[2nd Gen : 91-95]: 94 Caravan Hood Light help!
#1
#3
Is it a mercury switch on the bulb socket? If so, you just need direct battery feed with a 10A fused lead in the circuit.
If it’s not a mercury switch, the original switch could be mounted in one of the fender channels or integrated to the hood latch. It wouldn’t be difficult to add your own switch if needed.
If it’s not a mercury switch, the original switch could be mounted in one of the fender channels or integrated to the hood latch. It wouldn’t be difficult to add your own switch if needed.
#4
Is it a mercury switch on the bulb socket? If so, you just need direct battery feed with a 10A fused lead in the circuit.
If it’s not a mercury switch, the original switch could be mounted in one of the fender channels or integrated to the hood latch. It wouldn’t be difficult to add your own switch if needed.
If it’s not a mercury switch, the original switch could be mounted in one of the fender channels or integrated to the hood latch. It wouldn’t be difficult to add your own switch if needed.
#5
There would have been some type of switch on it from the factory, so if it’s not a mercury switch in the bulb base, it would’ve been somewhere that the hood could actuate it directly as it opened/closed (typically around the perimeter) or wired into the hood latch. The schematic just shows that it was originally powered off the IOD fuse and the switch closed on the ground side when the light turned on (hood open). I haven’t found exact details on where the switch is supposed to be located but honestly I don’t think it’s worth the hassle of trying to figure it out - a PO could’ve removed it.
I wouldn’t bother trying to find a fused circuit to tap into either - adding your own switch is gonna require splicing wires anyway so you might as well add an inline fuse direct from the battery. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do it, but off the top of my head, here’s a list of supplies needed (available off the shelf at any parts store or from online vendors).
-momentary contact switch (no bigger than 3/8” mounting base) if you want it to turn on/off automatically as the hood is opened and closed) OR a rocker/toggle switch if you want manual control
-10A in line fused lead (I recommend a mini fuse type)
-14 or 16 gauge wire (length and color depends you - where you want the switch to mount and if you want to easily identify the power/ground wires)
-assortment of solder free terminals (heat shrink type are best) for connecting/splicing the wires
A good source for all of these is picowiring.com
I wouldn’t bother trying to find a fused circuit to tap into either - adding your own switch is gonna require splicing wires anyway so you might as well add an inline fuse direct from the battery. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do it, but off the top of my head, here’s a list of supplies needed (available off the shelf at any parts store or from online vendors).
-momentary contact switch (no bigger than 3/8” mounting base) if you want it to turn on/off automatically as the hood is opened and closed) OR a rocker/toggle switch if you want manual control
-10A in line fused lead (I recommend a mini fuse type)
-14 or 16 gauge wire (length and color depends you - where you want the switch to mount and if you want to easily identify the power/ground wires)
-assortment of solder free terminals (heat shrink type are best) for connecting/splicing the wires
A good source for all of these is picowiring.com
#6
There would have been some type of switch on it from the factory, so if it’s not a mercury switch in the bulb base, it would’ve been somewhere that the hood could actuate it directly as it opened/closed (typically around the perimeter) or wired into the hood latch. The schematic just shows that it was originally powered off the IOD fuse and the switch closed on the ground side when the light turned on (hood open). I haven’t found exact details on where the switch is supposed to be located but honestly I don’t think it’s worth the hassle of trying to figure it out - a PO could’ve removed it.
I wouldn’t bother trying to find a fused circuit to tap into either - adding your own switch is gonna require splicing wires anyway so you might as well add an inline fuse direct from the battery. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do it, but off the top of my head, here’s a list of supplies needed (available off the shelf at any parts store or from online vendors).
-momentary contact switch (no bigger than 3/8” mounting base) if you want it to turn on/off automatically as the hood is opened and closed) OR a rocker/toggle switch if you want manual control
-10A in line fused lead (I recommend a mini fuse type)
-14 or 16 gauge wire (length and color depends you - where you want the switch to mount and if you want to easily identify the power/ground wires)
-assortment of solder free terminals (heat shrink type are best) for connecting/splicing the wires
A good source for all of these is picowiring.com
I wouldn’t bother trying to find a fused circuit to tap into either - adding your own switch is gonna require splicing wires anyway so you might as well add an inline fuse direct from the battery. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do it, but off the top of my head, here’s a list of supplies needed (available off the shelf at any parts store or from online vendors).
-momentary contact switch (no bigger than 3/8” mounting base) if you want it to turn on/off automatically as the hood is opened and closed) OR a rocker/toggle switch if you want manual control
-10A in line fused lead (I recommend a mini fuse type)
-14 or 16 gauge wire (length and color depends you - where you want the switch to mount and if you want to easily identify the power/ground wires)
-assortment of solder free terminals (heat shrink type are best) for connecting/splicing the wires
A good source for all of these is picowiring.com
I just figured I would give you an update. I already had a rocker switch installed down by my fuse box where I had previously installed fog lights but being in a not so good neighborhood somebody broke them off at one point. I was able to just reuse this switch. I soldered together and heathshrunk some extra wire from where it was cut and ran it into the cabin through the hole with the hood release cable and onto this switch. As far as the power source goes for another terminal on the switch... This vehicle does not have any rear air conditioner / heating vents but I noticed an empty slot in the fuse block for one so I checked it and it did have a 12v source on it so I put a 10A mini fuse there and used it as the power source. All good to go for now. Thanks!