Clayin
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Allen TX
RE: Clayin
Yes, if it's painted clay it.
FYI... I read a post that said to use car shampoo (soap) and water in a spray bottle as a substitute for Mothers instant detailer. You'll probably find yourself running shy of that instant detailer before the clay gives out.
Due to other chores and it being so damn hot I didn't clay last weekend, hoping to do it this weekend.
FYI... I read a post that said to use car shampoo (soap) and water in a spray bottle as a substitute for Mothers instant detailer. You'll probably find yourself running shy of that instant detailer before the clay gives out.
Due to other chores and it being so damn hot I didn't clay last weekend, hoping to do it this weekend.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24
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RE: Clayin
Clay removes all of the crap that gets on/in the clearcoat. A major contributor to that is the ride from the plant to the dealership on the flexivan railcars. Rail dust can get embedded in the clearcoat (especially susceptible when the paint is fresh/still a little soft) and lead to early aging of the paint. White vehicles seem to suffer most from this, since the rail dust left on the finish will oxidize/rust and show quicker on a white paint job than other colors.
Clay lifts the particles off of the finish without damaging the paint. It's time consuming and tedious, but the results are worth it.
Zaino's website was the first place I looked when a friend told me about claying his GT.
The process is done in the shade (not in direct sunlight). Start by washing the car with dishwashing soap (strips the wax off of the finish), followed by removing any remaining bugs/tar/sap on the finish that the washing didn't remove. Then you clay the finish by applying a dressing (usually with a spray bottle) to keep the clay gliding over the finish whithout sticking to it - Do a small area at a time (2 sq ft). Don't drop the clay!.....if it hits the ground, it's done and you need a new bar. After the entire car (all painted surfaces) are clayed, wash the car again, dry it with a soft - lint-free towel, and finish the job by waxing the car. When complete, the towel will glide on the waxed paint, and the car will look like a million bucks!
There are a lot of products out there that do a very good job when the directions are followed. The clay bar will do a number of treatments if you don't drop it. You WILL need a bottle of dressing for each treatment though. It does go quick!
It took me a whole day to do my wife's R/T, but it was worth it. The finish is smooth as glass, and the paint looks wet all the time.
I'll be doing it every spring and fall on both of our cars.
Clay lifts the particles off of the finish without damaging the paint. It's time consuming and tedious, but the results are worth it.
Zaino's website was the first place I looked when a friend told me about claying his GT.
The process is done in the shade (not in direct sunlight). Start by washing the car with dishwashing soap (strips the wax off of the finish), followed by removing any remaining bugs/tar/sap on the finish that the washing didn't remove. Then you clay the finish by applying a dressing (usually with a spray bottle) to keep the clay gliding over the finish whithout sticking to it - Do a small area at a time (2 sq ft). Don't drop the clay!.....if it hits the ground, it's done and you need a new bar. After the entire car (all painted surfaces) are clayed, wash the car again, dry it with a soft - lint-free towel, and finish the job by waxing the car. When complete, the towel will glide on the waxed paint, and the car will look like a million bucks!
There are a lot of products out there that do a very good job when the directions are followed. The clay bar will do a number of treatments if you don't drop it. You WILL need a bottle of dressing for each treatment though. It does go quick!
It took me a whole day to do my wife's R/T, but it was worth it. The finish is smooth as glass, and the paint looks wet all the time.
I'll be doing it every spring and fall on both of our cars.
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Joined: May 2006
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Joined: Jun 2006
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RE: Clayin
Good response ChallengerDad.
Mothers recommends using the clay three times and the tossing it. I found there is just about enough detailer and wax to do that. You can buy the detailer spray and wax separately. I use the detailer spray between waxings and it does a good job of keeping things sparkley. I found the detailer spray works good by itself on the plastic light lens and the chrome that might get scratched using the clay.
The first couple of times will take a while but if you keep it up it will go faster. I do mine every 3 months. After three years, it now takes me "only" about 3 hours to do the wife's Chrysler (not including the initial wash and dry). Definitely worth the work!!
The first time you clay, try this. Do a section. Then glide your fingertips lightly over that section and a section that you haven't treated yet. Feel the love!!!!
Redbeard
Mothers recommends using the clay three times and the tossing it. I found there is just about enough detailer and wax to do that. You can buy the detailer spray and wax separately. I use the detailer spray between waxings and it does a good job of keeping things sparkley. I found the detailer spray works good by itself on the plastic light lens and the chrome that might get scratched using the clay.
The first couple of times will take a while but if you keep it up it will go faster. I do mine every 3 months. After three years, it now takes me "only" about 3 hours to do the wife's Chrysler (not including the initial wash and dry). Definitely worth the work!!
The first time you clay, try this. Do a section. Then glide your fingertips lightly over that section and a section that you haven't treated yet. Feel the love!!!!
Redbeard
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
RE: Clayin
Zaino's site had a test to see the need/difference regarding claying a finish. It states that after the car is washed (to remove surface contaminants), put your hand in a baggie/plastic sandwich bag and rub the finish lightly. If the baggie "drags" or catches on the finish, there are contaminants that need to be removed. Likewise, the reverse is true to test the clay results - use another fresh baggie in the same way after the clay treatment has been done and feel the difference.
I'm a "loyalist" to products that work well for me. Like Castrol GTX in my motors, I've always used Maguires finishing products for the exterior. I'm not advocating or condemming any specific products. I just don't believe in "fixing what 'aint broken", and those products have always worked well for me. I use Maguires car wash, clay & dressing, and premium paste wax on all of our vehicles.
As far as a "total treatment" is concerned, after I do the clay/wax treatment on the painted surfaces, I thoroughly clean with Windex and then apply RainX to the headlight covers, tail lights, side-view mirrors, and all of the glass (exterior) on the cabin including the sunroof. I also add the RainX Windshield Washer Fluid Treatment to the washer fluid resevoir. Here in the northeast, winters are particularly tough on cars, and the glass takes a beating with road salt and abraisives. RainX is a polymer that bonds to the glass surface. You have to make sure the surfaces are absolutely clean before applying it. It really helps reduce the pitting and scratching from the everyday "sandblasting" the glass gets from normal driving, not to mention it cool to watch the rain/slush bead up and blow off of the glass. I haven't had to replace wiper blades nearly as often using RainX either.
I'm a "loyalist" to products that work well for me. Like Castrol GTX in my motors, I've always used Maguires finishing products for the exterior. I'm not advocating or condemming any specific products. I just don't believe in "fixing what 'aint broken", and those products have always worked well for me. I use Maguires car wash, clay & dressing, and premium paste wax on all of our vehicles.
As far as a "total treatment" is concerned, after I do the clay/wax treatment on the painted surfaces, I thoroughly clean with Windex and then apply RainX to the headlight covers, tail lights, side-view mirrors, and all of the glass (exterior) on the cabin including the sunroof. I also add the RainX Windshield Washer Fluid Treatment to the washer fluid resevoir. Here in the northeast, winters are particularly tough on cars, and the glass takes a beating with road salt and abraisives. RainX is a polymer that bonds to the glass surface. You have to make sure the surfaces are absolutely clean before applying it. It really helps reduce the pitting and scratching from the everyday "sandblasting" the glass gets from normal driving, not to mention it cool to watch the rain/slush bead up and blow off of the glass. I haven't had to replace wiper blades nearly as often using RainX either.