully don't have any first-hand experience with it, but know it's caused other DIYers hair to catch fire in the past. Do you really care about having SKIM (how likely is it for someone to want to rip off your 2003 van)? If you don't care about it, how about removing or just unplugging the SKIM module and finding a PCM on a junk 2003 van without skim? Yes, it's hit or miss without flashing the PCM to the specific VIN, but I've read some ugly stories from DIY folks trying to get SKIM to work, and ending up forking over lots of $$$ to a dealer to get it fixed. Apparently the magic trick of getting the SKIM module, keys, and PCM all talking to each other can only happen at a dealership, or another outfit that has DRB-III and knows how to do this job

 

If your van has SKIM, you CAN put in a used PCM...BUT, you will have to have someone with DRBIII or Witech to go into the SKIM module menu and do a "PCM REPLACED". You will also need the SKIM PIN from the dealer.


IF the used PCM van did NOT have SKIM, you're out of luck. If it DID have SKIM you're golden.








This too. I've had some "recyclers" tell me they've done a few, but I never heard their stories of the ones that went wrong.

 

Thanks TNTech. It's been mostly crickets in my post, but I have been keeping the topic open in the hopes of helping others.

One of the service advisors I spoke to today said that they have had only about 30% success rate of reprogramming used PCMs. The nice thing is, if they can't, they'll only charge a nominal fee. But, there are towing charges to consider.

They stated, as well, that all Caravans have SKIM modules, it's just a matter of whether or not it's been activated at the PCM. If that's the case, I wonder if it would work to grab the used SKIM? I just tried unplugging the SKIM on mine, fuel pump still works but no crank.

 

That's exactly what one would expect from a PCM with SKIM active, otherwise it would be that easy for the bad guys to defeat the system. It would only have a chance of working with a no-SKIM PCM.
You would also either need one of the original grey keys from that same van, or a trip to the dealer for programming a new one. Beyond that, it's hard to say what the chances of it working are. The PCM web sites always program the ones they sell, but some DIYers have said a u-pull worked for them without reprogramming. If they have a matching grey key and the price of the key+module is ok, seems like it's worth rolling the dice on this.