I can't seem to rectify this code.
P000D B Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 2

So far I changed both cam sensors.
Changed spark plugs
I moved the cam phasers from one head to the other.
I did a motor flush and put in full synthetic

Van is running great but i need to go through emissions.

255,000 miles

 

The PCM is seeing an excessive lag time between the commanded timing and the actual timing.

Since you already tried swapping the solenoids and it didn’t move with the swap, I think the most likely culprit is partially blocked oil passages in the oil control valve/actuator. However you don’t want to rule anything out so inspect the wiring harness for damage.

When you remove the solenoid, you can see a large hex head thru the hole in the cover - that’s the oil control valve. It threads in just like any other bolt, but the torque on it is 111 ft-lbs so expect it to be difficult. Use a half inch breaker bar if you have one but do not attempt to use an impact.

Once removed, inspect it for clogged oil passages - it’s pretty common for metal shavings/debris to plug them over time. It can be cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air.

If you don’t see any obvious blockages, clean it anyway. Try to look inside the bore of the cam and inspect for debris. If cleaning is needed, stuff a rag in the gap between the valve cover and cam actuator, spray with carb cleaner and wipe it out with a rag. I don’t recommend using compressed air in the bore because it can force debris further into the passages.

If the code is still present, you can try replacing it. If it’s still present after that, you can add sea foam, marvel mystery oil, or other cleaning additive to the oil. Go on a slightly aggressive (hard acceleration) drive to bring the engine the engine up to temp, then sit in your driveway and run the engine at 2000 RPM (or the max RPM if it’s limited) for a few minutes. You want the oil hot to help build pressure and work the cleaner through those passages.

If the code is still present after that, it’s unlikely anything except actuator and/or camshaft replacement will fix the problem.

 

Does this bolt hold on the cam gear for the timing a little nervous about removing.

Also does this require removing the valve cover and do I need to remove all 4 or is their a particular one that is causing the problem?

 

Was just reading about this code more should I only be concerned with the front exhaust oil control valve?

 

The image below is a cutaway of the cam and actuator set up. Item #2 & #3 is an assembly that you need to remove.

The code references the intake cam shaft on the front bank.

If you look just above the right side of the spool valve (#2) you can see the casing of the actuator/timing gear is fitted around the end of the camshaft (I don't know anything about editing images otherwise I'd of highlighted it for you). There are also alignment pins/keys between the cam and actuator (not in the drawing) - removing the oil control valve alone will not cause the actuator to just fall off the cam or allow the mechanical alignment of the actuator and camshaft to shift.

There's really not a great deal of tension on the chain when the engine isn't running, so practically speaking there's little reason to be concerned that the actuator/gear assembly will fall off the cam with the oil control valve removed.

That said, I did some digging and I think it would be beneficial for you to remove the valve cover. Once it is removed, you can take the tension off the camshaft and remove the oil control valve. There's no need to remove the chain or mess with the tensioners - the camshafts are designed with a hex molded into the end of the shaft near the actuator specifically for using a wrench to rotate them. All you need to do is rotate the camshaft slightly in one direction or the other (typically counter-clockwise) until you see the tension on the chain release (it will appear to go limp).

This will take the tension off the actuator/gear assembly and allow the oil control valve to be removed without worry of it coming off. I recommend breaking the oil control valve loose before relieving the tension. You may also have to rig up a way to hold the camshaft in place while you're cleaning the oil control valve. It depends on the position of the lobes - sometimes the cam will hold its position on its own, and sometimes the valve springs are pushing against the lobes.

1= Solenoid 2= Spool Valve 3= Oil Control Valve 4= Solenoid Pintle

 

I took the front valve cover off and found I rocker arm thrown off on cylinder 2 and one loose on cylinder 4 going to replace those first could that have thrown that code?

 

It’s possible. The actuator advances or retards cam timing using oil pressure and the speed of the camshaft can be affected by how much resistance there is from the valve springs. I’d say it’s certainly worth a try since you need to fix these problems anyway.

I’m surprised you didn’t have any misfire codes or hear unusual noises if one of them was completely off.

 

Still have the same code, had to put it back together last weekend and is running much better. Ordered a new oil control valve so I know that it is 100 percent when i put it in. Are you sure its the intake one? Also you wouldnt happen to know what size socket that is. I had nothing that was close to that size.

 

I can’t say for sure on the size, but if you remove the solenoid again you might be able to get a close measurement.

I double checked and and it is the exhaust cam, not the intake. The cam sensor on each bank reads both cams at the same time, so the cam sensor references the intake as bank 2 sensor 2 whereas the DTC defines the intake cam as bank 2 position 1. I apologize for the confusion - I misread the diagram I was looking at.

 

Thanks for the update I will let you know if it resolves the problem I appreciate your help.