TRIED TO TRADE IN DAYTONA FOR SRT8
Red, do you really think those three mods added 55 HP? I wish they had. I think the marketing people like to wish those numbers they feed us are accurate, but I think they are just trying to sell us stuff. My CAI says 12HP. My chip says 24. My exhuast says nothing since it's mad that I only put 1/2 of it on, but Magnaflow was boasting 15 or so. Well, that's 51 or 401 HP. Gee, I don't know Red if I can believe that can I???
By the way, anyone here about this one??? http://www.carjunky.com/accessories/
MN
[IMG]local://upfiles/28588/8C16DE2F57D94F10A400F839667FF3B0.jpg[/IMG]
Hey guys, for only $905 it's yours!!
By the way, anyone here about this one??? http://www.carjunky.com/accessories/
MN
[IMG]local://upfiles/28588/8C16DE2F57D94F10A400F839667FF3B0.jpg[/IMG]
Hey guys, for only $905 it's yours!!
ORIGINAL: mnboy
Red, do you really think those three mods added 55 HP? I wish they had. I think the marketing people like to wish those numbers they feed us are accurate, but I think they are just trying to sell us stuff. My CAI says 12HP. My chip says 24. My exhuast says nothing since it's mad that I only put 1/2 of it on, but Magnaflow was boasting 15 or so. Well, that's 51 or 401 HP. Gee, I don't know Red if I can believe that can I???
By the way, anyone here about this one??? http://www.carjunky.com/accessories/
MN
[IMG]local://upfiles/28588/8C16DE2F57D94F10A400F839667FF3B0.jpg[/IMG]
Hey guys, for only $905 it's yours!!
Red, do you really think those three mods added 55 HP? I wish they had. I think the marketing people like to wish those numbers they feed us are accurate, but I think they are just trying to sell us stuff. My CAI says 12HP. My chip says 24. My exhuast says nothing since it's mad that I only put 1/2 of it on, but Magnaflow was boasting 15 or so. Well, that's 51 or 401 HP. Gee, I don't know Red if I can believe that can I???
By the way, anyone here about this one??? http://www.carjunky.com/accessories/
MN
[IMG]local://upfiles/28588/8C16DE2F57D94F10A400F839667FF3B0.jpg[/IMG]
Hey guys, for only $905 it's yours!!
We can dream.
To keep this in perspective, at 4000 lb +, these cars are no lightweights. It takes more power to accelerate this car more quickly than a typical 3200 to 3500 lb car. This isn't a linear function but exponential. To make the math easy, it would take 4 times the energy to accelerate this car at the same rate as a 2000 lb car. For the difference in power from when I first drive it off the lot until now, my seat of the pants dyno would give this about a 15% to 20% increase in power which kinda matches those numbers if you believe the 350hp advertised factory rating. My car was real responsive to those mods, especially the exhaust. I didn't do the headers and high flow cats since they weren't available (that I was aware of at the time) but dumping the DCX pipes was money well invested. Since I already had the CAI on the car when I did the exhaust, I'm supposing that I got a higher than expected gain with the exhaust because it allowed the engine to take full advantage of the intake. At the risk of oversimplification, engines are basically air pumps. The faster you can push the air out, the faster you can take it in. This results in greater pumping efficiency (HP!!!). Some of these mods will give you more power together than if you did each one individually. If you increase both ends of the system - yee haw.
Finally got my Superchips tuner last Thursday. Had to wait until Friday to put it in since I teach on Thursday nights. (I wasn't worth a darn at work on Friday). Sat morning I hammered the throttle to jump on the freeway, the tranny shifted down to first and zinged right up to the rev limiter. A little disconcerting when the engine cut out until I realized what had happened. Cool!!! Bumped the speed limiter up to 160 and haven't had that problem since. I have the power set to 91 octane, the transmission to sport mode and bumped the speed limiter. I figured this was a good place to start tuning. The car is definitely more responsive. You can feel the front end lift if you stomp on it in rolling in second (autostick mode). The transmission now seems to be better matched to the engine power curve which helps the responsiveness a lot. The exhaust sounds sweeter (smoother) and I think my hairline is coming back (not really but 3 out of 4 ain't bad). I need to monitor my speed more closely now because I'll be doing 60+ on the main drag through town and not realizing it (speed limit is 40). All that and I seemed to have gained a couple of mpg to boot. Life doesn't get any better than that.
When I quit playing, I plan on having the car dyno'd just to see what it really has. There used to be a web site from one of the technical universities where you would do a time to speed run (30, 40, 50 . . .), plug in some info (weight, gear ratios, weather conditions, etc) and it would calculate a power curve for you. I guess the person who maintained the site graduated cause I haven't been able to find it for a few years now. It would have been nice to have the Superchip time to speed/distance diagnostics when I first got the car. Then I would have more real data to base my estimates on. I guess I could put everything back to stock - NOT!!
