Ok, so this is going to be a very long story but the details matter.

I have a 2013 Charger SXT AWD. About 80K on it. About 6 months back I started to have a shimmy/wobble that would occur with light braking. Usually it was only noticeable when slowing down from 65+ mph. I was under the impression that the problem occurred when I hit the brakes and I believe that is still true but also am not sure if just letting my foot off the gas also lead to the steering wheel wobble.

In the beginning it was more of a slight fast shimmy. As it got worse over time it would vary from the light shimmy to a wobble.

I did hit a curb fairly hard at one point but I recall that occurred after this problem had already started.

about a month ago I went to buy new tires. I thought maybe I had a wheel that wasn't true or possibly a bad tire. Turned out that I had cracking defects in all four tires (Falken's). Replaced with Pirelli Strada's. Touring tire with very high treadwear over 700. Problem didn't go away. No problems were found with the wheels. Also were RF Balanced. Took to the dealer. First visit, they tell me I have a loose right tie rod end so I replaced both. Had to do an alignment and was told that my rotors were warped. They didn't actually check the rotors just stated this based on symptoms. I leave and the wobble is not only still there but now does it while driving down the road between 50-60 mph. Still does it with braking also. Took it back the next day. Still won't look at or check the rotors (pads and rotors were put on in June 2018, slotted rotors high end ceramic pads). They dismount all the new tires, re-mount and rebalance again road forced. Dealer now claims that one tire has a small defect or flat spot, etc. Can't quite say what it is and say that it did still balance correctly. They say that the tire is more of a truck/SUV/CUV tire. I said Chrysler chose a tire size that is more common on those vehicles so for all season's options are limited. They also said that the high treadwear rating could be causing the problem and again most emphasis was on replacing the rotors. How does this make sense when I pulled it out of your garage after you worked on it and what you did somehow made the problem worse. So I was reluctant, but after talking to some people they said it was possible that when driving a caliper piston may be hanging a little or retracting slower, etc.

I replaced all rotors (drilled/slotted), pads, calipers, bled brakes replaced brake hoses. I also took the tires back and upgraded from the factory 19's to new 20's with General G Max tires. Got the new wheels and tires before the brakes. Didn't change the problem at all. Did all the brake work, took for a test drive (car was cold) and it seemed the shimmy/wobble was gone. Until the ride home. I got a few miles from home and noticed a slight shimmy at about 55 mph. It was very subtle so I tried to ignore it. Next day, verified that the problem is still there driving and braking under same speeds as before. It was less severe but definitely still there.

I called the dealer told them what I did and changed out. Told me to bring it back. Spent 3 1/2 hours working on it but wouldn't document that they were able to conclusively duplicate the problem but the advisor did admit it to me verbally. Said they didn't know what the problem was and the Tech's gave up on it.

At my second visit I expressed concern over the car needing a camber kit as it's not adjustable on this car and especially since the Tie Rod ends were replaced getting it back to factory specs is going to require the kit. It doesn't appear that they even tried to shift the cradle so I am curious as to how they got the readings they gave me on the alignment. It also developed a more severe pull to the right and at times when braking the wheel would want to turn right. This has been intermittent. The advisor acted as though he didn't know what the camber kit was and they never use them.

During the 3rd appointment they supposedly verified that there were no suspension parts loose or damaged performed another alignment (no print out provided) and swapped the front tires side to side. Once again, I drove out and the car drove worse than when I drove it in. I immediately called Dodge who called the dealer, put me in touch with a different service advisor and they want me to bring it back again. One thing that has changed although I'm not convinced it is gone for good yet is that the shaking when braking has gone away. But while driving it is worse and the speeds at which it is happening is now from 45-75. The car also pulls even harder to the right and bumps seem to be much harsher. Sometimes, I have noticed that it also feels loose. Almost like a sidewind hitting me except there is no wind.

I know I need a camber kit but am worried about other suspension components that may be damaged or something in the steering. This has been going on long enough and severe enough that it certainly seems reasonable to expect some additional wear or damage to something.

Any suggestions or advice are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

 

post the alignment printout

a shake that transmits into the steering wheel is an issue with the front...if it occurs when braking...its brake related. if it occurs when not braking its most likely issue is tire or rim related.

a pull can be alignment or tire related....most pulls on mac strut cars are tire related....cross rotate the tires and see if the pull changes.

 

If you have a severe enough warp to a rotor, it will show up at speed without the brake applied. If you have access to a dial run out gauge, see what the run out is. You may just need to pay a little attention to the front rotors. Either that or quit playing "Shimmy shimmy coco bop" on the radio. The car may be dancing to it.