NOTE: it looks like "another copy and paste", but was written on my own experience; I just presenting it in a "work instruction" form; if anyone is interested I will post more of actual challenges I faced while doing this procedure (it took 2 and 1/2 hours, thanks to the stuck spark plug and dirty valve cover):
Raw unedited videos are here:
Tools:
10 mm socket
8mm deep socket
13 mm socket
10 mm box end wrench
Flat screwdriver(s)
Ratchet and extensions
Pry bar or equvalent
Syringe and thin clear tubing, 1 foot long (to siphon oil from spark plug wells)
Torque wrench (200 inch pounds)
Spark plug socket, 3/8 “ID flexible hose (for spark plugs)
Magnet flash light and mirror
8 mm nut driver (optional)
Materials:
Polyethylene bag
Rags Isopropyl alcohol
Toyota FIPG sealant or equivalent
Parts
Intake plenum gasket
Valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Some materials and tools could be added in text
Procedure:
1. On air cleaner:
• Unplug air intake temperature sensor
• Remove fresh air PCV hose
• Loose worm clamp (8mm nut driver) and remove element assembly
2. On intake plenum:
• Unlock and disconnect MAP sensor connector
• Idle air control valve connector
• TP switch connector
• Accelerator and cruise cables from bell crank
• Accelerator cable bracket from throttle body (two 10 mm bolts)
• 2 Vacuum lines from vacuum boss (back side of the plenum)
• EVAP purge hose
• Plenum to valve cover bracket bolt (13 mm head)
• Accelerator cable and vacuum line hanger from plenum
• Oil dipstick
• 5 plenum to intake manifold bolts (10 mm)
Insert breaker bar handle (or equivalent) between throttle body to plenum flange and valve cover and pry it up breaking loose plenum from intake manifold.
Separate PCV valve hose from plenum. Cover intake runners in manifold with plastic bag.

3. On the valve cover:
• Separate high tension cords from the plugs
• Remove the fresh air PCV hose from the back of the cover
• Remove cord #3 from coil to expose feed power connector
• Unlock and remove feed power harness from coil
• Undo 4 coil to valve cover bolts (10mm heads); it is not necessary to completely remove them from the coil (2 long screws on the back 2 short ones are on the front); remove entire coil assembly with 3 high tension cords attached
• Remove valve cover to plenum bracket nut 10 mm and bracket
• Loosen 9 valve cover to head bolts (8 mm deep socket, because of the bracket stud); it is not necessary to remove bolts and stud from cover
• Cover front of the van with protective towel, rag, etc., take away the valve cover and turn it upside down; pull the gasket and spark plug tube seals from the cover (the cover can be cleaned or washed at this time)
4. The head:
• Using syringe siphon oil from the spark plug wells
• Clean the warnish and sludge from the upper surface of the spark plug tubes in the head (until aluminum shows up using alcohol , rags or appropriate solvent)
• Remove and replace the spark plugs; if plug is stuck use appropriate procedure to remove it to avoid breakage. Torque to specks
• Scrape the RTV from the gasket sealing surface as needed
• Clean the gasket surface until aluminum shows up.
For assembly:
1. Place new gasket and spark plug tube seals in the valve cover
2. Apply FIPG to the cylinder head as indicated by the manual
3. Place valve cover on the head
4. Tighten cover to head bolts in 3 steps; for torque values and sequence refer to manual
5. Attach the fresh air PCV hose to the back of the cover
6. Install coil assembly; attach power feed wires to coil and lock connector
7. Hook up high tension cords
8. Loosely install valve cover to plenum bracket (10 mm nut)
9. Clean the plenum mating surface
10. Remove protective bag and clean the manifold mating surface
11. Place new gasket on the manifold
12. Position plenum on the gasket while attaching PCV valve hose to the plenum.
13. Double check position of the gasket; start plenum top manifold bolts by hand
14. Install plenum to the support bracket bolt (13 mm head)
15. Tighten plenum to manifold bolts (10 mm heads); refer to manual for torque values and tightening sequence
16. Tighten plenum bracket bolt (13 mm) and nut (10mm)
17. Attach throttle and cruise control cables to the bell crank
18. Secure cable bracket to the throttle body with 2 blots, (10 mm heads)
19. Attach 3 remaining vacuum hoses to the plenum
20. Attach TP sensor, idle air control and MAP sensor connector; lock the idle air control and MAP sensor connectors
21. Install cable supporting hanger to the plenum
22. Check the operation of accelerator pedal
23. Install air cleaner housing and connect it to the throttle body; tighten the worm clamp (8 mm nut driver)
24. Attach air intake temperature sensor connector
25. Hook up the fresh air PCV hose to the air cleaner housing
26. Start the engine and check for leaks

 

What is that link supposed to do? It does not show anything but the main forum page.

 

If you click on the "YouTube (Playlists)" at the top of the image it brings you to a YouTube page with links to 13 videos.

 

Thanks for the info. I will be doing this to my 2006.

 

Let me list all the challenges I faced (and overcome) while doing repair:
1) Factory assembly uses RTV between the plenum and lower intake; we bought the steel gasket (RTV can be used instead; Permatex Ultra Blue for example has superior flexibility and relatively easy to clean up; it should NOT be used with valve cover gasket as it is NOT adhering to rubber strong enough) in our case the factory RTV deterirated creating minute vacuum leaks.
2) on large flat aluminum surfaces I used homemade knife blade cutter that wedged between RTV and aluminum, lifting the RTV layer;
3) I lost lot of time as well by using hand tools (ratchet and such) on removal of valve cover attaching bolts; you can speed up the process use 90 degree drill/driver or equivalent.
4) The head has sharp edges where around the valve cover gasket sealing surface! Do not rub them with your finger (I cut myself twice!!)