My 2012 GC SXT doesn't like having the key put in the ignition, then turning the engine right away. I've found that I have to pause the key in the ignition at the 1/2 way position, to let the van go through the dash light-up process and let the dinging noises happen for a few seconds in order to reliably start the van in a normal manner. If I turn the ignition key quickly, without waiting for the chimes, it sounds like the starter doesn't engage with the engine, and the starter will just spin for as long as you turn the key (It is possible the engine could be cranking during this time, but I have not verified that it is or isn't).

Any guesses?

 

Are you hearing any grinding noises when this happens?

If the starter is freewheeling then either the drive gear isn’t extending out or it’s not properly engaging the flex plate.

The former is caused by a starter or battery fault. The latter is caused by a damaged flex plate or starter drive gear and will usually be accompanied by a grinding noise.

If leaving the key on for a few seconds allows the engine to crank, I suspect the starter isn’t getting enough current to extend the drive gear until the modules have powered up.

Begin with the battery- give it a complete charge and clean the connections if needed. Make sure the connections at the starter and the main ground are clean and tight. If all that checks out, pull the starter for testing.

 

I have a similar situation, although with mine if I do not wait for an extended time (30- 45 seconds) the van will attempt to start, runs rough, sounds as if it is hitting on about half of the cylinders. I quickly turn it off and wait awhile and it will start run smooth. Sometimes on the third or forth try, but If I am patient it will start on the second try.

I thought it may have a fuel pressure regulator valve leaking by, as I can hear the fuel pump running constantly. Therefor the fuel rail pressure may not be high enough to sustain smooth running until it has a chance to charge the fuel pressure..

I did (do) have battery issues, Interstate Battery from Costco, I have exchanged every year the last 4 years when winter temps drop to <20*F. I put a digital Volt Meter in the cabin that plugs into the power outlet. 18*F temp this morning and battery was 11.4 VDC . When morning temps are in the mid 20*F battery voltage will be about 11.7 VDC. When it warms up to mid 30*F morning temps the battery will be 12.2 VDC. I thought possibly under hood summer temps may be high enough to reduce battery performance, therefor my annual "no questions asked" battery exchange at Costco, I plan on a Costco run soon. I did have electrical issues that resulted in me cleaning all battery, alternator, ground connections and replacing the alternator a couple of years ago. But I do not feel as this could be a battery/voltage related problem. I may be wrong.

I guess I will try cleaning cable connections at battery, grounds, starter and alternator again, but I feel that is unrelated to the fuel pump running constantly false start issues.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Have you checked for codes? The check engine light doesn’t have to be on for codes to be stored.

Fuel pressure may be the issue but it would need to be tested first. Do you mean the fuel pump will run constantly with the key on, engine off or it will continue to run even after attempting to crank the engine?

 

Thanks Gumby,
I forgot to mention 2008 Grand Caravan SXT 3.8l

I did go back yesterday to reverify codes. Nothing new, I do have a code "P0404" Exhaust gas recirculation valve.
I purchased a recirculation valve sometime back, but suffered a bad concussion about six months ago, among other debilitating injuries, so am just now starting to attempt some repairs. (Not fun with a constant concussion headache).

I tried to rent a test gauge for the fuel rail, but it was already out, maybe this weekend.

The fuel pump runs constantly while the key is on, I guess, I can not hear the fuel pump, above ambient background noise, once the engine is started.
I did a "Fuel pump relay bypass" to eliminate excessive battery drain a couple of years ago. The fuel pump is now on an accessory fuse, (F7 I believe) so that it now shuts off when I open the door after turning the key to OFF, I listen for the fuel pump to shut off every time. I also listen for the fuel pump to start with ignition ON.

I did check for Parasitic drains again, Initially after hooking up my Fluke it will pull 2400MA until it charges capacitors or the TIPM cycles a relay, then it drops down to 3xx MA for awhile. Eventually settling out to 18MA. If I can find my DC amp clamp-on for the Fluke ( damn concussion headaches fog the memory ) I will be able to test amp draw without breaking the circuit.

I will get back with additional test results and info as I can.

Once again thanks for the input.

 

I’ll have to look at the particulars for your van but generally speaking, less than 25 milliamps is considered normal. How long are you waiting before checking it? It can take an hour or more for the draw to secede - the tests I’ve done on customer cars, most of them are at or below that within 45 minutes.

The P0404 could indicate the EGR valve is stuck open which will definitely cause rough idle and potentially hard starting depending how bad it is.

 

I'm starting to wonder if my van won't start normally because there is fuel pressure leak-down after the engine is shut off. The engine only starts normal if the key is only turned half way and let sit in the "On" position for a couple of seconds before turning it to the "Start" position.
Any thoughts?

 

I thought that a fuel pressure related problem might be possible in your situation, that is why I posted under your original post, hoping to further define your starting problems.
I plan to do some more troubleshooting on my van this weekend, If possible, to rent a "Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge Test kit" from AutoZone. I will post back what I find,
Only about three primary things could possibly be faulty.
Leaky fuel rail pressure sensor,,, easy fix.
Leaky fuel injectors,,, relatively easy fix.
Leaky fuel pressure regulator valve mounted on the fuel pump assembly,,, $$$ & Not easy for me to pull the fuel tank and then replace the fuel pump assembly,
I would look at putting an external fuel check valve if possible, to maintain the fuel rail pressure while shut off. It would need to be physically located close to the tank in order to minimize the volume that could leak down through the regulator valve.

I am just pulling this off the top of my head, if I knew the answers I would not be here seeking help. But with the aid and assistance of more knowledgeable people from this site, I am able to stumble through some of these fixes.
Any input from the forum members, greatly appreciated.