[3rd Gen : 96-00]: Brake Time!
My 20-year-old minivan is due for new brakes. Due to financial constraints (why else would I drive a 20-year-old Voyager?) I'll probably be doing the work myself. Probably, but not certainly. Been a while (Bush's daddy was in office) since I last did my own brakes. Got a few questions:
- Pads and rotors are a given, and of course I'll be inspecting the brake hoses and other rubber parts while I have everything open. No signs of leaks anywhere and the brake fluid level has been steady. What else would you recommend that I rebuild or replace while I'm at it, and how strongly?
- Any particular brands/types of pads and parts that you would recommend to seek out or to avoid?
- What else should I be looking out for while I'm doing this?
- Any special tools, recommendations or hints that I need to keep in mind for this vehicle? I do have a copy of the service manual, but video links or similar would be welcomed.
My 20-year-old minivan is due for new brakes. Due to financial constraints (why else would I drive a 20-year-old Voyager?) I'll probably be doing the work myself. Probably, but not certainly. Been a while (Bush's daddy was in office) since I last did my own brakes. Got a few questions:
- Pads and rotors are a given, and of course I'll be inspecting the brake hoses and other rubber parts while I have everything open. No signs of leaks anywhere and the brake fluid level has been steady. What else would you recommend that I rebuild or replace while I'm at it, and how strongly?
- Any particular brands/types of pads and parts that you would recommend to seek out or to avoid?
- What else should I be looking out for while I'm doing this?
- Any special tools, recommendations or hints that I need to keep in mind for this vehicle? I do have a copy of the service manual, but video links or similar would be welcomed.
If the pins are seized, I recommend just replacing the caliper because even if you do break them free, cleaning the bores well enough to reuse probably won’t work out. The inside of the bore needs to be polished for proper operation and for as many times as I’ve tried to do it (personally and professionally) it’s never worked out over time. If you do replace the caliper, replace the hose as well - it’s just good practice.
I don’t know of any particular brands that have problems - you might just need to google that if no one else offers opinion. Brake parts MUST meet safety standards in order to be sold in the US so in theory, the cheap ones will work just as well as the expensive ones. If you’re getting ceramic pads, sand the edges of the pad to put a little chamfer on it - sometimes new ceramic pads can chip on the edges and it acts just like a squeal tab when this happens - sanding the edges helps prevent it.
Expect the rotors to be seized to the hubs - a 2 lb hammer will break them loose. Clean all the loose rust off the hub - apply anti seize if you want before installing the new rotors.
Finally - clean mounting bolts for the calipers and torque everything to spec. Brakes heat up fast and cool down slow and it’s the perfect way for bolts that aren’t properly torqued to come loose.






