howdy folks,

So I have a 98 grand caravan 3.8 auto trans 2wd 220,000 miles it is showing 4 codes, only the check engine light is on, however the temp gauge is always a sliver above the cold mark.

p0117 engine coolant temp circuit low input
p1493 Ambient battery temp sensor input voltage too low
p1391 Intermittent loss of cmp or ckp
p0600 Serial communication link malfunction

The van was running fine with the check light engine light on, traveling down the interstate is when it first gave me an issue other than just shutting off which i have been attributing to the dash computer being bad. As I was doing 70mph it started to hiccup like it was about to run out of gas very faint then it would go away few miles later it would return. I managed to finish out my trip there and back with little issue however the next day it would barely drive and sputtered and bucked like it was about to die when ever i would give it gas leaving a stop light.

the Crank and cam shaft sensors were replaced a little over a year ago so i am hoping the p1391 is not a flex plate issue. what my question is, could the p0117 engine coolant temp circuit low input be the cause of the sputtering as well. I ask due to finding it listed as a symptom of a bad coolant temp sensor on a couple of other sites but I trust you guys more.

Other things of note.
The van does have an issue with the dash/alarm that is problematic from time to time where it wont light up or start, but generally a good wack on the dash and that is solved.

I did just change out the upper radiator hose and thermostat a week ago.

listening to the van run it does not make any metalic noise or horrible sound like i would expect from having a cracked flexed plate. Also Ive never pulled the inspection plate on a tranny will i need to catch a bunch of fluid or is this above the full line. im waiting for the rain to stop to go pull the cover now.


thanks for any help guys if you want more info just ask.

 

"what my question is, could the p0117 engine coolant temp circuit low input be the cause of the sputtering as well."

> According to this, yes: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0117

"The van does have an issue with the dash/alarm that is problematic from time to time where it wont light up or start, but generally a good wack on the dash and that is solved."

> Good bet you have cracked solder joints on the instrument cluster circuit board effecting the PCI data bus. All too common on 3rd generation 96-2000 vans. Your dash smack fix is a clear indication.

> A P0600 is more often than not caused by an internal fault in the PCM requiring replacement. That said, some have driven for years with this fault.

 

thank you Cougar, I did find that site, as well as another. I did change the ECT (striped one of the thermostat bolt holes doing it) and get it all put back together. the van runs... better. It does still stutter a little and the temp gauge is still frozen at 1/16th warm. Now since it does have the whack-a-dash electronics issue could you tell me or direct me to what exactly I am looking for? Is it just cracked solder in general or is there a specific pin cluster on the instrument panel itself or is it a control box or board in the dash? I have used a heat gun to fix an Xbox solder issue, thought maybe that could work here.

Also of note since every time i work on this P.O.S. I end up stripping a nut, bolt, or, a hole. When I put the new ECT in it is not fully screwed down like the OEM was. There is another turn and a half to go, is this normal? It is tightened to the point I am afraid to tighten any more for fear of stripping out yet another hole or snapping the brass sensor in half. *Thought* I could take it out and check the tapper however I really do not want to mess with the Thermostat again!

Any thoughts?

 

Solder joints > It's the dozen or so solder joints securing the connector to the circuit board in the instrument cluster. You may or may not be able to see the cracks even with a magnifier so it's best to just reflow all of them. Go to YouTube for a number of videos on the subject. Once at Youtube type in "Chrysler Instrument Cluster Repair" in the search bar. You'll see several but that's the one I like.

ECT > I don't know if it will function as designed with it not completely screwed in. 1 1/2 turns doesn't wound like much. If it's not leaking I would drive it for a while and see how it goes. If you want to get it all the way in I would soak it with penetrating oil for a few hours then remove it and inspect the threads. If you see damage you may get away with just using a tap and die to repair them. May be best to have a shop look at it.

 

Thanks for the help, thing I conformed it is the flex plate today when it sputtered out, finally died, and wouldn't restart. So