[sm=nxsmile.gif]Well not really but getting close to "Got NX"

I started the install of the ZEX kit (82177) today. The main parts of the kit are the 10lb bottle, management unit and assorted hoses/fittings/bolts/switches. I also picked up a “racers tuning kit” (82001) that includes a blow down valve, bottle gauge, purge valve and heater.

The other day I put the gauge on the bottle and started to fit the blow down valve on it and found the fitting on the neck wasn’t right. I gave ZEX support a call after one transfer and listening to on-hold music for 40 minutes I spoke to a tech. The tech’s words were “We just had a meeting about this issue”. They gave me two options: 1. Send the bottle back for them to swap out the bottle neck. 2. They would ship me another bottle neck (the whole valve assembly) for me to swap out. I choose to have them ship me the valve, it should arrive by Wednesday next week.

Enough babble, On to the fun…

Round 1:
Everyone said 2 hours install, not unless you’ve done one before. I put in 2.5 hours today and I’m half way through.

Here’s what I’ve done: Mounted the bottle in the trunk, ran the line from the bottle to the engine compartment, mounted the management unit, mounted the nozzle into the CAI and hooked up 3 of 4 lines (nitrous and gas).

Mounting the bottle in the trunk took most the time. Here’s an outline of that test.

- I started blocking the tires and lifting the cars rear-end and placed it on jack stands.
- Took out the trunk floor carpet/pad (this thing is roughly 1.5" thick where I ended up mounting the bottle)
- Pondered mounting options and checked access to different areas underneath the car.
- Made a pattern out of cardboard that was the length/width of the bottle on the mounting brackets. Each bracket has two bolt holes which were put into the pattern.
- Used the pattern to mark all the hole locations and then drilled. I measured and used the pattern on the carpet/pad to make holes in it for the bolts.
- Due to the thickness of the carpet/pad thing I used 1.5" steal bolt spacers to shim between the body and mounting brackets.

Nitrous line was run on the driver’s side along the fuel line. A 9/16" hole was drilled in the trunk floor just in front of the bottle (right above the rear sway bar on the driver’s side) for the nitrous line’s access to the trunk. That worked out perfect.

Management unit is mounted on the driver’s side cross member by the master cylinder.

Nozzle mounting was fun. Drilled a 9/16 hole in the CAIattached thebulk head and screwed the nozzle into the bulk head. On the CAI starting from the filter to the intake, inthis order: O2 sensor (<= extended the wires), crank vent andnozzle. the nozzle is probably 10" away from the intake.

Round 2 tomorrow: Wire it up, program the activation switch (management unit), install the gas (fuel) delivery line, pressure up the system check for leaks, SuperChips re-tune down to 87 octane and test it out.

I know [sm=ttiwwp.gif]
will follow tomorrow with those

 

Wait what? Retune it down to 87 octane? So you're going to be using 87 octane with a nitrous kit?

 

Reason being w/nitrous you want to avoid lean conditions & possible detonation (KABOOM). Timing should be retard not advanced. ZEX recommends, from stock settings: no timing change w/75 shot, 2 degree retard for 100 shot, 4 degree retard for 125 shot.

The octane setting in the SuperChip flashpaq advances the timing: i.e. 91 > 87 > stock.

FYI... to date, for whatever reason SuperChips has chosennot to disclosed how much the timing is changed for each setting.

On a dyno a few weeks ago the dynajet indicated the car was lean so I’m playing it safe as I can with the nitrous install.

 

I don't know anything about those chips, but I do know if you use nitrous you need higher octane to avoid detonation.

 

Here are a couple pics.

I'm at the point where I need to tap into the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) or the Accelerator Position Switch wire. There’s debate as to which is best to tap for the management unit, some have installed a gas peddle switch. I'm waiting for a call from a local that is running the same setup so I don’t go off track here [&:]

dario - yes 92 octane is recommended, I'm running 93. That is one part of the equation. BTW... The SuperChip Flashpaq is a programmer that flashes (programs) the cars computer chip.

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[sm=nxsmile.gif]SPRAY IT SPRAY IT[sm=badbadbad.gif][sm=gears.gif]Hold on !!!!!! So is the pedal mounted for use at WOT only Mango?

 

The kit has a management unit that taps the TPS (that’s in the second picture in post 5 mounted to the cross member driver’s side). The management unit monitors the TPS, when the throttle body is closed it reads .5 volts, when it's opened fully there's 4.5 volts.

Some found HAL was interacting and changing the voltage when at WOT. Not good because you train the management unit by pressing a learn button and holding the throttle open for 10 seconds so itknows the current voltageat WOT... until HAL changes it [:@]

One person opted to install a third party switch behind the gas peddle, it isn’t part of the kit. It is a WOT switch.

Some have taped the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) switch because it performs the same function as TPS but HAL doesn’t monitor or change its voltage.

A little research revealed the following about the TPS and APP switches:

APP - Black 6 way. Located on the gas peddle.
Circuit Function
F856 20YL/PK(GAS) 5 VOLT SUPPLY
K29 20WT/BR(GAS) APPS NO. 2 SIGNAL
K400 20BR/VT(GAS) APPS NO. 2 RETURN
K167 20BR/YL(GAS) APPS NO. 1 RETURN
K23 20BR/WT(GAS) APPS NO. 1 SIGNAL
F855 20PK/YL(GAS) 5 VOLT SUPPLY

TPS - Black 6 way. Located on the throttle body.
K22 18BR/OR TP SENSOR NO. 1 SIGNAL
F855 18PK/YL 5 VOLT SUPPLY
K124 18DB/GY ETC MOTOR (+)
K122 18BR/DG TP SENSOR NO. 2 SIGNAL
K126 18DB/LG ETC MOTOR (-)
K922 18BR/DB TP SENSOR RETURN

Here are more pics of the install... All I need is info on that TPS wire hookup and then it's time to play.


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I finally took out thevoltage meter, took off the CAI and operated the throttle manually while probing the wires. The TPS wire hooks upto Brown/Orange. <edit> Specifically - K22 18BR/OR TP SENSOR NO. 1 SIGNAL (see post 7 above)

Programmed the management unit and pressured up the system, everything looks good.

The X broughtkiddo back and it was gettingdark so I'm decided not to juice her up this evening, I'll take her for a test run next week.

 

I saw the pics of the CAI on the LX forums nice job.You still got the other hood ?

 

Are you talking the RAMAir intake?

Yep, got the RAMAir that vents to the OEM intake,RAMAir vents to RAMAir intake (on the car still) & the OEM hood.A hood for every room and a intake for every hood <=my new motto