If anyone cares to take their time to review this CAM install PDF please do so. I have a couple small things to add but it's close to being finished.

Let me know if you find anything obviously wrong or something that needs to be changed.

 

Looks pretty complete to me. Of course, all I can relate to was when I built my old 360 (still on engine stand - brand new). Does the timing chain cover bottom seal up against the oil pan? If so, I didn't see anything about resealing it there. Put lots of oil on the timing change? before buttoning up that cover. What about antiseize on the harmonic balancer before slipping it on and pulling it in with the crank bolt?

How much do you have left? This is a pretty exciting project. Am looking forward to some "debriefing" when its done and tried out.

dave

 

Wow, thanks for the quick reply.

I have anti seize at the bottom under the Torque Spec Notes and was debating how much I should put under the reassembly... if anything.

Yes the timing chain cover bottom seals up against the oil pan. These engines valve covers/Water pump/Timing Chain cover have rubber seals... Take-em off and put them back on to your hearts content, what a bargain.

The bottom of the chain (on the crank sprocket) dips into the oil pan. Prior to putting on the valve cover I turned it over several times by hand to insure the rods were seated properly. That should have oiled the chain plenty.

I hope the inserted graphics on the front fascia removal help, without pics it's difficult.

She's running great, took a road trip last weekend about 1 hour away and got 24.5 MPG with a little playing along the way. In town it's getting 17.5 MPG (again with a little playing around). If I horse around it averages 16 MPG. I'm hoping to hit a 1/8 mile track this weekend to see what she does and will get a few dyno runs mid November.

Thanks again Dave...
Randall

 

Sounds great!!! It is quite a job. Do the valve lifters have guide plates? Did you have any problems with any of them wanting to slide back down while you were fishing the cam in?

I need to sell my 74 Scamp, along with the new engine, tranny, rearend - oh the list goes on and on. Then, maybe, some more upgrades to the Charger .

dave

 

I'll refine the doc a little; add some re-assembly things.

The OEM lifters did have guide plates. None w/the Beehive Springs. I got the rods in today so I'll give it a few more weeks then will crack the valve covers open to take a look to see if there is any wear and install the rods (in the right holes... LOL).

The lifters held fine when the cam came out and in, no issues.

The (valve, water pump, timing chain) covers and seals are very cool. There's a channel that the rubber seals go into. Some come out, like the timing chain cover, when you take it apart. It's just a matter of pushing it back into the channel and walla ready to go, quite slick. The oil pan can be taken off without the gasket coming off (it stays attached to the block). If you to take off the pan and pull the gasket (which also has the windage tray attached) you have to replace it. Luckily in my exploration of the lower end I didn't have to pull the gasket off.

 

I beleive that it in a nut shell. But being an old GM man do you need to pump up the lifters since they might bleed down like the GM'S do.

 

Not sure to tell the truth. I hadn’t read anything about pumping them up. It was a bit noisy the first time it fired up until oil was flowing throughout the valve train again.

I have to go back and add up the bolts in the water pump and timing chain cover, I believe that’s the only details missing on disassembly.

As mentioned earlier, it will include some assembly instructions. Like filling the radiator, I got a fitting to put into the block to bleed air (I don’t think it’s necessary but I followed the book, for the best part)

 

Here's a pic of the timing chain gasket/seal.


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