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[3rd Gen : 96-00]: 99 Grand Caravan sway bar advice needed

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Old 03-17-2018, 07:41 AM
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BigRed92
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Default 99 Grand Caravan sway bar advice needed

I apologize if this has been asked before, but I searched and could not find it. I have a 99 Grand Caravan 3.3l multi fuel, automatic, has around 150k on it.
The problem I am having is that I have a consistent vibration from the front end between 50mph to approx 68-70mph, not just a little 'shimmy' but almost about halfway to 'death wobble'. I replaced the stabilizer bar links on both sides last weekend, vibration used to be from 45mph and up, did not go away as I accelerated above 65mph (as bad as it was shaking, I was reluctant to go over 65 for fear of doing more damage). Purchased the car knowing it had front end issues, the seller (my exwife) told me it was either sway bar or sway bar links. Vehicle used to be owned by my ex father in law who was a machinist, so I trust his wrenchwork. When I replaced the links, I was trying to save money and didn't buy MOOGs or anything, the ones I got were around $20 ea. Now, when I accelerate, the front end vibrates between 50mph to 67, or 68mph. Above 68mph it smooths out considerably, but you can still feel it in the steering wheel to a much lesser degree. I have already rotated tires front to back, to no effect. Put vehicle in neutral when vibration starts and coast, and it continues, so that eliminates driveline, correct? Also, vibration is less by about 40-50% when going through moderate left or right curves on the highway. During curves, you can still feel a 'pulse' in the steering wheel.

When I looked under the front end and started shaking and pulling things, the stabilizer links were the only obvious thing that was bad... lots of slop, interior bushings were crumbling apart. Nothing else on the front suspension looked obviously bad, just by visual inspection and pushing/pulling on parts. Struts where tight, tugged wheel at 3 & 9 oclock positions with no play, so that means tie rod ends are good, correct? Tugged wheel at 12 and 6 oclock positions, so wheel bearings are good, correct? Raised wheel about 3" off the ground, put a prybar underneath wheel and tried to raise it up and down with no slop there either, so that eliminates ball joints... correct?

Question 1 - should I have ponied up the $$ and gone with Moogs, or could you guys recommend another 'good' brand. Wondering if the 'lesser brand' could be my problem. Both the ones I bought have zerk fittings, so i pumped in just enough grease until it just barely came out of from under the rubber caps.

Question 2- I had to do this working on the street because of the town I live in.... If they see you doing more than a tire or oil change, its a $75 ticket, so I did one side at a time. My neighbors are kinda ******, so they would have called the cops on me if I jacked the front end up and started working on it. So... when replacing the links, I removed 1 side's old link, then I inserted the top bolt, finger tight, put the jack underneath the lower 'A Frame?" and used the jack to adjust up and down until I could get bottom bolt in. Then I torqued everything to spec. Then turned car around so driver's side was closest to sidewalk and did the same to driver's side. ............ Should I have raised both wheels off the ground at the same time to do this, or does it really matter??

Question 3 - short of taking it to a front end shop, how can I tell if the stabilizer bar itself is bad?

I was thinking of replacing stabilizer link bushings next, but they really dont look all that bad, and I am trying to fix this without 'guessing and throwing new parts at it"

Again, I apologize if this has already been asked and answered, but I could not find anything for 3rd Gen Grand Caravan. Also apologize for being long winded, but I wanted to cover as much relevant info as I could.

ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am spinning my wheels figuring out what this is, but I admit I am not the greatest on front end work.

Thanks a lot for any suggestions you can offer.

Mike
 



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