Hey guys! I have a 2013 Grand Caravan.

The front blower has stopped working, rear is 100% a-ok.

I checked all the fuses in the board, all good. Tested the relay by swapping the front and rear relays (the number on top is the same) and relay seems to be working fine.

There is no 12v signal being sent to the blower resistor (and so of course no 12v going to the blower fan either). I tested the blower fan, and that is 100% working fine when you manually apply 12v. But there is no 12v being sent to the resistor or blower.

Tried a replacement used panel in the dash board (i.e. the heater control panel) and the problem remained and was identical.

Before the fan stopped working I noted it was intermittent, and also the relay would click on and off continuously (like a bad connection). But now it does not click at all when the ignotion is swicthed on, and the relay is itself is fine (I have swapped the front and rear relays around and both are fine and activate the rear blower no problem.

No idea why, or what to try next???

My car does have two codes that have been on there a while P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large) and P0430 Catalytic Efficiency Below Theshold Bank 2. The P0455 was previously a (small) leak but now changed to (large). The small leak and other code has been there for months (engine light on, reduced power on accelleration, I'm getting around to sorting it but keep getting other issues, like this one!!!). BUT, back to the point, I don't think those codes would switch off the front blower whilst allowing the rear blower to still work??? So I think that is completely unrelated?

So, apart from that I have no clue and any recommendations on what to test next much appreciated!!!

 

Did you ever resolve this issue? I am having the same issue with 2011. I have done everything you have done, including having a mechanic look at it. They were stumped and I am aggravated. Mine will still blow occasionally. The rear side works fine with either the master control or the rear controls. Thankfully I can get some AC blowing through there when it's hot out.

 

Yes I managed to fix it in the end after a LOT of testing. It was actually the TIPM. Bought a replacement used on ebay and fixed it immediately. Hope this is of some help!

 

I am leaning towards that as well. I am the second owner of this van. I purchased it froma friend of mine who ran a Beer distribution company. It was serviced well and it great shape. When I poked around the TIPM I noticed a thick gauged red wire that was defiantly not factory. The truck won/t run without it. Someone ran a jumper at some point. I asked my friend if he could ask his mechanic about it, but it's been so many years and they had 20 of these vans coming and going he can't recall if he did it, why he did it, or if someone else did it.

At least I get cold air blowing when I am on the highway and the rear blower still works. I'll probably continue to live with it.

 

The extra wire is probably for the fuel pump. It's a common fault and you can buy a cable that fixes the issue. Probably what you gave installed.
A new TIPM should fix that too.

 

I am having the same problem now with my 2013 SXT. All of a sudden, with no type of problems or noises or strange behavior, my Front Blower would not run.
The fan works great at top speed when separated from the system harness, and no voltage reading at the connector.
Swapped the Blower Power Control Module with a know good working one, and still no power to blower connector.
Ran a scanner test & all actuators working all the buttons on both side work as intended (rear Def, front Def, etc. all level change as intended so doors & everything else working ok & no Trouble codes come up on scanner.
I am now gearing up to start tracing out all the wires between the blower connector & the source, which is a job no one wants to do if it can be avoided! It is hard enough trying to get hands & fingers up into the tight spots to disconnect or back probe the connectors to test for voltage!
There MUST be some type of TECH out here that has some hints or clues as to the source of the trouble.
I am hoping to find out or eliminate the Controller Head Switches mounted in the dash stack before tracing any individual lines for problems, but not exactly sure how to do that since I cannot seem to find any specs on what voltage on which connectors anywhere along the connectors, & I am having trouble understanding the wiring diagrams I found on all data since they don't provide a diagram key showing what are switches & connectors, plus the diagrams are split over multiple pages & the wires change colors in areas added to the fact that I can't seem to read small print anymore even with a pair of cheaters on.

ANY advice, hints or help of any type would be greatly appreciated, especially after reading about all the horror stories out here about being rack over the coals by so many "Dealers" who mainly seem to be just throwing parts at the problems until they finally find one that fixes it!
I have never looked for or expected Anything for Nothing & I don't mind paying people for doing a job for me, but I absolutely HATE being ripped off !

 

Yes I managed to fix it in the end after a LOT of testing. It was actually the TIPM. Bought a replacement used on ebay and fixed it immediately. Hope this is of some help!

 

Hidid you reprogramm new ebay TIPM ?Thanks

 

Yes, the new TIPM was reset during installation by connecting the positive and negative battery cables together for 15 minutes (hard reset). Once reset, the TIPM pulls the vehicle information from the ECU in the car.