front end shake
#1
10-02-2013, 09:51 AM
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front end shake
Hello all newbie here and would appreciate any help. I have an 07 charger that has come down with a very pronounced shake at any speed when I hit the brakes. The car shakes, the steering wheel shakes its noisy and when I hit the brake harder it basically disappears. The wobble is so bad it seems worse then what a warped rotor could produce. And it is definitely coming from the left front. I jacked the car up and you can turn the outside tie rod and move the tension strut. I tried looking this part up at a local car part store and they don't have it. It seems like the bushing is torn. Thanks
Last edited by jjensen44; 10-02-2013 at 10:02 AM. Reason: added issue
#2
10-06-2013, 01:17 PM
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Had the same issue with my '06 Chrysler 300 at 40K Miles. Right front would vibrate badly under braking at highway speeds. Found play in the tie rod end. This was before I had learned about the issues with the Tension strut inserts.
Replaced with NAPA (TRW?) steel rod ends (factory used Teflon? inserts). You will likely need to cut the stud off the tie rod end if it is worn. It will spin when you try to remove the castle nut.
Right front continued to have issues with "hopping" under braking. Replaced the Tension struts with Dorman (appear to be the same design used on the SRT8's) and haven't had an issue in 20K Miles.
If you go after the tension struts, pull the caliper/rotor/backing plate to give yourself access the the strut knuckle on the lower arm. A ball joint press is helpful, but not absolutely required if you pull the backing plate.
The front attachment "may" have a indexed (grooved) bolt for setting the Castor angle. Make sure you remove the nut (don't rotate the bolt) when removing. My 300 didn't have the grooved bolt.
The torque specs for my 300 were:
Tie rod end: 63 Ft-lbs
Tension strut ball joint: 50 Ft-lbs + 90 degrees
Tension strut to subframe: 130 Ft-lbs.
I left the Tension strut to subframe bolts loose and put the car on ramps to simulate ride height. The was the only way I could get 130 Ft-lbs on the nuts.
This is a relatively easy job if you have air tools and a lift. Not at all easy if you do not. Absolutely no shame in taking this one into a pro. You'll need to take the car in for an alignment either way.
Replaced with NAPA (TRW?) steel rod ends (factory used Teflon? inserts). You will likely need to cut the stud off the tie rod end if it is worn. It will spin when you try to remove the castle nut.
Right front continued to have issues with "hopping" under braking. Replaced the Tension struts with Dorman (appear to be the same design used on the SRT8's) and haven't had an issue in 20K Miles.
If you go after the tension struts, pull the caliper/rotor/backing plate to give yourself access the the strut knuckle on the lower arm. A ball joint press is helpful, but not absolutely required if you pull the backing plate.
The front attachment "may" have a indexed (grooved) bolt for setting the Castor angle. Make sure you remove the nut (don't rotate the bolt) when removing. My 300 didn't have the grooved bolt.
The torque specs for my 300 were:
Tie rod end: 63 Ft-lbs
Tension strut ball joint: 50 Ft-lbs + 90 degrees
Tension strut to subframe: 130 Ft-lbs.
I left the Tension strut to subframe bolts loose and put the car on ramps to simulate ride height. The was the only way I could get 130 Ft-lbs on the nuts.
This is a relatively easy job if you have air tools and a lift. Not at all easy if you do not. Absolutely no shame in taking this one into a pro. You'll need to take the car in for an alignment either way.