I bought a 2001 2.4 L caravan with 140000 miles. The van ran good, but someone who looked at it before I bought it, did not seat the radiator cap and the van overheated badly and warped the head, blowing the head gasket.
I have repaired the warping down to .002 and given it a new head gasket, timing belt, water pump. The engine started fine and ran fine until the temperature reached normal temps, then it will stall upon stopping. I replaced the IAV, no luck, replaced the PCM (due to 601 code or 602), no luck. EGR replaced, no luck. I guess I will try the TPS next.
If I open the IAV slightly and install without electric connection, the car doesn't stall, but does idle a bit rough. The CEL cleared after the new PCM was installed, and hasn't thrown a code on the disconnected IAV ...yet.
Any insight would be appreciated, I am tired of throwing money at it.

 

I tried a new tps sensor, and it's still dying on decelleration

 

Pulled the camshaft sensor off and it crumbled apart from being cooked, Put out for a new one, and installed, but the stalling continues...plugs next I suppose.

 

So the PCM and these sensors are new.(TPS, IAC, EGR, Camshaft Pos Sensor)
I looked at the Crankshaft sensor and saw damage or obstructions.
I recleaned the throttle body, paying special attention to the IAC port.
I unplugged the MAP sensor, and the CEL came on, so I assume that is functioning.

Driving with the IAC slightly open and unplugged, triggers no codes?!
I've got 2, and symptoms identical on both.

Here are some anomolies which may help in troubleshooting.
The air conditioning turns on when you start the car, regardless of status when you turn engine off.
The AC also does not work, blows warm, but it was cooling when I purchased.
The car has trouble idleing when AC on, so I leave it off.
Reverse gear engine struggles to stay running, and often stalls
Radio play is intermittent.
Horn don't work
bulb out on fuel instrument cluster
headlights seem newer than car,(clean and no film) and the mounting screws, don't catch, but just gravity rest in place, surprising me to hold the lights fairly snug.

Havent run across any bad fuses.... but haven't check all of them yet.

Thinking for next steps
plugs
fuel filter
checking instrument panel for damage youtu.be/9OwrhVOHe1Y
disassembly to timing belt to re-examing tdc marks

Ready to take to dealer for a diagnosis. May save $ in long run.

Need some input from more experienced moparians, much appreciated in advance... Hello?

 

If you put it in neutral when slowing down or are stopped, does the problem go away? If so, it would point to a torque converter that isn't unlocking when it's supposed to.

 

I don't think that is the issue,
I started the van when cold and let it warm up some and when the idle starts to decrease, I unplugged the Idle Control Valve so it stays in a partially open position. This prevents the stalls and the car idles ok, a bit shaky, but no stalls. Unless reversing with a cold engine.; Not an issue until I put on the head gasket. I am receiving a diagnostics app tomorrow and will post data here, and will also attempt your method, which I think I did, and it still stalled, but will repeat for sanity check. THANKS for replying,

 

https://inspacecoast.com/car-diagnostics/
These readings were taken at normal operating temperature, idling while the vehicle was in park.
The link above displays diagnostic screen shots from an 327 device. There is one shot that is blank, which should have displayed Bank 1 Sensor 2% if I recall correctly. Please have a gander, I am a shade tree mechanic and haven't the knowledge to decipher these results, but feel they may be helpful.

 

Have you checked all of the vacuum connections or better yet, gotten a vacuum reading at idle?

 

I used propane around all the vacuum hoses and could not detect any fluctuation in the RPM, but I'll see if I can't get a proper gauge to test them with.

 

Would this be a symptom of the timing belt being off by one tooth?