Hello everyone.
I am new here.
I have a problem with my Caravan. The 2003 3.3L flex fuel Caravan would crank, start and then stall & die when driving. I had it towed home. I replaced the fuel pump & filter but It did not fix the problem. Now when It cranks and starts it wont stall & die. I can race the engine to higher rpm and let it warm up & it doesn't stall or die. I put it in gear to go forward or reverse, drive about 20 or 30 feet then it dies. It wont crank to start again until the next day. The battery, starter, & alternator are good @12.6 + volts. I can jump the starter at the relay & it cranks but wont start This has been on going for 3 months now. Any help will be very appreciated.

 

I put a code reader on the Caravan and it shows no codes. I have no clue why it won't crank start after it stalls and dies. Does anyone have an idea? Thanks.

 

It sounds like there is either a relay that’s going bad or the related components (possibly PCM) are having intermittent power/ground problems.

Swap a known good relay (such as the horn) with the starter, fuel pump and auto shutdown (ASD) relays one at a time when the problem is present to see if it works. If so then replace that relay. If not you’ll have to start checking the power and grounds.

Does it have an anti-theft system? Are you seeing any blinking lights for it?

 

No the van does not have a anti-theft system. The key does not have a chip. I bought the van 2 years ago from a Ford dealership. They said it did not have the system for a chip key or locking door remote.
I have switched relays around with the same numbered relays since there are several. I did jump 30 and 87 on starter relay and it will crank very fast but won't start.
I took the hose off the intake and sprayed starter fluid & it ran for 2 or 3 seconds. Thanks for your reply.

 

If it’ll run by spraying starter fluid into the intake then it’s a fuel supply issue. With it not cranking when the problem is present then you need to find a common source of power for the starter and fuel pump/injectors.

 

Okay, thank you for a reply. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter. It will crank and start running. Then dies while trying to go forward or backwards. I have waited 2 days before it would crank again. Would the PCM be going bad? I don't know how to test it. The code reader I have and my son-in-law's show no codes.

 

It’s possible the PCM is going bad, but diagnosing it can get complicated if you don’t know what you’re looking for. It’s also possible the ignition switch is at fault. Unfortunately I’m not able to access or post a wiring diagram for you right now, so here’s the best I can offer:

1) You say the engine will crank by jumping pins 30 & 87 at the starter relay, so you need to know what the control side of the relay is doing when it won’t crank. When the problem is present, Remove the relay and put a test light in series between pins 85 & 86, then turn the key to the crank position. Does the test light come on?

2) We know it’s a fuel supply issue, so we need to know what the control side of the FP relay is doing. When the problem is present, put a test light in series between pins 85 & 86 of the FP relay. Turn the key to ON only - does the test light illuminate for approximately 2 seconds?

3) I’m going to SWAG (Scientific Wild *** Guess) that the answer to both these questions is no. If that’s the case, do the same test at the auto shutdown relay since that is likely the power source for both the starter and FP relays. Key off, remove the relay, put a test light in series between pins 85 & 86. Key ON only, what does the test light do?

You can try signing up for an account at autozone.com - it is free and they do provide some wiring diagrams but I don’t know for sure what all systems they cover or how detailed they are. If the test light isn’t coming on, you’re looking for the common power source for the starter, FP and ASD relays on the control side. I don’t know off the top of my head if it’s the ignition switch or the PCM, so whichever it turns out to be is where you want to be looking.

 

Thank you for your reply. I'm going to test the control side of the 3 relays that you have stated.
I'll try to get a wiring diagram from Autozone.
I'll post the results.
Again, thank you for helping me follow a direction of testing.

 

Hello, here is what I have found while starting to make the test on the starter relay. I was beginning to pull the starter relay out and the engine started cranking. I pushed it back in but it did not stop. So I pulled it on out and it quit cranking. I took my light probe tester and push the point into the #30 and a saw an arc coming from the inside. Also, the 40 amp fuse next to it was making some spark down inside the connector. I disconnected the battery and I'm going to order a used fuse relay box from ebay. I don't trust the sparking that I saw to go any further with a test. I did not have the key turn to on position. After I install the used fuse relay box. I will post the results. It has a 60 day warranty from an auto parts yard.
Thank you.

 

Definitely sounds like there’s a short to voltage inside the fuse box. Keep the negative battery cable disconnected until you replace it to prevent any potential further damage to the PCM, other components or wiring.

You should also remove the fuse box now and check for damaged/melted terminals that can’t be cleaned up. Most auto parts stores can get pigtails to replace them and they’re also available through various online stores. If you have to replace any, make sure to use heat sealed butt connectors to keep the splice protected.

Good luck.