[4th Gen : 01-07]: Fuel Pump noise from rear
#1
07-09-2019, 04:45 PM
Fuel Pump noise from rear
I've been having this electrical humming noise coming from the rear of the van for over 2 years. I only hear it when as soon as I step on the accelerator pedal (it's louder at highway speeds), and no it's not the tires lol. I been figured it was the fuel pump on it's way out because that's the only thing back there that could make a noise from even a slight touch of the accelerator pedal. Also, during this time the van is struggling to get it's speed up, like the engine is starving from lack of fuel. I checked the fuel pressure not too long ago and it seemed fine, but I don't think it would show the problem if the van is just sitting there running and not being under pressure to move a almost 4,000lbs 2003 grand caravan.
So my question is what's a good reputable store or site and brand to get a fuel pump for this van? Places like Autozone, O'Reilly, Advanced Auto is not a place I would want to get this part because this is not something I want to keep changing out because of the high failure rate from these stores, as this can be dangerous dealing with gas.. Amazon has it, but the reviews aren't good.
2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L Flex Engine
So my question is what's a good reputable store or site and brand to get a fuel pump for this van? Places like Autozone, O'Reilly, Advanced Auto is not a place I would want to get this part because this is not something I want to keep changing out because of the high failure rate from these stores, as this can be dangerous dealing with gas.. Amazon has it, but the reviews aren't good.
2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L Flex Engine
#2
07-09-2019, 07:34 PM
Are you sure it’s the fuel pump? Verify it by removing the fuel pump relay and put a fused jumper wire between pins 30 & 87 to force the pump to run.
If that verifies it, There’s nothing wrong with using aftermarket fuel pumps - failure rates depend on more than just where you buy them and Often times the OEM and aftermarket pumps are manufactured by the same companies.
Fuel pressure specs I found were 58 psi +/- 5 psi with the key on engine off. What you want to look for is whether or not it holds pressure for at least 5 minutes once the line is primed. If not, you need to determine if it’s the fuel pump, injectors or regulator causing the drop.
If that verifies it, There’s nothing wrong with using aftermarket fuel pumps - failure rates depend on more than just where you buy them and Often times the OEM and aftermarket pumps are manufactured by the same companies.
Fuel pressure specs I found were 58 psi +/- 5 psi with the key on engine off. What you want to look for is whether or not it holds pressure for at least 5 minutes once the line is primed. If not, you need to determine if it’s the fuel pump, injectors or regulator causing the drop.
#3
07-09-2019, 09:12 PM
Thanks for the reply. I said it's the fuel pump because a few times I've had somebody else drive while I sat all the way back in the 3rd seat right over the tank, and that's where it's the loudest. The sound is normal when sitting idling at the light, but once you pick up speed you start to hear it, usually around 40 mph as soon as you touch that pedal. It's dark outside right now so I will try your suggestion in the morning while i'm free. I'll have someone help me while I listen for the noise.
As far as them store chains, I've had to take back 3 alternators to autozone before I finally gotten a working one. (for a different car). That's why I asked for other options.
As far as them store chains, I've had to take back 3 alternators to autozone before I finally gotten a working one. (for a different car). That's why I asked for other options.
#4
07-09-2019, 10:00 PM
Jumping pins 30 & 87 will give the fuel pump direct battery voltage - the key might need to be on but you don’t need the engine running and as long as the jumper wire is in place, the pump will run. Direct battery voltage will bypass any control the PCM would normally use during engine operation.
I’m not going to try to convince you aftermarket is the only way, but chances are good you’ll find the same brand pump whether you’re looking online or in store. In my experience as an auto tech for an independent shop that gets their parts from Arnold Motor Supply, Delphi, Airtex, Spectra and Denso are all quality pumps that I’ve installed in several makes and models. I’m not saying they never have failures, but no part ever does regardless of who made it.
What’s important is that the installation is done correctly. Some things to make sure of:
1) the sealing areas around the ring of the tank are clean.
2) the pump is correctly seated (look for arrows or tabs that indicate correct indexing)
3) if it has one, replace the inline fuel filter
4) flush the return line while the tank is out
5) this isn’t always obvious, so for safety’s sake, do not use a shop vac to clean around the pump opening. The vapors can get sucked into the motor and be ignited by the arcing of the brushes.
I’m not going to try to convince you aftermarket is the only way, but chances are good you’ll find the same brand pump whether you’re looking online or in store. In my experience as an auto tech for an independent shop that gets their parts from Arnold Motor Supply, Delphi, Airtex, Spectra and Denso are all quality pumps that I’ve installed in several makes and models. I’m not saying they never have failures, but no part ever does regardless of who made it.
What’s important is that the installation is done correctly. Some things to make sure of:
1) the sealing areas around the ring of the tank are clean.
2) the pump is correctly seated (look for arrows or tabs that indicate correct indexing)
3) if it has one, replace the inline fuel filter
4) flush the return line while the tank is out
5) this isn’t always obvious, so for safety’s sake, do not use a shop vac to clean around the pump opening. The vapors can get sucked into the motor and be ignited by the arcing of the brushes.
#6
07-12-2019, 01:03 PM
Jumping pins 30 & 87 will give the fuel pump direct battery voltage - the key might need to be on but you don’t need the engine running and as long as the jumper wire is in place, the pump will run. Direct battery voltage will bypass any control the PCM would normally use during engine operation.
I’m not going to try to convince you aftermarket is the only way, but chances are good you’ll find the same brand pump whether you’re looking online or in store. In my experience as an auto tech for an independent shop that gets their parts from Arnold Motor Supply, Delphi, Airtex, Spectra and Denso are all quality pumps that I’ve installed in several makes and models. I’m not saying they never have failures, but no part ever does regardless of who made it.
What’s important is that the installation is done correctly. Some things to make sure of:
1) the sealing areas around the ring of the tank are clean.
2) the pump is correctly seated (look for arrows or tabs that indicate correct indexing)
3) if it has one, replace the inline fuel filter
4) flush the return line while the tank is out
5) this isn’t always obvious, so for safety’s sake, do not use a shop vac to clean around the pump opening. The vapors can get sucked into the motor and be ignited by the arcing of the brushes.
I’m not going to try to convince you aftermarket is the only way, but chances are good you’ll find the same brand pump whether you’re looking online or in store. In my experience as an auto tech for an independent shop that gets their parts from Arnold Motor Supply, Delphi, Airtex, Spectra and Denso are all quality pumps that I’ve installed in several makes and models. I’m not saying they never have failures, but no part ever does regardless of who made it.
What’s important is that the installation is done correctly. Some things to make sure of:
1) the sealing areas around the ring of the tank are clean.
2) the pump is correctly seated (look for arrows or tabs that indicate correct indexing)
3) if it has one, replace the inline fuel filter
4) flush the return line while the tank is out
5) this isn’t always obvious, so for safety’s sake, do not use a shop vac to clean around the pump opening. The vapors can get sucked into the motor and be ignited by the arcing of the brushes.
I tried it and the noise was there, but not as loud as driving it under load. Never heard of a fuel pump giving you warning signs for years, as most of the time they just die on you. Guess I'm just lucky. Thanks for the tips also. I had no plans using anything electrical while doing this job lol.