I see a not-running heater/AC fan is common. I have done lots of searches and tried all the suggestions.

I did not get the 12V power in the resistor, so I replaced that, still didn't work. Fuse looks OK. I switched out another relay (rear defogger) for the front blower relay and still didn't work.

Fan works - if I run 12V directly to it, it runs.

Again, no voltage at the resistor. If the youtube videos are right, it is the left most wire coming in that should be 12V vs. ground, and it isn't.

Here's what I observed: When the blower speed **** is off and I have my multimeter as an ohmmeter, there is huge resistance from the wires to ground, but when I turn the **** to any of the speeds, the resistance goes to zero against any of the five wires going into the resistor.

When I move the vent selector ****, I can hear the blend door move.

Any suggestions about what I should try?

 

which vehicle?

 

Looking at a '03 manual, Fuse 20, 25 amp in IPM.

You will only get blower motor power with ignition switch turned to RUN.
Power is applied to one side of the motor on a DARK GREEN WIRE. The resistors are tied to ground on one side thru the speed switch and to the blower motor on the other side thru splice S224 on a BLACK/TAN WIRE.

 

Thanks Friar. Forgot to mention it was 2006 caravan (after selecting 4th gen for the thread, but that isn't enough).

Fuse looks OK.

Motor runs when 12V applied to the dark green wire to the blower motor. The problem is that the resistor isn't getting any power, even though it appears it responds to the selector switch moving, as demonstrated by the resistance going to zero when moved.

All this happens with the key in the run position.

Not sure what you mean by "splice S224 on a black/tan wire" I will look at the resistor to see if there a black/tan wire going into the resistor.

 

the splice is where 2 or more wires become 1, kinda like a wedding!

 

are you saying that you have to jumper 12 volts to the blower to get it to run? There should be 12 volts on the blower when the ignition switch is turned on.
The only power that the resistor pack sees comes from the connection to the blower motor.


Different year, different wire color. I can't say for the '06 caravan, don't have an '06 manual.

 

If there is 12V on the blower when the ignition switch is on, wouldn't the fan be running all the time? As soon as I manually apply 12V to the blower, it runs (at full speed).

I fixed it with a total kludge: The hot wire coming into the resistor (the right most wire of the 5-wire pigtail looking straight at it) had no power. I ran a wire (yes, "spliced" - I just wasn't familiar with the splice location terminology, although google helped me to a certain extent with that; still never foudn where "S224" is though) from the 12V power outlet (i.e. cig-lighter outlet) to this position on the resistor (another splice), and it worked. I have full control of the four speeds from the console.

I believe there is a smaller fuse on the 12V power outlet than the fan blower so I will see if this is a long term solution or not. I only use the 12V power to charge a cell phone which is not a large draw.

 

Up in the DIY section, probably the second post, is a wiring diagram for your blower motor. If the fuse isn't blown, does it have power? Yes = open wire between the fuse and the resistor. No = check relay terminals for power. Power or no power there probably means new PDC since everything between the 2 is internal. I would suggest trying to repair it. The wire from the power outlet is too small and will eventually have a meltdown if run to the blower motor.

 

Not sure where the "DIY section" is. I'll keep looking.

Fuse isn't blown. But no power at the fan or resistor. Tested as shown in this video:
I am not sure which if the relay terminals I should check to see if there is power. I did switch out one of the other same-size relays into the blower motor relay and that still didn't work. Didn't seem worth it to buy a new relay since the relay itself probably is working.

A new PDC probably isn't worth it for this old vehicle.

Thanks for the heads up on the wire being undersized. I was worried about that. I will grab power from another larger wire. Which wire is that? Well, the heater core went on this vehicle a couple of years ago (I bypassed it in the engine compartment so the glycol fumes don't leak into the cabin), so I got one those 12V heater fans. Pretty anemic for the amount of amps x volts that are available, but it does the trick when I need defrosting. However, I had to run a new 12V receptacle since the fuse kept blowing. So I ran a new 12V recepticle straight from the battery to the blank receptacle location below the stock one. Yes, I put a fuse in line!

I will splice into that (much thicker) wire to get my power for the fan.

 

Here's the DIY that Tizzy1 referred to. Look at post #4:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...formation.html


NOTE: The diagram in this link shows a 6-pin connector, unlike your 5-pin.


No, the fan wouldn't run all the time if the blower switch is OFF.