OK, I'll admit it. I'm having way too much fun with this car.
Redbeard
P.S. Just did a giggle search for "horsepower calculator" and tried a couple of sites using some of the times and speeds posted in this forum. They seem to come up with around 400 hp at the flywheel for what it's worth.
To keep this in perspective, at 4000 lb +, these cars are no lightweights. It takes more power to accelerate this car more quickly than a typical 3200 to 3500 lb car. This isn't a linear function but exponential. To make the math easy, it would take 4 times the energy to accelerate this car at the same rate as a 2000 lb car. For the difference in power from when I first drive it off the lot until now, my seat of the pants dyno would give this about a 15% to 20% increase in power which kinda matches those numbers if you believe the 350hp advertised factory rating. My car was real responsive to those mods, especially the exhaust. I didn't do the headers and high flow cats since they weren't available (that I was aware of at the time) but dumping the DCX pipes was money well invested. Since I already had the CAI on the car when I did the exhaust, I'm supposing that I got a higher than expected gain with the exhaust because it allowed the engine to take full advantage of the intake. At the risk of oversimplification, engines are basically air pumps. The faster you can push the air out, the faster you can take it in. This results in greater pumping efficiency (HP!!!). Some of these mods will give you more power together than if you did each one individually. If you increase both ends of the system - yee haw.
Finally got my Superchips tuner last Thursday. Had to wait until Friday to put it in since I teach on Thursday nights. (I wasn't worth a darn at work on Friday). Sat morning I hammered the throttle to jump on the freeway, the tranny shifted down to first and zinged right up to the rev limiter. A little disconcerting when the engine cut out until I realized what had happened. Cool!!! Bumped the speed limiter up to 160 and haven't had that problem since. I have the power set to 91 octane, the transmission to sport mode and bumped the speed limiter. I figured this was a good place to start tuning. The car is definitely more responsive. You can feel the front end lift if you stomp on it in rolling in second (autostick mode). The transmission now seems to be better matched to the engine power curve which helps the responsiveness a lot. The exhaust sounds sweeter (smoother) and I think my hairline is coming back (not really but 3 out of 4 ain't bad). I need to monitor my speed more closely now because I'll be doing 60+ on the main drag through town and not realizing it (speed limit is 40). All that and I seemed to have gained a couple of mpg to boot. Life doesn't get any better than that.
When I quit playing, I plan on having the car dyno'd just to see what it really has. There used to be a web site from one of the technical universities where you would do a time to speed run (30, 40, 50 . . .), plug in some info (weight, gear ratios, weather conditions, etc) and it would calculate a power curve for you. I guess the person who maintained the site graduated cause I haven't been able to find it for a few years now. It would have been nice to have the Superchip time to speed/distance diagnostics when I first got the car. Then I would have more real data to base my estimates on. I guess I could put everything back to stock - NOT!!
OK, I'll admit it. I'm having way too much fun with this car.
Redbeard
P.S. Just did a giggle search for "horsepower calculator" and tried a couple of sites using some of the times and speeds posted in this forum. They seem to come up with around 400 hp at the flywheel for what it's worth.
OK, I goofed up here.[:@] I went back and did the math and the force needed to accelerate two masses is a direct ratio to their masses. 4000 car takes twice as much power to accelerate to speed as a 2000 car, not four times. My bad folks, sorry to mislead you.
Using the formula: estimated elapsed time=5.825 times the cube root of (weight divided by horsepower), a 4100 lb car with 400 HP at the flywheel should turn about a 13.93 quarter mile ET allowing for a 75% drive line efficiency. If the drive line is 80% efficient, it should turn about a 13.63 ET. This assumes a flat track, a set of standardized environmental conditions (temp, humidity, atmospheric pressure, etc.) and a perfect reaction time. From what I've seen posted, this seems very do-able with "minor" bolt on mods - no superchargers, nitrous or replacing engine components.
Class dismissed. I'm going to try to take my Superchips tuner out this weekend to play and see what numbers I can come up with.
Redbeard
Using the formula: estimated elapsed time=5.825 times the cube root of (weight divided by horsepower), a 4100 lb car with 400 HP at the flywheel should turn about a 13.93 quarter mile ET allowing for a 75% drive line efficiency. If the drive line is 80% efficient, it should turn about a 13.63 ET. This assumes a flat track, a set of standardized environmental conditions (temp, humidity, atmospheric pressure, etc.) and a perfect reaction time. From what I've seen posted, this seems very do-able with "minor" bolt on mods - no superchargers, nitrous or replacing engine components.
Class dismissed. I'm going to try to take my Superchips tuner out this weekend to play and see what numbers I can come up with.
Redbeard


