Let me know what else to check. thank you.

 

Before continuing, are you certain the multi-meter probe actually made contact with the metal inside of the connector at pin #2? Depending on the shape of the connector, sometimes the meter probe is too fat, and can't get in far enough to contact the metal inside of the connector. So if there is any question about that contact, then slide a thin solid wire into the connector in order to make sure of the connection. You want to make certain the contact is being made, because troubleshooting wire bundles can be a PITA, and you don't want to do that work unless it's really necessary.

If you're certain that the probe is making contact, and you're not seeing battery voltage, then something in that ground is bad. The first thing to check is the connection of the black wire going into the connector. Sometimes wires get fatigued over time, especially if the connector has been undone a number of times. I've seen wires break inside of the plastic covering insulation, and you can't tell it's broken just by looking at it.

If you can't find anything wrong at the connector, then check the connection of the actual body ground, which in this case is attached at the starter motor. You need do as much checking as you can on the 2 ends of the ground, because the next step is to unbundle the wiring, which can be quite a bit of work.

 

I got it working and I don't know if its permanent or temporary. I took the clutch relay and connected pig tails on 85 and 86 which is the control to see if when I turned the A/C on I could get a reading on each pin. I turned the car on with the A/C running. I don't remember what the reading were on each wire, but they weren't 12v. So I decided to test for continuity to see if 85 and 86 were connected..... As soon as I touched both wires with the probes, the clutch engaged. So I turned the car off, removed the pigtails and put the relay back. I started the car with the a/c on and the clutch engaged and if I turn the a/c off the clutch stops like is suppose to.

So its working now and I cant see why touching the pigtails on 85 & 86 with the probes on the continuity setting fixed it. Its seems like something in the PCM was stuck and I jump started. The A/C is cold, compressor is working, and it seems the whole issue was being caused by the PCM not connecting 85 & 86. Thank you CV2003 for your time, willingness to help some one in need. Thank you again.

 

Could be just dirty terminals, and playin' with 'em a bit got them better contact.

 

Either that or the ground wire has a fault that's causing an erratic connection.

 

The battery ground wire? I was looking on the repair manual and the expansion valve has also its own ground wire. Where would the PCM gets its ground to ground the clutch relay? I would assume is using the battery ground. I am not a mechanic and I apologies if I don't explain myself well or may seem ignorant in the way I explain things.

 

Not the battery ground, the same compressor ground that we've been discussing right along.

The fact that you're not a professional doesn't matter at all - I'm just a shade tree DIYer myself. I am however having a problem with the way you're jumping around from one thing to another, without posting complete results. In the last set of posts, we were discussing testing the compressor ground, and then you posted about jumping relay pins 85 and 86, without following up about the ground.

This diagnostic stuff needs to be done carefully and systematically, taking one step at a time and evaluating those results. So in order to make this online exchange work as it should, we need to focus on just one thing and stick with it until it's resolved. I'm not saying these things to be critical of you, because it's clear to me that you are trying to carry on a conversation (which most people do not do). And no problem if you're not up for what I've said, and decide to take it to a shop instead, because this type of auto repair is definitely not for everyone.

 

the pcm provides ground for the relay. grding the relay turns on the ac compressor. jumper that wire to grd...if the compressor turns on...you know all the other wiring to the compressor is good. either the wire the pcm grds is open or the pcm isn't providing grd. they may be reasons why the pcm is inhibiting grd.
....but easy thing to do first is verify the grd wire from the relay to pcm is good.
-ohm check the wire...unplug it at the pcm and remove the relay

 

As of now the A/C is working. I am going to give it a month and if everything keeps working I will considered fixed. If it fails again, I will try the recommendations here with more detail information and post results of voltage, ohms, and continuity. But I would like to thank everyone who spent their valuable free time helping me. Its is greatly appreciated and I hope I can do the same for others.

 

Well it lasted 5 months before the same issue occurred. The clutch stopped engaging again. Clutch relay was getting 12v on pin 30 and 85, but when I try to bypass by jumping 30 and 87, the clutch did not engage. Disconnected the plug and connected clutch directly to the battery and it engaged... so clutch is good. Made sure I was getting 12v to the compressor plug side and It was good. After all the testing, I reconnected the compressor plug back and tested it to see if it was still not working. The clutch engaged after reconnecting the plug. I know the plug was not lose and I can't seem to figure out what made it work. I am leaning towards the PCM not grounding the relay to engage the clutch. I would hate for it to be the PCM. I had the PCM replaced many years back with a rebuild one from eBay.

I don't know how to test the PCM to see if its not grounding the relay. There are no YouTube videos on that topic.