[5th Gen : 08+]: Throttle actuator light
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Throttle actuator light
History of issue:
3.3L Flex Fuel. Only have run regular 87 octane.
Light actuator light came on, checked codes. I don't remember the codes from this check but I remember the details. Excessively high voltage from Throttle, detecting high air flow at throttle system, low voltage from gas pedal, and another I don't remember.
Replaced the throttle unit.
Appeared to be fixed. Drove around to bring up to operating temp and issue came back.
Now P2173 is the only code. https://www.obd-codes.com/p2173 . I noticed a sound like air possibly from a vacuum hose. I checked the vacuum tubes while running and didn't see anything obvious. Sprayed water around the tube connections as well and didn't notice any change.
Replaced the MAP sensor.
Issue came back after getting to operating temp again.
Now:
I got some ideas but I don't want to have to replace but 1 last sensor to fix this.
Anyone have any thoughts?
3.3L Flex Fuel. Only have run regular 87 octane.
Light actuator light came on, checked codes. I don't remember the codes from this check but I remember the details. Excessively high voltage from Throttle, detecting high air flow at throttle system, low voltage from gas pedal, and another I don't remember.
Replaced the throttle unit.
Appeared to be fixed. Drove around to bring up to operating temp and issue came back.
Now P2173 is the only code. https://www.obd-codes.com/p2173 . I noticed a sound like air possibly from a vacuum hose. I checked the vacuum tubes while running and didn't see anything obvious. Sprayed water around the tube connections as well and didn't notice any change.
Replaced the MAP sensor.
Issue came back after getting to operating temp again.
Now:
I got some ideas but I don't want to have to replace but 1 last sensor to fix this.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
For anyone who runs into this issue:
I figured out the issue. It was the PCV valve.
The reason the water trick didn't work earlier was air was air was moving around because the rubber gasket/seal of the PCV valve which is located inside the leave that the valve fits inside of that is attached to the valve cover and the hose and not leaking in from around the hose.
Replacing the PCV valve:
This part is so cheap that if you haven't replaced it yet and you have over 60k, replace it every 60k or earlier is even better. Mine was $15 at O'Reily.
Once the rubber gasket gets hard, around the 60k time frame, it gets really and I cannot understate this enough really hard to remove. My van has just shy of 150k on it. I tried every trick I could find. Even putting a bolt in valve and using a vise-grips to hold it in place. In my case that tore the top of the valve off, yes I wrote that right. In my case I got "lucky" at this point, trying to pry it out I broke a small 1/4" triangle off of the sleeve on accident but that actually worked out perfect in my case. It allowed me access to break up the now plastic'd rubber seal which in turn could then be pulled out. That break was small enough it was still covered by the vacuum hose. The new one slipped right in with very little effort.
Put it all back together and no more vacuum/air sound when the engine is running and we drove it around for a day now with no issues, staying at operating temperature every drive.
Run down:
Best I can figure for how this all occurred is as follows. The seal around the PCV valve finally gave way allow almost unrestricted airflow into the intake manifold through the engine which is coming from the other side of the engine from the air filter box. When that happened the Throttle Actuator Assembly, aka Throttle Body Unit, tried to compensate and couldn't throwing the error codes and putting the vehicle into "limp" mode. I'm leaving the replaced Throttle unit and MAP sensor in because by technicality I can't return them but either way they're new, and I'm holding onto the old parts just in case. I personally think the Throttle unit broke, because with the old one in I couldn't get the high voltage from throttle assembly to go away, as a result of the PCV valve seal breaking but it's possible it didn't. I highly doubt, in hind-sight, that the MAP sensor was bad but that was only slightly more expensive than the PCV valve so it's staying in. Also I have to pick up the semi C shaped PCV valve to intake vacuum tube from the Chrysler dealer, only way to get it and mine was only $20. Original one is starting to crack but still working for the moment.
My hope is that this helps at lest someone save potentially a days time of diagnosing and repair.
I figured out the issue. It was the PCV valve.
The reason the water trick didn't work earlier was air was air was moving around because the rubber gasket/seal of the PCV valve which is located inside the leave that the valve fits inside of that is attached to the valve cover and the hose and not leaking in from around the hose.
Replacing the PCV valve:
This part is so cheap that if you haven't replaced it yet and you have over 60k, replace it every 60k or earlier is even better. Mine was $15 at O'Reily.
Once the rubber gasket gets hard, around the 60k time frame, it gets really and I cannot understate this enough really hard to remove. My van has just shy of 150k on it. I tried every trick I could find. Even putting a bolt in valve and using a vise-grips to hold it in place. In my case that tore the top of the valve off, yes I wrote that right. In my case I got "lucky" at this point, trying to pry it out I broke a small 1/4" triangle off of the sleeve on accident but that actually worked out perfect in my case. It allowed me access to break up the now plastic'd rubber seal which in turn could then be pulled out. That break was small enough it was still covered by the vacuum hose. The new one slipped right in with very little effort.
Put it all back together and no more vacuum/air sound when the engine is running and we drove it around for a day now with no issues, staying at operating temperature every drive.
Run down:
Best I can figure for how this all occurred is as follows. The seal around the PCV valve finally gave way allow almost unrestricted airflow into the intake manifold through the engine which is coming from the other side of the engine from the air filter box. When that happened the Throttle Actuator Assembly, aka Throttle Body Unit, tried to compensate and couldn't throwing the error codes and putting the vehicle into "limp" mode. I'm leaving the replaced Throttle unit and MAP sensor in because by technicality I can't return them but either way they're new, and I'm holding onto the old parts just in case. I personally think the Throttle unit broke, because with the old one in I couldn't get the high voltage from throttle assembly to go away, as a result of the PCV valve seal breaking but it's possible it didn't. I highly doubt, in hind-sight, that the MAP sensor was bad but that was only slightly more expensive than the PCV valve so it's staying in. Also I have to pick up the semi C shaped PCV valve to intake vacuum tube from the Chrysler dealer, only way to get it and mine was only $20. Original one is starting to crack but still working for the moment.
My hope is that this helps at lest someone save potentially a days time of diagnosing and repair.