2011 SE Charger won't rev past 2k
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Registered User
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2011 SE Charger won't rev past 2k
Hi Forum,
Looking for some advice/guidance on an issue with my charger. I've taken the car to two shops now & neither of them have been able to figure out what the issue is. The check engine light is on & the symptoms are as follow - when driving under 30 mph the car runs smoothly but when attempting to accelerate up to highway speeds past 30mph the RPM's will not go above 2K (even when flooring the gas pedal) and the car crawls up to speed. I can eventually get up to highway speeds but there is just no acceleration in the car.
The first mechanic fixed an issue with the cam shaft & timing mechanisms saying there was a timing difference in the cylinders. This fixed the rattling but not the acceleration issue & the check engine light was still on. He tossed it up to an electrical problem and sent me over to the PepBoys across the street saying they had the right tools. Well, they did not and they said tough luck you should replace the whole electrical system for a few grand.
Check Engine light report:
Most likely solution: Power Train System - replace Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Power Train System codes
- P0113 : IAT Sensor 1 circuit High - Bank 1
Secondary DTCs
- P0349 : Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent - Bank 2 Sensor 1
- P2638 : Torque Management Feedback Signal "A" Range/Performance
- U0002 : CAN C Bus Off Performance
- P0153 : O2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
- P000D : Bank 2 Camshaft 2 Position Slow Response
Additional Codes
- C121C-00 : Torque Request Signal Denied
- U0002-88 : CAN C Bus Off Performance - Bus Off
Hope this helps.
I am seeking:
1. Any ideas on what this problem could be?
2. Are there any mechanics in the area that specialized in something of this sort that I can bring my car to?
3. I am willing to sell the car for cheap to get it off my hands so let me know if you are interested.
Thanks gents.
Looking for some advice/guidance on an issue with my charger. I've taken the car to two shops now & neither of them have been able to figure out what the issue is. The check engine light is on & the symptoms are as follow - when driving under 30 mph the car runs smoothly but when attempting to accelerate up to highway speeds past 30mph the RPM's will not go above 2K (even when flooring the gas pedal) and the car crawls up to speed. I can eventually get up to highway speeds but there is just no acceleration in the car.
The first mechanic fixed an issue with the cam shaft & timing mechanisms saying there was a timing difference in the cylinders. This fixed the rattling but not the acceleration issue & the check engine light was still on. He tossed it up to an electrical problem and sent me over to the PepBoys across the street saying they had the right tools. Well, they did not and they said tough luck you should replace the whole electrical system for a few grand.
Check Engine light report:
Most likely solution: Power Train System - replace Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Power Train System codes
- P0113 : IAT Sensor 1 circuit High - Bank 1
Secondary DTCs
- P0349 : Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent - Bank 2 Sensor 1
- P2638 : Torque Management Feedback Signal "A" Range/Performance
- U0002 : CAN C Bus Off Performance
- P0153 : O2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
- P000D : Bank 2 Camshaft 2 Position Slow Response
Additional Codes
- C121C-00 : Torque Request Signal Denied
- U0002-88 : CAN C Bus Off Performance - Bus Off
Hope this helps.
I am seeking:
1. Any ideas on what this problem could be?
2. Are there any mechanics in the area that specialized in something of this sort that I can bring my car to?
3. I am willing to sell the car for cheap to get it off my hands so let me know if you are interested.
Thanks gents.
Last edited by Erick25; Oct 6, 2023 at 10:30 AM.
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 55
From: Iowa
I don't see any location information for you so it is tough to suggest if there are any competent shops in "the area." But since you mention your check engine light is on there will be diagnostic codes. I'm surprised the Pep Boys was apparently unable to check for diagnostic codes. Is there another chain auto parts store in the area that offers the service for free?
If you are handy and have the tools, you could check for exhaust restrictions by removing the front oxygen sensors and see if that improves the ability to accelerate. If you don't have the tools, then an exhaust shop would be the good choice, but I'd first try to get the diagnostic codes read and post those code numbers back here.
-Rod
If you are handy and have the tools, you could check for exhaust restrictions by removing the front oxygen sensors and see if that improves the ability to accelerate. If you don't have the tools, then an exhaust shop would be the good choice, but I'd first try to get the diagnostic codes read and post those code numbers back here.
-Rod
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 3
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I don't see any location information for you so it is tough to suggest if there are any competent shops in "the area." But since you mention your check engine light is on there will be diagnostic codes. I'm surprised the Pep Boys was apparently unable to check for diagnostic codes. Is there another chain auto parts store in the area that offers the service for free?
If you are handy and have the tools, you could check for exhaust restrictions by removing the front oxygen sensors and see if that improves the ability to accelerate. If you don't have the tools, then an exhaust shop would be the good choice, but I'd first try to get the diagnostic codes read and post those code numbers back here.
-Rod
If you are handy and have the tools, you could check for exhaust restrictions by removing the front oxygen sensors and see if that improves the ability to accelerate. If you don't have the tools, then an exhaust shop would be the good choice, but I'd first try to get the diagnostic codes read and post those code numbers back here.
-Rod
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Hey Rod,
Here's the report I got from AutoZone.
Most likely solution: Power Train System - replace Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Power Train System codes
- P0113 : IAT Sensor 1 circuit High - Bank 1
Secondary DTCs
- P0349 : Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent - Bank 2 Sensor 1
- P2638 : Torque Management Feedback Signal "A" Range/Performance
- U0002 : CAN C Bus Off Performance
- P0153 : O2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
- P000D : Bank 2 Camshaft 2 Position Slow Response
Additional Codes
- C121C-00 : Torque Request Signal Denied
- U0002-88 : CAN C Bus Off Performance - Bus Off
Hope this helps.
Here's the report I got from AutoZone.
Most likely solution: Power Train System - replace Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Power Train System codes
- P0113 : IAT Sensor 1 circuit High - Bank 1
Secondary DTCs
- P0349 : Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent - Bank 2 Sensor 1
- P2638 : Torque Management Feedback Signal "A" Range/Performance
- U0002 : CAN C Bus Off Performance
- P0153 : O2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
- P000D : Bank 2 Camshaft 2 Position Slow Response
Additional Codes
- C121C-00 : Torque Request Signal Denied
- U0002-88 : CAN C Bus Off Performance - Bus Off
Hope this helps.
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 55
From: Iowa
I don't think the IAT sensor could cause the engine to not want to rev past 2000 RPMs, that seems more likely to be the issue leading to the CMP Sensor diagnostic codes. If it were my car, I'd be looking into the Camshaft Position sensor issue before worrying about the other codes.
I don't have anything to offer in the area of reputable shops in the Atlanta area, sorry.
-Rod
I don't have anything to offer in the area of reputable shops in the Atlanta area, sorry.
-Rod
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Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Same issue but only temporary
I have the same issue with the 2k prm on highway but mine only does it temporarily lasting about 10 seconds and then I got full power again. I have a few codes pertaining to low compression and misfire in cylinder 2 and some others I forgot. But I have yet to see anyone name a temporary limp mode in the thread and wanted to get someones take on the issue. (Side note: if I keep my car in 4th above 2k rpms it doesn't do it but when I go in 5th it will do it sometimes and on my way to work it does it in the same exact spot every morning)
