Hi guys,
I have gone through at least 3 resistors and every time after a couple of days or weeks of changing the resistor would burn out, and I could not even get it to work on high, which according to what I have read should work because it's a direct connection.
In any case, I read many posts and most of them point to changing the harness, blower and resistor, and hope that would fix the problem. but I took a bit of a different approach and did the following.

There are two connectors in the harness, one with two wires for the blower, which according to the wire color coding should be ground and positive, but when I checked with my multimeter they are both positive energy, I have never seen this before, but in any case that's what I got.
The other connector has 6 pins, the four pins from left to right with a view from the back of the connector, the first two sets are ground, and the last set is energy. I bridged the 1st column bottom pin to the black cable in the blower harness, and the first 3 positions work. If I bridge the second column bottom cable in the 6 pins connector to the same bottom blower connector, only the high position works.
Take a look at the yellow cable with the inline fuse.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AC...6NMv-YbkEc4Yp0
The picture is kind of unclear for the right two bales, green goes to top, black is bottom.

Can someone please take a look and see if this work around will cause any issues?
I do feel the cable get a little warm, but it hasn't gone beyond that. Just want to make sure this is a safe work around to put permanently?

 

If you can feel the wire getting warm, I very much doubt your re-wire job is a permanent fix, but more vehicle info is needed so I can get the right schematic. Did you put all the orange wires in there or was that from a previous owner?

1) Caravan or Grand Caravan and what’s the trim package?
2) Which engine?

Burning up resistors like that is a clear indication there’s far too much current being pulled. If you haven’t already, check that the blower motor fuse is the correct rating. There’s either an issue with the motor itself or a problem with the wiring.

 

Hi,
The orange wires are from a previous owner.

This is a Grand Caravan sxt 3.8L

I was meaning to check the current pulled from the motor, I believe that to be the problem as well. I will check those and let you know.

 

Ok - the orange wires are likely part of an aftermarket connector kit that was used to replace the OEM connector. At work we replace them quite a bit (on all makes) as overheating can melt the plastic and allow the contacts to short.

I think you need to remove any tape so you can see for sure which wire is hooked into which cavity. It’s possible the person that replaced it didn’t wire it correctly. If that’s the case, that’s probably why the resistors kept burning out - repair the wiring as needed.

Below you will find the wiring diagram for the resistor/control circuit and a pin out view of the 6 way connector. Note that the pin out view is with the locking tab on top and as if you’re looking at the connector face (unplugged). With the connector plugged into the resistor as in your photo, cavity #1 would be on the bottom left.

The cavities are assigned as follows (my phone doesn’t display location info but I’m guessing you are in the US - if not I included the export info too) -

1) Dark Blue/Gray - Not used domestically - (Export vehicles - rear blower high speed control)

2) Dark Blue/Gray - Blower high speed - domestic vehicles (Export vehicles - Dark Blue/White - M3 speed control)

3) Dark Blue/Violet - M2 speed control

4) Dark Blue - Fused power input (from fuse 10/blower relay in engine bay)

5) Dark Blue/Orange - M1 Speed control

6) Dark Blue/Brown - Low speed control

 

Thanks so much, I will have a look at it when I get a chance and report back.

 

Hi All,
I was able to test the blower fan to see how much energy it was drawing, and I don't see it over drawing. With my multimeter at the 20amp setting, it isololates between 11.20 to 11.30 on the highest setting, lower blower settings shows lower numbers.
So, I guess I can assume that means the blower is ok. What else should I check before ordering a new wire harness and a 4th reistor, I really would liket to get to the bottom of the problem, before throwing more money at it.

As a side note, the fuse in my work around my 20A fuse blew after a couple of days, so I replaced it with a 30A, which hasn't blown yet, but I noticed it got very hot, so I pulled it. I don't know if this had anything to do with it, but the spark plug coil pack went bad on one of the spark plugs. This is one of those packs that is used for all 6 cylinders/

 

Did you verify that the connector is wired correctly?

You’re using 20 and 30 amp fuses in your jumper (which, at this point, we’re not even sure exactly which 2 circuits you’re jumping), but in the wiring diagram, the blower fuse is 40A. Generally speaking, automotive fuses are rated for twice the expected current flow of the circuit, so you should be seeing closer to 20 amps on the draw test. It’s possible the lower rated fuses are causing a problem rather than solving it.

Do a draw test on the motor alone, independent of the control circuit. Remove it or run jumper wires to the battery (with a 40A fuse) and see what the motor draws without the controls and resistor.

Also pull the blower relay and check continuity between pin 87 and the black wire of the blower motor connector (see wiring diagram).