So how do you go about finding a shop that Dyno's? I've looked in the phone book and I'm guessing you have to call to ask? I haven't seen any and I've been looking for a minute. I live near Tacoma Wa.

Thanks

 

I found 3 goodlocal places to dyno throughfriends and online forums. All the placesare "performance shops". One deals mainlyin pontiacs (TA andGTOs), another is aMustang shop and the other is non denominational.

It's fun to pull into the Mustang or LS1 shop with the Dodge and see the expressions on their faces. It's all about money and it'sall green when it comes tomaking a dollar [sm=smiley20.gif]they all love the business.

One of them I found when I was shopping around for N20 refills. Most performance shops that fill N20 also have a dyno.

 

Sorry had to laugh at that one...

Take your time, talk to buddies, possibly a search for "performance shops" on google may help.

Don't be intimidated by the process. Drive up go in and ask about getting your car dynoed, how much and how many pulls. Some will be eager to help you out some will be more laid back ** yawn **.

You should see the dyno when you pull up or when walking into the office to inquire about getting dynoed.

Most likely you will pull your car up to the garage entrance where the dyno is and you get out and hand them the keys… they will do the rest. Some will ask for the keys at the counter and they do the rest, you just watch. If you unsure just ask if they want the keys or if you should pull up, that will get the ball rolling.

 

another horsepower and torque measurement option
created by tech guru's who started the MegaSquirt open source fuel injection computer project:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/dyno.html

because this java calculator uses the info you gather when the vehicle is getting real airflows through the radiator and into the air induction system it has the potential to be MORE ACCURATE than paying to have a rear wheel dyno done when the vehicle is standing still.

 

Nice information. I highlighted the work “potential� because it’s as accurate as the numbers inputted.

I don’t believe it’s going to be more accurate due to the following reasons:
1 -Each driver’s skill will be different.
2- Ability to calculate Density Altitude correctly for each run.
3- Ability to guess the weight of the car accurately for each run.

Use these methods, both dyno and the dyno calculator, as a wind gauge not absolute, their nothing more than statistics and they can be skewed.

 

Hey another Washingtonian I thought I was the only one on hear I don't know of any places in WA but there's a place up north near Sea-Tac called Dyno Lab they sale the equipment to test out your HP. I tried calling them a couple times they didn't pick up maybe you'll have better luck reaching them.
http://www.dynolab.com/

I tried calling the Dodge dealership and they didn't know where you can get dyno testing done.

 

Morfoot
I heard there's a Dyno place in Seattle that can check the HP for RWD and a spot in Oregon I think in the Portland area that you can check for AWD. Haven't figured out the name yet as soon as I find the name I'll post it.

 

Four things to watch out for at commercial rear wheel dynos:

1. Because so many vehicles get tested it is easy for the wide range oxygen sensor at the dyno to be inaccurate because some bozo had LL aircraft gasoline in his tank and lied to the dyno operator about what fuel he had. If you ask the dyno operator when he last checked the calibration of his O2 sensor and he is not willing to test it quickly using an oxy-acet torch or propane burner....be skeptical. One of the important reasons to go to a dyno is to find out the air to fuel ratio at full throttle accurately.

2. Many dyno operators don't understand how the nylon strap tension they put on the rear wheels affects the rolling resistance of the tires and therefore the amount of hp 'eaten up' by the drivetrain inefficiency.

3. Many dyno operators don't know how to test for slip at the rear wheels

4. The best way to test an automatic transmission vehicle is to apply an electrical jumper to lockup the torque converter clutch during the run. This makes the trans more like a manual trans and eliminates the factor of how hot your ATF is. If your operator doesn't know how to do this, it is another sign he is poorly trainned.