what engine ?

 

hope this helps

HEATER CORE
REMOVAL
[*]Drain coolant system.[*]Remove left side lower column cover.[*]Remove steering column assembly. Refer to Steering for service procedure.[*]Remove ABS module, bracket and wiring ABS MODULE[*]Remove I/P to body harness interconnect and bracket Interconnect And Bracket[*]Remove lower silencer boot at base of steering shaft Lower Silencer Boot [*]Pinch off heater lines under the hood.[*]Remove heater core cover. Insert a small amount of towels under the heater core tubes. Remove heater core plate and tubes Heater Core Plate And Tubes[*]Depress heater core retaining clips Depress Clips[*]Pull up on accelerator pedal and slide heater core past Accelerator Pedal[*]Depress brake pedal Brake Pedal and remove heater core from HVAC housing.[/ol]
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. Install screws to retain heater core in housing. Replace heater core tube inlet O-rings. Tighten heater core tube retaining plate to 3 ± 1 N·m (27 ± 9 in. lbs.) torque

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DONE!!!!!! Went to the dealership and got the part ($240.00 Canadian). Part s guy said one of his mechanics said to take the cowl off and remove the windshield wiper transmission that runs the entire length of the windshield. With that removed, old one came out fine, new one in and I saved 2.5 ($92.00/ hour labour) hours of labour charges plus parts. Got to work with my son next to me.....priceless. Mind you this is ona 2001 Grand Caravan. Don't know if the same hints would work with earlier models. BUT....a few months ago the volume restricing valve in the same system sprung a leak and had to be replaced. The new tube and hose assembly by-passes it. Do I still need the valve on this model? I know buddies with 2002 and 2003 and the VRV isn't visible in theirs.

 

Here is another, maybe a bit easier way to do it in case anybody else wants to know:

FYI - My Model is 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan EX. It has 101,500 Miles on it now.[/align][/align]This was a tough project for me too, and i took a few years of automotive technology in high school. (And I have a good collection of tools..lol)[/align][/align]This job was pretty expensive for what it was. The Coolant was $30 and the Part (the new aluminum tubing and 4 short rubber hoses at the top) was $150.00 at my neighborhood dodge dealership (this is a dealer only part).[/align][/align]I will never buy a Chysler/Dodge again! I've had many other problems with car!! The side motorized sliding doors went out a year ago and along with them - the back hatch as well! And thats just to name a few of the issues![/align][/align][/align][/align]Ok This is how to do the job properly: (then i will tell you what I did)[/align][/align][/align]1. Mark the location of the hood with a sharpie so you can put it back on properly when your done.[/align][/align]2. Take off the hood, Wipers, winsheild squirters, plastic covering, and wiper housing - you will have to unbolt this (Yes i know, this will take some time, maybe up to a couple of hours, there is alot to take off)[/align][/align]3. Now that all that stuff is out of the way, thisshould bethe space you need. (if you still need more space you will have to take off the intake manafold, becareful not to damage the gasket)[/align][/align]4. Now you can remove & replace the heater tubing! (Dont forget to label the four hoses, cause if you mix them up, you will change the coolant flow and you wont have any heat in the wintertime!!)[/align][/align]5. Reconnect the new tubing up top, then under the car.[/align][/align]6. Put everything back on that you took off. Line up the hood carefully so it will be aligned and close properly.[/align][/align]7. Fill the coolant, turn on the car, let it warm up so it can 'burp itself' sorta speak, then add more coolant if neceassary.[/align][/align]Now your done!![/align][/align][/align][/align]Now this is what I did: (cause I though this part was a rip off, and I knew this would work)[/align][/align][/align]1. Take off only the hood. (It's a real tight squeeze, but you should be able to get in there now)[/align][/align]2.Mark the connections of the four hoses & Remove the tubing[/align][/align]3. Cut both the send and recieving lineso about six inches remains.[/align][/align]4. Sand off the ends where you cut it and make them extremely smooth.[/align][/align]5. Go to the auto parts store and buy the same sized rubber hose that is used on the ends and some clamps.[/align][/align]6. Loop the ends where you made the cut and sanded, and be sure to use the clamps.[/align][/align]7. Re-Connect the 4 rubber hoses.[/align][/align]8. You are done and saved yourself about 3 extra hours, $130.00 and from taking off all the extra stuff.[/align][/align][/align]Now, you have bi-passed the rear heater and it is inoporative, but the front heater and rear AC still works like normal. The only problem with doing it this way is that you still have a steel peice in there and thats what caused this problem in the first place.. (However this repair should last the rest of the life of the car if you used a good quality rubber hose)[/align][/align]Darn those idiots forusing steel tubing, what did they think was going to happen?? Steel rusts quite easily ya know?[/align][/align][/align][/align][/align]hope this helps[/align]

 

Oh sorry, I forgot - My Caravan has the 3.8L V-6 (The biggest engine you could have got)

 

I recently replaced this heater hose assembly on my 97 Voyager. It is possible. Why they call it a hose assembly when it is mostly pipe I don't understand but that's ok, I'm telling you it can be done. I have the 3.3 liter V6 engine

Recommended tools: Shop Manuel, cable operated clamp pliers, 3/8 inch torque wrench, 2-jaw puller, and of course regular set of metric sockets, extensions, and wrenches.

1) Drain the cooling system

2) Remove the air filter box and duct from the throttle body

3) remove the windshield wiper assembly. Refer to a shop manual for details. When removing the wiper arms use the 2 jaw puller. You could easily spend over an hour instead of 5 mins trying to get these arms off without one.

4) remove serpentine belt and alternator

5) Disconnect the throttle linkage.

6) carefully disconnect electrical connecters and vacuum lines from air plunem and remove the plunem. There is no need to unbolt the EGR valve unless you plan on replacing it too.

7) remove the 4 bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold (soak them in penetrating oil first)

8) remove the bar that is under where the alternator was. It is about 6 inches long and has a nut on one end and a bolt on the other. This made all the difference on clearance when working on my van. Also unbolt the clamp under the van for the power steering line on the suspension cradle.

9) disconnect the heater hoses. 2 are just to the right of the brake booster going into the fire wall, 2 are above the transmission, under where the throttle body was previously located, and 2 are under the van just behind the front passenger wheel.

10) remove the nut holding the heater hose assembly to the firewall. There is a second attaching point under the van behind the front passenger wheel that appears to come from inside the van. I was not able to access it after pulling the carpet and padding back due to the sound deadening material being fused to the floor panels. Pry the heater hose assembly off of this screw if you cannot access it from inside.

11) pull the heater hose assembly up through the engine compartment.

12) Reassemble in reverse. make sure to secure the lower end of the pipe somehow. force a nut onto the end of the screw coming through the floor board or secure it tightly with zip ties.

I hope you find this help full. Please refer to a shop manual for torque specifications and details for removing various parts. Keep in mind that I'm not a mechanic, I just don't see the point in paying somebody else an outrageous amount of money to take something apart when I can figure it out on my own.

 

I'm not a professional mechanic and I took the easy way out. Mine initially rotted out under the passenger's seat so I just spliced a piece of heater hose in.
Fast forward a couple of years and it was in for something else and the mechanic who I totally trust said that the entire hose assembly was rotting out.
I believe he removed the wiper tub to get access to the back of the engine but don't quote me on that.

 

I found the part for $79.89 at RockAuto.com. The part is a DORMAN Part # 626301. You'd have to pay shipping, but I figure it's still cheaper than buying the damn thing at the dealership.